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19 September 2010
Paris to Epernay - 155 kilometres
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| Royal Engineers Memorial |
The little town of La Ferté-sous-Jouarre is our first target on the way to Epernay and took its name from a now-gone 10th-century fortress and has a twin community called Jouarre. You can't tell where one ends and the other begins. 3km south of La Ferté-sous-Jouarre is a 12th-century Benedictine abbey. Those interested in medieval history will appreciate the documents referring to the Royal Abbey of Jouarre as well as the stones in the Merovingian crypt, which evoke the 7th century. There's also a collection of prehistoric artifacts, remnants of the Roman occupation, and sculptural fragments. Each of these monuments is a medieval treasure.
There was vicious combat during WW1 in the area involving British trrops and there is a significant memorial in La Ferté-sous-Jouarre
On to Epernay where it is said "
Drinking Champagne in Epernay is like listening to Mozart in Salzburg".
Drinking Champagne in Epernay is like listening to Mozart in Salzburg".Epernay in the Department of Marne has a strong Roman/Celtic influence and lies at the heart of the world's most prestigious vineyards.
It is surrounded by 20,000 hectares of vineyards whilst underneath lie 200 million bottles of champagne ageing in 120 kilometres of cellars carved out of the chalk soil over hundreds of years.
The most famous champagne producers are among the many grand houses and mansions lining the Avenue de Champagne allowing Epernay to justify its claim to the coveted title of the ‘Capital of Champagne’.
Is there anywhere better to discover, understand and learn to love the tiny bubbles that are synonymous with joy and happiness.
We accept the responsibility of investigating the produce of the region and reporting our findings. It may not be the ideal method of re-hydration after our first 155 kilometres in the saddle but it is a relatively easy day tomorrow.
Epernay - Bezannes (Champagne Ardenne TGV station) – Berne (Switzerland)
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| Champagne Ardenne TGV station |
Having largely worked out the jet lag yesterday and having forensically investigated the products that have made Epernay famous, a fairly light day is on today's schedule.
We have a short ride of 37 kilometres to the North to Champagne Ardenne TGV Station
The history of the region goes back to 500 BC when it was settled by the Gauls. This area was then called lower Belgium. However, many of the towns have names that are actually of Celtic origin.
From here we split in two with 2 of us joining Phil in the van while the rest of us board the TGV for the trip to tonights destination, Berne, Switzerland.
Berne, the Capital of Switzerland, has retained its historic features perhaps more successfully than any other in the world. In 1983 the old town of Bern has been entered in the list of UNESCO Cultural World Heritage Sites and thanks to its 6 kilometres of arcades - the locals refer to them as 'Lauben' - boasts on of the longest weather-sheltered shopping promenades in Europe. Berne is a medieval city founded in 1191, on and around the River Aare
With its stately sandstone buildings, historical towers and 11 magnificent fountains, Berne is one the most impressive examples of medieval town architecture in Europe. Over the centuries, the townscape with its sandstone facades, narrow streets and historic towers is unique has been preserved virtually intact. The medieval air of this city with its many fountains, sandstone facades, narrow streets and historic towers is unique.
The boutiques, bars and cabaret stages of the old town, some of which are located in vaulted cellars, and the small street cafes will hopefully be visited by us.
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| Paul Klee Museum |
The Zentrum Paul Klee situated on the outskirts of the city houses the most comprehensive collection of works by the artist Paul Klee. The Albert Einstein House bears testimony to the physics genius' stay in Bern at the start of the 20th century. With the History Museum, Art Museum, Swiss Alpine Museum and Communication Museum Bern offers a very varied range of exhibitions. We will see the The Houses of Parliament (Bundeshaus) on arrival as it rises above the city just a stone's throw away from the railway station.
The Botanical Gardens are also located along the River Aare, as is the Dählhölzli Zoo and the old Matte district. Bern and bears, the cities heraldic beast, are inseparable.
21 September 2010
Berne to Zweisimmen to Chateau d'Oex to Gruyeres – 135 kilometres
Having discovered Berne, it is time to get on the bike and put the legs back to some serious work however the country we are travelling through will inevitably distract from any pain.
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 Zweiswimmen |
We leave Berne by taking the path along the Aare River to Thun before linking with the N6 to Spiez and the N11 to Zweiswimmen, Gstaad.
Zweisimmen is the starting point of the Montreux – Bernese Oberland – rail line, which travels to Montreux on Lake Geneva. Zweisimmen lies in a wide valley floor and is one of the ten villages which constitutes the Gstaad-Saanenland region. The Rinderberg cableway leads up directly from the village centre to the largest section of the “Gstaad Mountain Rides”.
From there it is on to Chateau d'Oex and Gruyeres via the N12.
Thanks to its favourable micro-climate, Château-d'Oex has developed into a hot-air ballooning metropolis.
But the older traditions too have been retained: accordingly, the much-loved Alpine cheese of Etivaz is still made over an open wood fire. There are also many chalets dating back a hundred years that bear testimony to the folk art of the region. The peaceful scenery of the Gruyère region, with the Lake of Gruyère – one of the finest artificial lakes in Switzerland – is home to the black and white Fribourg cows which provide the milk for the strongly flavoured Gruyère cheese.
In the middle of this picture postcard scenery, nestling between the slopes of the Moléson and the Dent du Chamois, rises to the picture-book little medieval traffic-free little town of Gruyères with its castle, surrounded by a fortified wall. 
Inside the 13th century castle is a museum covering eight centuries of the architecture, history and culture of the region. In the second, smaller castle in Gruyères, St. Germain, is the HR Giger museum. It was Giger who designed the horrific fantasy figures for the Hollywood film "Alien". The museum houses the artist's most important pictures and sculptures from 1960 to the present day, and there is also an HR Giger bar.  |
| Cailler Chocolate Factory |
An important part in the picturesque overall scene in the little town is played by the several restaurants serving specialities from the Gruyère region: fondue, raclette and, especially, desserts made with the excellent Gruyère double cream. One will surely be put to the test by us.
In the modern show cheesery at Gruyères and in the traditional alpine dairy in Moléson-Dorf the tasty Gruyère cheese is made. And to round off the tour of culinary delights is the Cailler chocolate factory in nearby Broc.
22 September 2010
Gruyères to St Gingolph – 60 Kilometres
We leave the cheese and chocolate of Gruyères behind us this morning heading out to what for some of us will be a pilgrimage as we ride “down from Montreuz on the Lake Geneva shoreline”. Yes, we will be bringing the iconic song from the 1970’s to life on this day of discovery.
Our route takes us through Bulle and Montreuz and onto St Gindolph.
Bulle is the administrative heart of this region of Switzerland and a traditional trading centre and meeting place of days past.
Montreux is nestled on the north east shore in a sheltered Lake Geneva bay, while surrounded by vineyards and against the breathtaking backdrop of snow-covered Alps.
The famous Montreux Jazz Festival, which takes place in June/July and features concerts on a variety of stages and parks.
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| Freddie |
Music and film personalities are attracted to the area and notably Charlie Chaplin and Freddie Mercury are two of many famous people to live or to have lived on the Vaud Riviera.
And we all know about the exploits of the Frank Zappa fan who set off the flare gun and burnt the old Montreuz casino to the ground therefore spawning the Deep Purple hit and the only guitar riff many of us can play.
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| The new Casina (post 1975) |
And music continues to have a strong influence today as the home of Mountain Studios, the recording studio used by several artists.
"Bonzo's Montreux" by Led Zeppelin is named after the city where the drums session of John Bonham was recorded in 1976. In 1978, the band Queen bought the studio. It was then sold to Queen producer David Richards.
In 2002 the Mountain Studios was converted into a bar as part of a complete renovation of the studio. Montreux was also the subject of the 1995 Queen single A Winter's Tale on the album Made in Heaven, one of Freddie's last songs before his death on November 24, 1991. The album cover features the statue of Mercury beside the lake.
In 2002 the Mountain Studios was converted into a bar as part of a complete renovation of the studio. Montreux was also the subject of the 1995 Queen single A Winter's Tale on the album Made in Heaven, one of Freddie's last songs before his death on November 24, 1991. The album cover features the statue of Mercury beside the lake.
In the 12th century, viticulture was introduced to the region, and the sunny slopes of the lake from Lavaux to Montreux became an important wine-growing region.
After the Burgundian Wars in the 15th century, the Swiss in Bern occupied the region without resistance. The Reformation made the region around Montreux and Vevey an attractive haven for Huguenots from Italy, who brought their artisanal skills and set up workshops and businesses.
In 1798, Napoleon liberated the region from the Bernese. In the 19th century, the tourist industry became a major commercial outlet, with the grand hotels of Montreux attracting the rich and cultured from Europe and America.
Having explored Montreux, we take the N9 to Villeneuve and across Rhone to the border town of St. Gingolph.
St-Gingolph sits on the alluvial cone which developed at the point where the Morge River spills into Lake Geneva. This unique setting at the mouth of the Morge, a veritable lifeline connecting the French Haute Savoie with the Swiss Valais, makes this village accessible by car, train and boat. The castle, dates from 1588, and chapel is circa 17th century.
The name Saint-Gingolph is derived from the eighth century Saint Gangulphus, who is said to have lived as a hermit in this region. The town played an important role during World War II when Haute Savoie was occupied first by the Italian and then by the German Army.
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| Add caption |
Tomorrow, our all too short exploration along the western frontier of Switzerland concludes and we return to France.
St Gingolph to Annecy – 60 Kilometres
23 September 2010
We leave the history and fascination of St Gingolph behind us this morning, riding along the lake on the N5 to the virtual sister communes (Towns) Evian-les-Bains and Thonon-les-Bains before linking first with the D903 and the D1206 for the run into Annemasse. |
| Thonon-les-Bains |
Évian-les-Bains (or Évian) and Thonon-les-Bains are in the Northern part of the Haute-Savoie department in the Rhône-Alpes region in south-eastern France. ...
A Spa town, which is well equipped with large hotels, specializes in hydrotherapy (for urinary and renal ailments). Until the 19th century Évian had been variously called Aquianum, Vian, Les Vians, and Évians.
The town is home of Évian mineral water, which makes up the foundation of the economy together with the Casino d'Evian, the largest themed casino in Europe and the Evian Royal Resort, favorite holiday destination of former French President François Mitterrand. Many of the inhabitants of Évian work in Lausanne and other Swiss cities nearby.
Thonon-les-Bains was the historic capital of Chablais, a province of the old Duchy of Savoy. The Chablais Savoyard is the portion of Chablais in France. Chablais Valaison and Chablais Vaudois are those portions of Chablais in the adjacent Switzerland cantons Valais and VaudStrategic historical locations include Basilica San Francisco de Sales , the former Convent of the Visitation, Chateau de Bellegarde, Castle Sonnaz , Belvedere
We may have a chance to see some of the celebrations of the 400th anniversary of the founding of the Order of Visitation (1610-2010) , by Francis de Sales ( Apostle of Chablais ) and Jeanne de Chantal ( Queen of Burgundy , had become a nun ).
The castle ruins of Thonon , built in the fifteenth century Mary of Burgundy , wife of Amadeus VIII , were édées Family Gerbaix of Sonnaz , whose branch Chablaisian has produced brilliant generals of the army.
One of them , Gen. Hector Sonnaz can be considered , alongside Dessaix , of Dupas , the Chastel, commme one of our glories Chablais .
On the remains of the fortifications of Thonon was then built in 1666 , the beautiful home that is the castle of Sonnaz .
A pleasant and lively town it is considered the capital of the Chablais area.
In Annemasse, we separate into two groups with one catching the train and the others joining Phil in the van for the trip to Annecy.
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| Annemasse Station |
At the edge of the turquoise Lac d'Annecy, bounded to the east by the turreted peaks of La Tournette and to the west by the long wooded ridge of Le Semnoz, Annecy is one of the most beautiful and popular resort towns of the French Alps
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| Annecy |
During the French Revolution the Savoy region was conquered by France. Annecy became attached to the département of Mont Blanc, of which the capital was Chambéry. After the Bourbon Restoration in 1815, it was returned to the Kingdom of Sardinia (heir of the Duchy of Savoy).
When Savoy was sold to France in 1860, it became the capital of the new département of Haute-Savoie.
When Savoy was sold to France in 1860, it became the capital of the new département of Haute-Savoie.
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| Old Jail |
The most picturesque part of Annecy lies at the foot of the castle hill, a warren of lanes, passages and arcaded houses, below and between which flow branches of the Canal du Thiou, draining the lake into the River Fier. The houses, ringed by canal-side railings overflowing with geraniums and petunias, are trully beautiful. The restaurants and bars of Annecy offer a serious temptation tonight however with the first big day of climbing coming up tomorrow, temptation will be best avoided in favour of a good nights rest.
24 September 2010
Annecy to St Jean de Maurienne - 116 Kilometres
The last few days have had us enjoying the tourist life and the delights of the valleys and lakes of Switzerland along the border with France.
La Léchère is a commune in the Savoie department in the Rhône-Alpes region in south-eastern France
There will be some trepidation in our ranks as we move quickly through La Lechere and head out the D213 to the famed Col de la Madeleine for our first assent in the Alpes. Our first mountain challenge is one used in the Tour de France on no less than 23 occassions, the most recent being in 2010.
It took the leading riders of Le Tour approximately 45 minutes to defeat the Alpe. We are looking at surviving for up to 150 minutes for the 25 kilometre climb. Full details and images of the Col de la Madeleine can be found by clicking on the Hors Category Climbs tab of this site.
In 1825, some years after the territory had been passed back to Piedmont by the Congress of Vienna, Maurienne was restored as a diocese along with Tarentaise, with territory taken from Chambéry. By plebiscite of 22 April 1860, Savoy passed to French sovereignty again.
Close by, Notre-Dame church has kept its Norman chevet, a double arched gate, small columns and capitals sculpted out of gypsum (traditional material used for sculpting in Maurienne).
The shell of the cathedral dates from the XI century. It has one of the oldest frameworks in France; some of the roof trusses have been dated with precision: the wood was cut in the autumn of 1074 or 1075. Under the cathedral’s chancel a crypt was built most probably to house the relics of Saint John the Baptist. Filled in in the XV century it was rediscovered in 1958 and can now be visited: techniques from early Norman architecture can be found here. Famous residents of the past include Doctor Fodéré, considered the father of legal medicine and the great couturier Pierre Balmain, who spent all his childhood here.
25 September 2010
St Jean de Maurienne to Bourg D'Oisans – 107 Kilometres
Our team of Soigneurs’ would have been busy last night following our tough day in the saddle. But there will be a sense of satisfaction following the achievement of yesterday. There will also be a sense of excitement as today’s menu includes a main course of perhaps the most iconic climb of the Tour de France.
But first of all, we take the D26 over the Col de la Croix de Fer to give us a chance to work any soreness out of our legs and to warn up for the main challenge of the day.
Col de la Croix de Fer has featured some 15 times in the Tour de France. It first appeared in the 1947 edition of the Tour when the organisers wanted to toughen up the stage before before a mountain top finish on a neighbouring Hors category climb.
24 September 2010
Annecy to St Jean de Maurienne - 116 Kilometres
The last few days have had us enjoying the tourist life and the delights of the valleys and lakes of Switzerland along the border with France.
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| Outside Albertville |
Today we switch back to the cyclist life and as we gather this morning, we are hoping it is not about to be payback time for the indulgences of recent days. Today includes our first serious athletic challenge.
We take the D1508 along the lake from Annecy to Albertville.
Albertville, labelled in 2003 as a "Town of art and history" was founded in 1836 by the Sardinian king Charles Albert. It also consists of the medieval town of Conflans, which has buildings dating back to the 14th century. Since then, Albertville has developed trade between France, Italy, and Switzerland; and industries such as paper mills and hydroelectricity can be found on its river.
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| Albertville |
Albertville is a town more industrial than touristic however hosting the 1992 Winter Olympics resulted in the development of many new sporting facilities some of which remain today
It boosts to be the 399th largest city of France, is in the Commune of the Fench Department Savoie and the region Rhone Alpes.
From Albertville, we head out the N212 before linking with the N90 to La Lechere.
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| La Lechere |
There will be some trepidation in our ranks as we move quickly through La Lechere and head out the D213 to the famed Col de la Madeleine for our first assent in the Alpes. Our first mountain challenge is one used in the Tour de France on no less than 23 occassions, the most recent being in 2010. It took the leading riders of Le Tour approximately 45 minutes to defeat the Alpe. We are looking at surviving for up to 150 minutes for the 25 kilometre climb. Full details and images of the Col de la Madeleine can be found by clicking on the Hors Category Climbs tab of this site.
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| St Jean de Maurienne |
St Jean de Maurienne lies in the Maurienne, the valley of the River Arc. It was also an episcopal see of Savoy during the Ancien Régime and again from 1825 to 1966. Its original name was simply Maurienne, or Moriana in Latin.
The oldest possessions of the Counts of Savoy were the countships of Maurienne, Savoy proper (the district between Arc, Isère, and the middle course of the Rhone), and Belley, with Bugey as its chief town.
The Duchy of Savoy, which had been a French-speaking province under the sovereignty of the Kingdom of Piedmont, was invaded by Revolutionary France and later permanently annexed. The diocese of Saint-Jean-de-Maurienne was formally suppressed in 1801 by the Holy See in accordance with the Napoleonic Concordat of 1801.
In 1825, some years after the territory had been passed back to Piedmont by the Congress of Vienna, Maurienne was restored as a diocese along with Tarentaise, with territory taken from Chambéry. By plebiscite of 22 April 1860, Savoy passed to French sovereignty again.The Maurienne played a great role in the rise of our princes due to its position as the “gatekeeper to the Alps.” Humbert often visited the region and when he died was buried in front of the cathedral as were many of his descendants: Amédée la Queue, Boniface le Rolland… Saint-Jean-de-Maurienne is therefore the top burial site for the Savoy dynasty.
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| Berceau de la Maison de Savoie |
The shell of the cathedral dates from the XI century. It has one of the oldest frameworks in France; some of the roof trusses have been dated with precision: the wood was cut in the autumn of 1074 or 1075. Under the cathedral’s chancel a crypt was built most probably to house the relics of Saint John the Baptist. Filled in in the XV century it was rediscovered in 1958 and can now be visited: techniques from early Norman architecture can be found here. Famous residents of the past include Doctor Fodéré, considered the father of legal medicine and the great couturier Pierre Balmain, who spent all his childhood here.25 September 2010
St Jean de Maurienne to Bourg D'Oisans – 107 Kilometres
Our team of Soigneurs’ would have been busy last night following our tough day in the saddle. But there will be a sense of satisfaction following the achievement of yesterday. There will also be a sense of excitement as today’s menu includes a main course of perhaps the most iconic climb of the Tour de France.
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| Col de la Croix de Fer |
We start the climb of Col de la Croix de Fer from an altitude of 546 metres meaning we only have a further 1650 metres to climb to the summit. The climb is completed over a distance of 29.5 kilometres and at an average gradient of 5.5% with the steepest gradient reaching 9.5%.
Col de la Croix de Fer has featured some 15 times in the Tour de France. It first appeared in the 1947 edition of the Tour when the organisers wanted to toughen up the stage before before a mountain top finish on a neighbouring Hors category climb.
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| From Col de la Croix de Fer |
The views are spectacular.
We descend the Col into Bourg-d'Oisans and although this is a finishing town for the evening, we continue on the mystical Alpe-d’Huez and its 21 switchbacks. A full description of Alpe d’Huez is in the Hors Category Climbs page of this Blog.
Having scaled the Alpe, we again descend to Bourg-d'Oisans and seek much deserved refreshments.
Having scaled the Alpe, we again descend to Bourg-d'Oisans and seek much deserved refreshments.
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| Bourg-d'Oisans |
Bourg-d'Oisans is located in the Oisans region of the French Alps. Le Bourg-d'Oisans is located in the valley of the Romanche river, on the road from Grenoble to Briançon, and on the south side of the Col de la Croix de Fer. It is often on the route of the Tour de France because as we know the town sits at the base of the road to Alpe d'Huez.
It is surrounded by several other well-known mountain resorts, including Les Deux Alpes.
The Écrins National Park lies to the south-east of Le Bourg-d'Oisans.
26 September 2010
Bourg-d'Oisans to Orange – 51 Kilometres
A transition day today and a chance to recover and restore some strength in time for the next climbing challenge.
We leave Bourg-d’Oisans behind us and roll down the Gorge de la Romanche (N91) to Grenoble.
Grenoble (Arpitan: Grenoblo) is a city in southeastern France that is situated at the foot of the French Alps where the river Drac joins the Isère. Located in the Rhône-Alpes region, Grenoble is the capital of the department of Isère. The proximity of the mountains has led to the city being known as the "Capital of Alps."
Grenoble's history encompasses a period of more than 2,000 years, and the city has been the capital of the Dauphiné since the eleventh century. Grenoble experienced a period of economic expansion in the nineteenth and twentieth centuries, which is symbolized by the holding of the X Olympic Winter Games in 1968. The city is now a significant scientific center in Europe.
Grenoble is exclusively built on the alluvial plain of the Isère River and the Drac River at an altitude of 214 metres (702 ft). Abandoned mills and factories can be found in small towns and villages, such as the coal mine at La Mure.
The first references to Grenoble date back to 43 BC. Cularo was at that time a little Gallic village founded by the Allobroges tribe near a bridge across the Isere River. A strong wall was built around the small town in 286 AD.The Emperor Gratian visited Cularo and, touched by the people's welcome, made the village a Roman city. In honour of this, Cularo was renamed Gratianopolis (“city of Gratian”) in 381 (leading to Graignovol during the Middle Age and then Grenoble).
Christianity spread to the region during the fourth century, and the diocese of Grenoble was founded in 377. From that time, the bishops exercised a significant political power over the city and, until the French Revolution, styled themselves the “bishops and princes of Grenoble".
Grenoble grew significantly in the eleventh century when the Counts of Albon chose the city as the capital of their territories. At the time, their possessions were a patchwork of several territories sprawled across the region. The central position of Grenoble allowed the counts to strengthen their authority. When these counts later took the title of "Dauphins", Grenoble became the capital of the State of Dauphiné.
In 1336, the last Dauphin Humbert II founded a court of justice, the Conseil delphinal, which settled at Grenoble in 1340. He also established the University of Grenoble in 1339. Aging and heirless, Humbert sold his state to France in 1349 on the condition that the heir to the French crown used the title of Dauphin. The first one, the future Charles V, spent nine months in Grenoble. The city remained the capital of the Dauphiné, henceforth a province of France, and the Estates of Dauphiné were created.
At that time, Grenoble was a crossroads between Vienne, Geneva, Italy, and Savoy. It was the industrial centre of the Dauphiné and the biggest city of the province.
Due to Grenoble's geographical situation, French troops were garrisoned in the city and its region during the Italian Wars. Charles VIII, Louis XII, and Francis I went several times to Grenoble. However, the people had to suffer from the exactions of the soldiers.
In 1813, Grenoble was under threat from the Austrian army, which invaded Switzerland and Savoy. The city, well-defended, contained the Austrian attacks, and the French army defeated the Austrians, forcing them to withdraw at Geneva. However, the invasion of France in 1814 resulted in the capitulation of the troops and the occupation of the city.During his return from the island of Elba in 1815, Napoleon took a road that led him near Grenoble at Laffrey. There he met the royalist fifth Infantry Regiment of Louis XVIII. Napoleon stepped towards the soldiers and said these famous words: "If there is among you a soldier who wants to kill his Emperor, here I am." The soldiers all joined his cause and Napoleon was acclaimed at Grenoble.
The Bastille fortress was transformed between 1824 and 1848 by general Haxo and took on its present-day aspect. During the Second Empire, the region saw the construction of its railway network, and the first trains arrived at Grenoble in 1858.
In 1869, the engineer Aristide Bergès played a major role in industrializing hydroelectricity production. With the development of his paper mills, he accelerated the economic development of the Grésivaudan valley and Grenoble.
World War I continued the acceleration of Grenoble's economic development. In order to sustain the effort of war, new hydroelectric industries grew up alongside the various rivers of the region, and several other enterprises moved into the armaments industry. Chemicals factories were also established in the area surrounding Grenoble. This development resulted in significant immigration to Grenoble, particularly from Italian workers who settled in Saint-Laurent quarter.
During World War II, at the Battle of the Alps, the Nazi invasion was stopped near Grenoble at Voreppe by the forces of General Cartier. The French forces resisted until the armistice. Grenoble was then part of the French State before submitting to Italian occupation from 1942 to 1943. Their mercy towards the Jewish populations resulted in a significant increase of their number in the region.
Grenoble was extremely active in the Résistance against the occupation. Its action was symbolized by figures such as Eugène Chavant, Léon Martin, and Marie Reynoard. The University of Grenoble supported the clandestine operations and provided false documentation for young people to prevent them from being assigned to STO.
In September 1943, German troops occupied Grenoble, escalating the conflict with the clandestine movements. On November 11, 1943 strikes and demonstrations took place in front of the local collaboration offices. In response, the occupiers arrested 400 demonstrators in the streets. On November 13, the resistance blew up the artillery at the Polygon, which was a psychological shock for an enemy who then intensified the repression. On November 25, the occupiers killed 11 members of the Résistance organizations of Grenoble. This violent crackdown was nicknamed “Grenoble’s Saint-Bartholomew”.
This event only intensified the activities of Grenoble’s resistance movements. The Germans could not prevent the destruction of their new arsenal on December 2 at the Bonne Barracks. After the Normandy landing, resistance operations reached their peak, with numerous attacks considerably hampering the activity of German troops.
With the landing in Provence, German troops evacuated the city on August 22, 1944. On November 5, 1944, General Charles de Gaulle came to Grenoble and bestowed on the city the Compagnon de la Libération in order to recognise a heroic city at the peak of the French resistance and combat for the liberation.
The Bastille, an ancient series of fortifications, sits on the mountainside overlooking Grenoble and is visible from many points in the city.
The Palace of the Parliament of Dauphiné was constructed between 1478 and 1539. It was the location of the Pariament of Dauphiné until the French Revolution. It then became a courthouse until 2002 (Place Saint Andre). The palace was extended at the end of the nineteenth century.
At Grenoble, we board the train for the trip to Orange.
Orange has the standard attributes of surrounding urbanization and high-density habitation. Key attractions of Orange are the great triumphal arch and the magnificent theater (Théatre Antique).
Apart from its justly-famous Roman ruins, the center of Orange isn't particularly picturesque. It is compact, with walking streets and squares lined with small shops, restaurants and terrace cafés, and large shady plane trees.
A small river, the Meyne, runs through part of the town, passing tightly between buildings and backyard gardens. The cleanliness of this town-center river can be attested to by the fish it has in the river.
The summer sees a season of high culture and street festivals in France.
Les Chorégies d'Orange is the oldest festival in France, dating from 1860 and takes place in the atmospheric Roman theatre holding up to 9000 spectators and provides exceptionally good acoustics and a spectacular backdrop for this offering of opera and music.
We will be looking for some rest and relaxation in preparation for tomorrows epic day.
27 September 2010
Orange to Orange 110 kilometres
The Giant of Provence looms on our schedule today. Alpe d’Huez might be the most famous climb included in our Tour and Col du Tourmelet may be the hardest however the challenge of Mt Ventoux will perhaps be the most scary.
We will be approaching Mt Ventoux from Bedoin having first passed through Carpentras.
With a population of around 30,000, Carpentras is a substantial city for this part of the world. It's also a very old one, its known history commencing in 5 BC as the capital of a Celtic tribe. The Greeks came to Carpentras to buy honey, wheat, goats and skins, and the Romans had a base here. For a brief period in the fourteenth century, it became the papal headquarters and gave protection to Jews expelled from France.
Bedoin
We leave Bedoin and head for Mt Ventoux.
Full details of the climb can be found in the Hors Category Climb tab on this site.
Having scaled the climb and enjoyed our achievement at the summit (coffee and cake only), it is time to head for home.
Our descent is fast, picturesque and on rough roads.
Coming in to Malaucène we pass the chapel of Groseau,which is all that remains of a monastery dating from the 7th century. It was destroyed by the Saracens and then rebuilt in the 11th century. Pope Clement V stayed there on several occasions.
Malaucène is the capital of the Ventoux and nestles within the old ramparts. It takes shape around its ancient fort, standing at the highest point of the village. The old town is partly surrounded by a remarkable avenue lined with ancient plane trees. All that remains of Malaucène's fortified enclosure is a few of the gates. One of these, the Soubeyran gate, was used in former times as a gallows for publics hangings.
During the first half of the 14th century Pope Clement V had his summer residence in Malaucène. He left his mark on the town in the form of the church of Saint Michel & Saint Pierre, which was erected in 1309 on the site of an ancient temple. Surprisingly its has a fortified appearance with machicolations, pillboxes and other military-type elements (rather rare in a religious building) and also its blend of Romanesque and Gothic style. Inside is a case organ in gilded wood (1639), its pulpit entirely sculpted and its curious stone bench and at 41.77 metres long is the longest in France.
Little by little, Malaucène became a large market town by developing the same industrial activity over the last four centuries: the Papeteries de Malaucène. This paper mill specialises in manufacturing the tips for cigarette filters.
Agriculture has developed alongside this and in the last few years tourism has also become part of Malaucène's resources. The streets of Malaucène boast beautiful residences dating from the 16th to 18th centuries, the ancient fountains and the wash-houses.
But as for us, we are now very firmly focused on reaching Orange and properly celebrating our day.
28 September 2010
Orange to Nimes – 80 kilometres
We wake this morning aware that our legs have worked very hard in the last 24 hours and hoping today’s ride profile is friendly.
Perhaps a long lunch is on our agenda at Châteauneuf-du-Pape is a necessary diversion
In the 18th century, the wines of the region were shipped under the name vin d'Avignon. Records from the early 19th century mention wines of the name Châteauneuf-du-Pape-Calcernier which seems to have been a lighter-style wine than the Châteauneuf-du-Pape of today. They seem to have increased in reputation within France until phylloxera hit in the early 1870s, which was earlier than most other French wine regions were affected. Prior to World War I the bulk of Châteauneuf-du-Pape was sold to Burgundy as vin de médecine to be added to Burgundy wine to boost the strength and alcohol levels.
So what about the wines of the area.
Red wines
White wines
Châteauneuf-du-Pape wines are often high in alcohol, typically 13-15%, and must be minimum 12.5% under the appellation rules with no chaptalization allowed. Winemaking in the region tends to focus on balancing the high sugar levels in the grape with the tannins, and phenols that are common in red Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Following harvest, the grape clusters are rarely destemmed prior to fermentation.
The fermentation temperatures are kept high, with the skins being frequently pumped over and punched down for the benefit of tannin levels and color extraction to get that characteristic dark Châteauneuf color. Beginning in the 1970s, market tends to prefer lighter, fruitier wines that can be drunk sooner have prompted some estates to experiment with carbonic maceration. Low yields are considered critical to the success of Châteauneuf-du-Pape with the principal grape varieties tending to make thin and bland wine when produced in higher quantities. The AOC requirements limit yields to 368 gallons per acre, which is nearly half the yields allowed in Bordeaux.
The common technique of using small barrel oak is not widely used in the Châteauneuf-du-Pape area, partly due to the fact that the principal grape Grenache is prone to oxidation in the porous wooden barrels. Instead, Grenache is vinified in large cement tanks, while the other grape varieties are made in large old barrels called foudres that do not impart the same "oaky" characteristics as the smaller oak barrels.
After lunch, it is on to Nimes.
On the border between Provence and Languedoc, the name of NÎMES is inescapably linked to two things – denim and Rome. The latter's influence is highly visible in some of the most extensive Roman remains in Europe, while the former (de Nîmes), equally visible on the backsides of the populace, was first manufactured in the city's textile mills, and exported to the southern USA in the nineteenth century to clothe slaves.
Nimes diversity is such that it is now known in part for the ruins and for the city's new-found energy and direction, enlisting the services of a galaxy of architects and designers – including Norman Foster, Jean Nouvel and Philippe Starck – in a bid to wrest southern supremacy from neighbouring Montpellier.
Nîmes' great passion is bullfighting, and its ferias are acknowledged and well attended by both aficionados and fighters at the highest level.
The city was located on the Via Domitia, a Roman road constructed in 118 BC which connected Italy to Spain.
Economic crisis? – It seems the more things change, the more they stay the same.
The chellenge of yesterday followed by the lunch stop of today will surely see us pleased to arrive in Nimes
29 September 2010
Nimes to Lourdes – 35 kilometres
An easy day today, and a well deserved one at that.
Today Lourdes has a population of around 15,000 but is able to take in some 5,000,000 pilgrims and tourists every season. With about 270 hotels, Lourdes has the second greatest number of hotels per square kilometre in France after Paris.[citation needed]
It is the joint seat of the Diocese of Tarbes-et-Lourdes and is the largest pilgrimage site in France, the second site being the Basilica of St. Thérèse (Lisieux), in Normandie.
During the 8th century, Lourdes and its fortress became the focus of skirmishes between Mirat, the local leader, and Charlemagne, King of the Franks. Charlemagne had been laying siege to Mirat in the fortress for some time, but the Moor had so far refused to surrender.
According to legend, an eagle unexpectedly appeared and dropped an enormous trout at the feet of Mirat. It was seen as such a bad omen that Mirat was persuaded to surrender to the Queen of the sky by the local bishop. He visited the Black Virgin of Puy to offer gifts, so he could make sure this was the best course of action and, astounded by its exceptional beauty, he decided to surrender the fort and converted to Christianity. On the day of his baptism, Mirat took on the name of Lorus, which was given to the town, now known as Lourdes.
Since the apparitions, Lourdes has become one of the world's leading Catholic Marian shrines and the number of visitors grows each year. It has such an important place within the Roman Catholic church, that Pope John Paul II visited the shrine twice on 15 August 1983 and 14–15 August 2004. In 2007, Pope Benedict XVI authorized special indulgences to mark the 150th anniversary of Our Lady of Lourdes
Yearly from March to October the Sanctuary of Our Lady of Lourdes is a place of mass pilgrimage from Europe and other parts of the world. The spring water from the grotto is believed by some to possess healing properties, however there have been skeptics of the miracles from the first reports.
An estimated 200 million people have visited the shrine since 1860,[3] and the Roman Catholic Church has officially recognised 67 miraculous healings which are stringently examined for authenticity and authentic miracle healing with no physical or psychological basis other than the healing power of the water.
On arrival in Lourdes, we embark on an exploratory ride of Lourdes and surrounds.
30 September 2010
Lourdes to Ageles-Gazost – 95 Kilometres
It is back to some serious cycling today as we saddle up and take the D957 to Bagneres.
The town is situated at the foot of the central Pyrenees in a beautiful valley at the confluence of the One and the Pique.
Bagnères-de-Luchon is celebrated for its thermal springs. The springs, which number forty eight, vary in composition, but are chiefly impregnated with sodium sulfate, and range in temperature from 62 to 150 Fahrenheit. The discovery of numerous Roman remains attests the antiquity of the baths, which are identified with the Onesiorum Thermae of Strabo. Their revival in modern times dates from the latter half of the 18th century, and was due to Antoine Mégret d'Étigny, intendant of Auch.
Sculpted by the artist Edmond Chrètien of Bordeaux, and erected in 1926 at the front of the church, to the right of the south door is a memorial to the dead of Campan distinguished by its sober and touching appearance.Unlike the heroic soldiers who decorate many of the war memorials in France, the statue that dominates this monument represents a meditating woman, her face practically invisible, who wears the traditional clothing of the people of the valley.
In the old days, when a man of the Campan valley got married in circumstances that were not normal, e.g., an old widower marrying a young girl, he was the object of a 'charivari' (i.e., pandemonium), an outbreak of very rough mockery. The couple was represented by coarse dolls, known as 'les Mounaques' (from the Occitan word 'monaca', meaning doll or puppet).
From here we travel the D918 and complete our warm up on the Col du Garet.
We celebrate a team members birthday at the summit and descend to Luz St Saveur
Luz St Saveur boasted a nineteenth-century spa, patronized by Napoléon III and Eugénie, and the left-bank St-Saveur quarter owes its elegant Neoclassical facades to this period.
The principal sight, at the top of Luz's medieval, right-bank quarter, is the church of St-André. Built in the late twelfth century and fortified in the fourteenth by the Knights of St John, it's a classic of its kind, with a crenellated outer wall and two stout towers. The north entrance, beneath one of the towers, sports a handsome portal surmounted by a Christ in Majesty carved in fine-grained local stone.
Finally, we hook up with the D12 and cruze into our destination for the evening, Argeles-Gazost
The name of Argeles-Gazost's department, Hautes-Pyrénées, says it all. It translates to High Pyrenees. The area’s cities, Tarbes, Lourdes and Argeles-Gazost, are nestled into plains and valleys. At almost any spot in this department, you are either on a mountain or have a splendid view of snow-capped peaks.
1 October 2010
Argeles Gazost to Pau - 87 Kilometres
After yesterdays epic challenge, we face a solid 87 kilometres today to the town of Pau.
A key challenge on our way to Pau is that of Col d'Aubisque. (See Hors Category Climbs for details)
Tour de France followers will recognise Pau as being a regular finish town of the famous race.
From humble beginnings as a crossing on the Gave de Pau ("Gave" roughly translates as valley) for flocks en route to and from the mountains, PAU became the capital of the ancient viscountcy of Béarn in 1464, and of the French part of the kingdom of Navarre in 1512. In 1567 its sovereign, Henri d'Albret, married the sister of the king of France, Marguerite d'Angoulême, friend and protector of artists and intellectuals and herself the author of a celebrated Boccaccio-like tale (the Heptameron), who transformed the town into a centre of the arts and nonconformist thinking.
Strangely, Pau boasts ‘no’ must-see sights or museums, so we can enjoy the towns relaxed and friendly elegance without any sense of guilt. The parts to wander are the streets behind the boulevard des Pyrénées, especially the western end, which stretches along the rim of the scarp above the Gave de Pau, from the castle to the Palais de Beaumont, now a convention centre, in the English-style Parc Beaumont. On a (rare) clear day, the view from the boulevard is out of this world, encompassing a hundred-kilometre sweep of the highest Pyrenean peaks, with the distinctive Pic du Midi d'Ossau in the very front.
2 October 2010
Pau to Saint Cyprien - 52 Kilometres
We leave Pau and head for the Mediterranean Sea Side town of Saint Cyprien Plage in the region of Roussillon
The south of the town, where the port is situated, is more tourist-infested than the rest of the town. The houses are large complexes and it has a small amusement park in the port. It looks as if it once was the kind of park that travelled around, but for some reason got stuck in Saint Cyprien Plage.
The middle of the town is the oldest part, the original 1950s district. It consists of old hotels and apartments that are a bit faded in a charming sort of way.
The Northwest has expanded over the last two decades, and now mostly consists of terraced house areas. These areas usually have names, such as Les Cyclades and Les Citronelles. They also often have a swimming pool that the inhabitants can use. The houses are owned mostly by French people who spend their holidays there. Some are owned by foreigners. When the owners aren't using them, others can rent the houses, usually through an agency or from the owners themselves. This is a nice way of experiencing Saint Cyprien Plage.
3 October 2010
St Cyprian to Rocamadour - 136 Kilometres
We have a fascinating 135 kilometres today.
We say are farewells to Saint Cyprian and travel through the intriguing region of Dordogne (also known as the Perigord) and explore what is considered one of the most interesting and diverse regions in the world.
We visit Sarlat, the most famous town in the region and one of the most renowned and visited in France. It is also one of the most attractive. The town is actually twinned with its less famous neighbour and is more correctly called Sarlat le Caneda.
We move onto Beynac and the famous castle.
The castle was bought in 1962 by Lucien Grosso who has restored it.
We next visit La Roque -Gageac
The village of La Roque-Gageac is almost too perfect, its ochre-coloured houses sheltering under dramatically overhanging cliffs.
We move on now to our destination for the evening, Rocamadour.
Rocamadour is on the eastern edge of the area, across the border from the Dordogne into the Lot department. Each year the small village of Rocamadour (population around 600), in the Parc Naturel Régional des Causses du Quercy, receives more than a million visitors. Why so popular?
4 October 2010
Rocamadour to Cahors - 116 Kilometres
We leave Rocamadour with the knowledge we have another amazingly beautiful day ahead of us. Any underlying aches and pains will soon be forgotten as we head out the D36 and onto the N14o to Figeac.
We move through Figeac and take the D822 and D662 down the along the Lot river to Cajarc.
It took seven decades in the 1300s to build Valentré bridge. Legend has it that the builder made a pact with the devil to help in the completion of the bridge.
At the end of the work, the builder tried to go back on the pact by refusing to place the last stone onto the bridge. In the 1800s, during a restoration of the bridge, a carving of a devil was added to the top of one of the three towers.
The city’s ramparts were beefed up in the mid-1300s, and the city’s most famous landmark—the Valentré Bridge—was built.
During the 19th century, many of the city’s key structures were built, including the town hall, theatre, courts and library. The main thoroughfare, boulevard Gambetta, evolved into a bustling street with the city’s twice-weekly market.
Our only issue may well be finding accomodation
5 October 2010
Cahours to Tours - 64 Kilometres
An easy and relaxing run into Tours is on today's agenda where we stay for the next 3 nights.
Tours is in central France, the capital of the Indre-et-Loire department.
It is located on the lower reaches of the river Loire, between Orléans and the Atlantic coast. Touraine, the region around Tours, is known for its wines, the alleged perfection (as perceived by some speakers) of its local spoken French, and for the famous Battle of Tours in 732. It is also the site of the cycling race Paris–Tours. Tours is the largest city in the Centre region of France, although it is not the regional capital.
In the 6th century Gregory of Tours, author of the Ten Books of History, made his mark on the town by restoring the cathedral destroyed by a fire in 561. Saint Martin's monastery benefited from its inception, at the very start of the 6th century from patronage and support from the Frankish king, Clovis.
In 732 AD, Abdel Rahman al-Ghafiqi and a large army of Muslim horsemen from Africa advanced deep into France, and were stopped at Tours by Charles Martel and his infantry in the Battle of Tours. The outcome was defeat for the Muslims, saving France from Islamic conquest. In 845, Tours repulsed the first attack of the Viking chief Hasting (Haesten). In 850, the Vikings settled at the mouths of the Seine and the Loire. Still led by Hasting, they went up the Loire again in 852 and sacked Angers, Tours and the abbey of Marmoutier.
Tours became the capital of the county of Tours or Touraine, territory bitterly disputed between the counts of Blois and Anjou - the latter were victorious in the 9th century. It was the capital of France at the time of Louis XI, who had settled in the castle of Montils (today the castle of Plessis in La Riche, western suburbs of Tours), Tours and Touraine remained until the 16th century a permanent residence of the kings and court. The rebirth gave Tours and Touraine many private mansions and castles, joined together to some extent under the generic name of the Chateaux of the Loire. It is also at the time of Louis XI that the silk industry was introduced - despite difficulties, the industry still survives to this day.
However, it was the arrival of the railway in the 19th century which saved the city by making it an important nodal point. The main railway station is known as Tours-Saint-Pierre-des-Corps. At that time, Tours was expanding towards the south into a district known as the Prébendes. The importance of the city as a centre of communications contributed to its revival and, as the 20th century progressed, Tours became a dynamic conurbation, economically oriented towards the service centre.
The city was greatly affected by the First World War. A force of 25,000 American soldiers arrived in 1917, setting up textile factories for the manufacture of uniforms, repair shops for military equipment, munitions dumps, an army post office and an American military hospital at Augustins. Thus Tours became a garrison town with a resident general staff. The American presence is remembered today by the Woodrow Wilson bridge over the Loire, which was officially opened in July 1918 and bears the name of the man who was President of the USA from 1912 to 1920. Three American air force squadrons, including the 492nd, were based at the Parçay-Meslay airfield, their personnel playing an active part in the life of the city. Americans paraded at funerals and award ceremonies for the Croix de Guerre; they also took part in festivals and their YMCA organised shows for the troops. Some men married girls from Tours.
In 1920, the city was host to the Congress of Tours, which saw the creation of the French Communist Party.
8 October 2010
Tours to Paris - 152 Kilometres
Bourg-d'Oisans to Orange – 51 Kilometres
A transition day today and a chance to recover and restore some strength in time for the next climbing challenge.
We leave Bourg-d’Oisans behind us and roll down the Gorge de la Romanche (N91) to Grenoble.
Grenoble (Arpitan: Grenoblo) is a city in southeastern France that is situated at the foot of the French Alps where the river Drac joins the Isère. Located in the Rhône-Alpes region, Grenoble is the capital of the department of Isère. The proximity of the mountains has led to the city being known as the "Capital of Alps."
Grenoble's history encompasses a period of more than 2,000 years, and the city has been the capital of the Dauphiné since the eleventh century. Grenoble experienced a period of economic expansion in the nineteenth and twentieth centuries, which is symbolized by the holding of the X Olympic Winter Games in 1968. The city is now a significant scientific center in Europe.Grenoble is surrounded by mountains. To the north lies the Chartreuse, to the south and west the Vercors, and to the east the Belledonne range. For the French, Grenoble is the capital of the Alps.
The first references to Grenoble date back to 43 BC. Cularo was at that time a little Gallic village founded by the Allobroges tribe near a bridge across the Isere River. A strong wall was built around the small town in 286 AD.Christianity spread to the region during the fourth century, and the diocese of Grenoble was founded in 377. From that time, the bishops exercised a significant political power over the city and, until the French Revolution, styled themselves the “bishops and princes of Grenoble".
Grenoble grew significantly in the eleventh century when the Counts of Albon chose the city as the capital of their territories. At the time, their possessions were a patchwork of several territories sprawled across the region. The central position of Grenoble allowed the counts to strengthen their authority. When these counts later took the title of "Dauphins", Grenoble became the capital of the State of Dauphiné.
In 1336, the last Dauphin Humbert II founded a court of justice, the Conseil delphinal, which settled at Grenoble in 1340. He also established the University of Grenoble in 1339. Aging and heirless, Humbert sold his state to France in 1349 on the condition that the heir to the French crown used the title of Dauphin. The first one, the future Charles V, spent nine months in Grenoble. The city remained the capital of the Dauphiné, henceforth a province of France, and the Estates of Dauphiné were created.
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| Fontaine trois ordres - Grenoble |
The only Dauphin who really governed his province was Louis XI, whose “reign” lasted nine years from 1447 to 1456.
At that time, Grenoble was a crossroads between Vienne, Geneva, Italy, and Savoy. It was the industrial centre of the Dauphiné and the biggest city of the province.
Due to Grenoble's geographical situation, French troops were garrisoned in the city and its region during the Italian Wars. Charles VIII, Louis XII, and Francis I went several times to Grenoble. However, the people had to suffer from the exactions of the soldiers.
The city gained some notoriety on 7 June 1788 when the townspeople assaulted troops of Louis XVI in the "Day of the Tiles". The people attacked the royal troops to prevent an expulsion of the notables of the city, which would have seriously endangered the economic prosperity of Grenoble. Following these events, the Assembly of Vizille took place. Its members organized the meeting of the old Estates General, thus beginning the Revolution. During the French Revolution, Grenoble was highly represented in Paris by two illustrious notables, Jean Joseph Mounier and Antoine Barnave.
In 1813, Grenoble was under threat from the Austrian army, which invaded Switzerland and Savoy. The city, well-defended, contained the Austrian attacks, and the French army defeated the Austrians, forcing them to withdraw at Geneva. However, the invasion of France in 1814 resulted in the capitulation of the troops and the occupation of the city.The Bastille fortress was transformed between 1824 and 1848 by general Haxo and took on its present-day aspect. During the Second Empire, the region saw the construction of its railway network, and the first trains arrived at Grenoble in 1858.
World War I continued the acceleration of Grenoble's economic development. In order to sustain the effort of war, new hydroelectric industries grew up alongside the various rivers of the region, and several other enterprises moved into the armaments industry. Chemicals factories were also established in the area surrounding Grenoble. This development resulted in significant immigration to Grenoble, particularly from Italian workers who settled in Saint-Laurent quarter.
Grenoble was extremely active in the Résistance against the occupation. Its action was symbolized by figures such as Eugène Chavant, Léon Martin, and Marie Reynoard. The University of Grenoble supported the clandestine operations and provided false documentation for young people to prevent them from being assigned to STO.
In September 1943, German troops occupied Grenoble, escalating the conflict with the clandestine movements. On November 11, 1943 strikes and demonstrations took place in front of the local collaboration offices. In response, the occupiers arrested 400 demonstrators in the streets. On November 13, the resistance blew up the artillery at the Polygon, which was a psychological shock for an enemy who then intensified the repression. On November 25, the occupiers killed 11 members of the Résistance organizations of Grenoble. This violent crackdown was nicknamed “Grenoble’s Saint-Bartholomew”.
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| Parliament |
With the landing in Provence, German troops evacuated the city on August 22, 1944. On November 5, 1944, General Charles de Gaulle came to Grenoble and bestowed on the city the Compagnon de la Libération in order to recognise a heroic city at the peak of the French resistance and combat for the liberation.
The Bastille, an ancient series of fortifications, sits on the mountainside overlooking Grenoble and is visible from many points in the city.The Palace of the Parliament of Dauphiné was constructed between 1478 and 1539. It was the location of the Pariament of Dauphiné until the French Revolution. It then became a courthouse until 2002 (Place Saint Andre). The palace was extended at the end of the nineteenth century.
At Grenoble, we board the train for the trip to Orange.
Orange has the standard attributes of surrounding urbanization and high-density habitation. Key attractions of Orange are the great triumphal arch and the magnificent theater (Théatre Antique). |
| Roman Theatre |
The Théatre is at the base of the Colline St Eturope, dominating the opposite square with the museum and the cafés. A hike up to the top of the hill (Colline St Eutrope) gives a great view down into the Théatre.
The walled Augustian city enclosed about 70 ha, enclosing most of St Eutrope Hill and extending about a km north, just short of the Triumphal Arch.
A bishop was installed here in the 4th century, and a small university was located here. The town was ruled by the Baux in the 12th century, and by the Chalon in the 14th. In 1530, it came under the rule of the Nassau, and was integrated into the Principality of Orange-Nassau. Later in the 16th century, the town suffered from the Wars of Religion.
Apart from its justly-famous Roman ruins, the center of Orange isn't particularly picturesque. It is compact, with walking streets and squares lined with small shops, restaurants and terrace cafés, and large shady plane trees. A small river, the Meyne, runs through part of the town, passing tightly between buildings and backyard gardens. The cleanliness of this town-center river can be attested to by the fish it has in the river.
The summer sees a season of high culture and street festivals in France.
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| Les Chorégies d'Orange |
We will be looking for some rest and relaxation in preparation for tomorrows epic day.
27 September 2010
Orange to Orange 110 kilometres
The Giant of Provence looms on our schedule today. Alpe d’Huez might be the most famous climb included in our Tour and Col du Tourmelet may be the hardest however the challenge of Mt Ventoux will perhaps be the most scary.
We will be approaching Mt Ventoux from Bedoin having first passed through Carpentras.
With a population of around 30,000, Carpentras is a substantial city for this part of the world. It's also a very old one, its known history commencing in 5 BC as the capital of a Celtic tribe. The Greeks came to Carpentras to buy honey, wheat, goats and skins, and the Romans had a base here. For a brief period in the fourteenth century, it became the papal headquarters and gave protection to Jews expelled from France.
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| Synagogue |
For all its ancient remains, Carpentras seems incapable of working up an atmosphere to imbue the present with its past. The local history museum is dark and dour. The erotic fantasies of a seventeenth-century cardinal frescoed by Nicolas Mignard in the Palais de Justice, formerly the episcopal palace, were effaced by a later incumbent. The palais is attached to the dull Cathédrale St-Siffrein, behind which, almost hidden in the corner, stands a Roman arch inscribed with scenes of prisoners in chains.
Fifteen hundred years after its erection, Jews – coerced, bribed or otherwise persuaded – entered the cathedral in chains to be unshackled as converted Christians. The door they passed through, the Porte Juif, is on the southern side and bears strange symbolism of rats encircling and devouring a globe. The synagogue near the Hôtel de Ville, is a seventeenth-century construction on fourteenth-century foundations, making it the oldest surviving place of Jewish worship in France.
Bedoin
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| Bedoin |
The first thing we notice approaching Bédoin is the huge, imposing church of Saint-Antonin, with its Spanish-looking style so different from any other in the Provence region. In fact, the style is Jesuit, built in 1702 and restored in the 19th century In spite of the strangely different style, the church does have a wrought-iron belfry so typical of the region.
The houses of this compact, old village look small compared to the church, and are clustered up against the hill. At the top of the village hill, above houses and church alike, the tombstones from an abandoned and vandalized graveyard are scattered about in the tall grass.
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| Fountain |
The ruined graves evoke a bit of sadness that tempers the incredible view from this high spot. The hilltop village of Crillon-le-Brave is visible across the fields to the southwest, while the 1900m-high Mont Ventoux towers high above Bédoin to the northeast.
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| Ventoux from Bedoin |
The village center is along the road at the base of the old village where we find a collection of terrace cafés under the shade of large plane trees. A small square just off the road, with a lovely old fountain, seems to be a favourite meeting place and perhaps our last stop before the Giant of Provence.
Full details of the climb can be found in the Hors Category Climb tab on this site.
Having scaled the climb and enjoyed our achievement at the summit (coffee and cake only), it is time to head for home.
Our descent is fast, picturesque and on rough roads.
Coming in to Malaucène we pass the chapel of Groseau,which is all that remains of a monastery dating from the 7th century. It was destroyed by the Saracens and then rebuilt in the 11th century. Pope Clement V stayed there on several occasions.
Malaucène is the capital of the Ventoux and nestles within the old ramparts. It takes shape around its ancient fort, standing at the highest point of the village. The old town is partly surrounded by a remarkable avenue lined with ancient plane trees. All that remains of Malaucène's fortified enclosure is a few of the gates. One of these, the Soubeyran gate, was used in former times as a gallows for publics hangings.During the first half of the 14th century Pope Clement V had his summer residence in Malaucène. He left his mark on the town in the form of the church of Saint Michel & Saint Pierre, which was erected in 1309 on the site of an ancient temple. Surprisingly its has a fortified appearance with machicolations, pillboxes and other military-type elements (rather rare in a religious building) and also its blend of Romanesque and Gothic style. Inside is a case organ in gilded wood (1639), its pulpit entirely sculpted and its curious stone bench and at 41.77 metres long is the longest in France.
Little by little, Malaucène became a large market town by developing the same industrial activity over the last four centuries: the Papeteries de Malaucène. This paper mill specialises in manufacturing the tips for cigarette filters. Agriculture has developed alongside this and in the last few years tourism has also become part of Malaucène's resources. The streets of Malaucène boast beautiful residences dating from the 16th to 18th centuries, the ancient fountains and the wash-houses.
But as for us, we are now very firmly focused on reaching Orange and properly celebrating our day.
28 September 2010
Orange to Nimes – 80 kilometres
Perhaps a long lunch is on our agenda at Châteauneuf-du-Pape is a necessary diversion
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| Chateauneuf de Pape Township |
Châteauneuf-du-Pape translates as "New Castle of the Pope," and indeed, the history of this commune and its wine is firmly entwined with papal history. In 1308, Pope Clement V, former Archbishop of Bordeaux, relocated the papacy to the city of Avignon. Clement V and subsequent "Avignon Popes" were said to be great lovers of wine and did much to promote it during the seventy-year duration of the Avignon Papacy
But I suggest the wine is of more interest today than other aspects of the Commune, and wine dominates this area.
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| The 'Castle" Vineyard |
In the 18th century, the wines of the region were shipped under the name vin d'Avignon. Records from the early 19th century mention wines of the name Châteauneuf-du-Pape-Calcernier which seems to have been a lighter-style wine than the Châteauneuf-du-Pape of today. They seem to have increased in reputation within France until phylloxera hit in the early 1870s, which was earlier than most other French wine regions were affected. Prior to World War I the bulk of Châteauneuf-du-Pape was sold to Burgundy as vin de médecine to be added to Burgundy wine to boost the strength and alcohol levels.The producers of Châteauneuf-du-Pape have historically been known to be fiercely protective of their vineyard properties which is said to have led to the 1954 passing of a municipal decree in the village of Châteauneuf-du-Pape that banned the overhead flying, landing or taking off of flying saucers in the commune. As of 2007, this law has yet to be repealed.
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| Vineyard |
Châteauneuf-du-Pape is traditionally cited as allowing thirteen grape varieties to be used, but the 2009 version of the AOC rules in fact list eighteen varieties, since blanc (white), rose (pink) and noir (black) versions of some grapes are now explicitly listed as separate varieties. Also in the previous version of the appellation rules, Grenache and Picpoul were associated with different pruning regulations in their noir and blanc versions, bringing the number of varieties previously mentioned from thirteen to fifteen.
Red varieties allowed are Cinsaut, Counoise, Grenache Noir, Mourvèdre, Muscardin, Piquepoul Noir, Syrah, Terret Noir, and Vaccarèse (Brun Argenté). White and pink varieties are Bourboulenc, Clairette Blanche, Clairette Rose, Grenache Blanc, Grenache Gris, Picardan, Piquepoul Blanc, Piquepoul Gris, and Roussanne. (The varieties not specifically mentioned before 2009 are Clairette Rose, Grenache Gris and Piquepoul Gris.)
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| Domaine de Beaurenard |
Both red and white varieties are allowed in both red and white Châteauneuf-du-Pape. There are no restrictions as to the proportion of grape varieties to be used, and unlike for many other appellations, the allowed grape varieties are not differentiated into principal varieties and accessory varieties.[6] Thus, it is theoretically possible to produce varietal Châteauneuf-du-Pape from any of the eighteen allowed varieties. In reality, most Châteauneuf-du-Pape wines are blends dominated by Grenache.
With 72% of the total vineyard surface in 2004, Grenache Noir is very dominant, followed by Syrah at 10.5% and Mourvèdre at 7%, both of which have expanded in recent decades.[12] Cinsaut, Clairette, Grenache Blanc, Roussanne and Bourboulenc each cover 1-2.5%, and the remaining seven varieties each account for 0.5% or less.
It is common to grow the vines as gobelets (bushvine), and this is the only vine training system allowed for the first four red varieties. Yields are restricted to two tons per acre.
So what about the wines of the area.
Red wines
In most red Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Grenache noir is the most common variety, although some producers use a higher proportion of Mourvèdre. Grenache produces a sweet juice that can have almost a jam-like consistency when very ripe. Syrah is typically blended to provide color and spice, while Mourvèdre can add elegance and structure to the wine. Some estates produce varietal (100%) Grenache noir, while a few producers insist on using at least a token amount of all thirteen permitted varieties in their blend. The only estate to grow all thirteen varieties and use them consistently in a blend is Château de Beaucastel.
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| Chateauneuf de Pape |
Châteauneuf-du-Pape red wines are often described as earthy with gamy flavors that have hints of tar and leather. The wines are considered tough and tannic in their youth but maintain their rich, spiciness as they age. The wines often exhibit aromas of dried herbs common in Provence under the name of garrigue. Châteauneuf-du-Pape dominated by Mourvèdre tend to be higher in tannin and requiring longer cellaring before being approachable.
White wines
White Châteauneuf-du-Pape is produced by excluding the red varieties and only using the six permitted white varieties. The white varieties account for 7 percent of the total plantation according to 2004 statistics, and a portion of the whites grapes are blended into red wines, which means that white wine production only accounts for around 5 percent of the total. In white Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Grenache blanc and Roussanne provides fruitiness and fatness to the blend while Bourboulenc, Clairette and Picpoul add acidity, floral and mineral notes.
The style of these wines range from lean and minerally to oily and rich with a variety of aromas and flavor notes--including almond, star fruit, anise, fennel, honeysuckle and peach. A single varietal, Roussanne, that is matured in an oak aging barrel, is also made by some estates. Most whites are made to be drunk young. Some white Châteauneuf-du-Pape are meant to age and tend to develop exotic aromas and scents of orange peels after 7-8 years. Rosé wines are not allowed within the appellation.
The style of these wines range from lean and minerally to oily and rich with a variety of aromas and flavor notes--including almond, star fruit, anise, fennel, honeysuckle and peach. A single varietal, Roussanne, that is matured in an oak aging barrel, is also made by some estates. Most whites are made to be drunk young. Some white Châteauneuf-du-Pape are meant to age and tend to develop exotic aromas and scents of orange peels after 7-8 years. Rosé wines are not allowed within the appellation.
Châteauneuf-du-Pape wines are often high in alcohol, typically 13-15%, and must be minimum 12.5% under the appellation rules with no chaptalization allowed. Winemaking in the region tends to focus on balancing the high sugar levels in the grape with the tannins, and phenols that are common in red Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Following harvest, the grape clusters are rarely destemmed prior to fermentation.
The fermentation temperatures are kept high, with the skins being frequently pumped over and punched down for the benefit of tannin levels and color extraction to get that characteristic dark Châteauneuf color. Beginning in the 1970s, market tends to prefer lighter, fruitier wines that can be drunk sooner have prompted some estates to experiment with carbonic maceration. Low yields are considered critical to the success of Châteauneuf-du-Pape with the principal grape varieties tending to make thin and bland wine when produced in higher quantities. The AOC requirements limit yields to 368 gallons per acre, which is nearly half the yields allowed in Bordeaux.
The common technique of using small barrel oak is not widely used in the Châteauneuf-du-Pape area, partly due to the fact that the principal grape Grenache is prone to oxidation in the porous wooden barrels. Instead, Grenache is vinified in large cement tanks, while the other grape varieties are made in large old barrels called foudres that do not impart the same "oaky" characteristics as the smaller oak barrels.
After lunch, it is on to Nimes.
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| Nimes |
Nimes diversity is such that it is now known in part for the ruins and for the city's new-found energy and direction, enlisting the services of a galaxy of architects and designers – including Norman Foster, Jean Nouvel and Philippe Starck – in a bid to wrest southern supremacy from neighbouring Montpellier.
Nîmes' great passion is bullfighting, and its ferias are acknowledged and well attended by both aficionados and fighters at the highest level.
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| Nimes Arena |
Nimes also boasts the Nîmes Arena acknowledged as the best preserved amphitheatre of the Roman era.
The city derives its name from that of a spring in the Roman village. The contemporary symbol and shield of the city of Nîmes includes a crocodile chained to a palm tree with the inscription 'COLNEM', an abbreviation of 'Colonia Nemausus', meaning the 'colony' or 'settlement' of Nemausus. Veterans of the Roman legions who had served Julius Caesar in his Nile campaigns, at the end of fifteen years of soldiering, were given plots of land to cultivate on the plain of Nîmes.
The city was located on the Via Domitia, a Roman road constructed in 118 BC which connected Italy to Spain.
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| Roman Aquaduct |
Modern Nimes was forged following a European economic crisis which hit Nîmes with full force, the Revolutionary period awoke slumbering demons of political and religious antagonism. The White Terror added to natural calamities and economic recession, produced murder, pillage and arson until 1815. Order was however restored in the course of the century, and Nîmes became the metropolis of Bas-Languedoc, diversifying its industry towards new kinds of activity. At the same time the surrounding countryside adapted to market needs and shared in the general increase of wealth.
Economic crisis? – It seems the more things change, the more they stay the same.
The chellenge of yesterday followed by the lunch stop of today will surely see us pleased to arrive in Nimes
29 September 2010
Nimes to Lourdes – 35 kilometres
An easy day today, and a well deserved one at that.
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| Nimes Station |
We split into two groups with two of us joining Phil for the road trip to Lourdes and the rest heading to the station to take the train.
Lourdes (Occitan: Lorda) is a commune in the Hautes-Pyrénées department in the Midi-Pyrénées region in south-western France.
Lourdes is a small market town lying in the foothills of the Pyrenees, famous for the Marian apparitions of Our Lady of Lourdes that are reported to have occurred in 1858 to Bernadette Soubirous. At that time, the most prominent feature of the town was the fortified castle that rises up from a rocky escarpment at its centre.
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| Our Lady of Lourdes |
Following the reports that Our Lady of Lourdes had appeared to Bernadette Soubirous on a total of eighteen occasions, Lourdes has developed into a major place of Roman Catholic pilgrimage and of alleged miraculous healings. The 150th Jubilee of the first apparition took place on 11 February 2008 with an outdoor mass attended by approximately 45,000 pilgrims.
During the 8th century, Lourdes and its fortress became the focus of skirmishes between Mirat, the local leader, and Charlemagne, King of the Franks. Charlemagne had been laying siege to Mirat in the fortress for some time, but the Moor had so far refused to surrender. According to legend, an eagle unexpectedly appeared and dropped an enormous trout at the feet of Mirat. It was seen as such a bad omen that Mirat was persuaded to surrender to the Queen of the sky by the local bishop. He visited the Black Virgin of Puy to offer gifts, so he could make sure this was the best course of action and, astounded by its exceptional beauty, he decided to surrender the fort and converted to Christianity. On the day of his baptism, Mirat took on the name of Lorus, which was given to the town, now known as Lourdes.
Up until 1858, Lourdes was a quiet, modest, county-town with a population of only some 4,000 inhabitants. The castle was occupied by an infantry garrison. The town was a place people passed through on their way to the waters at Barèges, Cauterets, Luz-Saint-Sauveur and Bagnères-de-Bigorre, and for the first mountaineers on their way to Gavarnie, when the events which were to change its history took place.
On 11 February 1858, a 14-year-old local girl, Bernadette Soubirous, claimed a beautiful lady appeared to her in the remote Grotto of Massabielle. The lady later identified herself as "the Immaculate Conception" and the faithful believe her to be the Blessed Virgin Mary. The lady appeared 18 times, and by 1859 thousands of pilgrims were visiting Lourdes. A statue of Our Lady of Lourdes was erected at the site in 1864. See Our Lady of Lourdes for more details on the apparitions.
Since the apparitions, Lourdes has become one of the world's leading Catholic Marian shrines and the number of visitors grows each year. It has such an important place within the Roman Catholic church, that Pope John Paul II visited the shrine twice on 15 August 1983 and 14–15 August 2004. In 2007, Pope Benedict XVI authorized special indulgences to mark the 150th anniversary of Our Lady of LourdesYearly from March to October the Sanctuary of Our Lady of Lourdes is a place of mass pilgrimage from Europe and other parts of the world. The spring water from the grotto is believed by some to possess healing properties, however there have been skeptics of the miracles from the first reports.
An estimated 200 million people have visited the shrine since 1860,[3] and the Roman Catholic Church has officially recognised 67 miraculous healings which are stringently examined for authenticity and authentic miracle healing with no physical or psychological basis other than the healing power of the water.
On arrival in Lourdes, we embark on an exploratory ride of Lourdes and surrounds.
30 September 2010
Lourdes to Ageles-Gazost – 95 Kilometres
It is back to some serious cycling today as we saddle up and take the D957 to Bagneres.
The town is situated at the foot of the central Pyrenees in a beautiful valley at the confluence of the One and the Pique.
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| Bagneres Spa |
Bagnères-de-Luchon is celebrated for its thermal springs. The springs, which number forty eight, vary in composition, but are chiefly impregnated with sodium sulfate, and range in temperature from 62 to 150 Fahrenheit. The discovery of numerous Roman remains attests the antiquity of the baths, which are identified with the Onesiorum Thermae of Strabo. Their revival in modern times dates from the latter half of the 18th century, and was due to Antoine Mégret d'Étigny, intendant of Auch.Within the town today (2006), a more modern entrance to the baths sits alongside the older buildings.
We leave the town by way of the D8 before linking with the D935 and head for St Marie de Campan
Campan stands in a valley of the same name at the confluence of the rivers Adour and Adour de Payolle. It is situated on what was previously known as the Route of the Pyrenees.
Sculpted by the artist Edmond Chrètien of Bordeaux, and erected in 1926 at the front of the church, to the right of the south door is a memorial to the dead of Campan distinguished by its sober and touching appearance.In the old days, when a man of the Campan valley got married in circumstances that were not normal, e.g., an old widower marrying a young girl, he was the object of a 'charivari' (i.e., pandemonium), an outbreak of very rough mockery. The couple was represented by coarse dolls, known as 'les Mounaques' (from the Occitan word 'monaca', meaning doll or puppet).
From here we travel the D918 and complete our warm up on the Col du Garet.However, all this is really a distraction from the real business of the day; the ascent of the feared Col du Tourmelet.
See Hors Category Climbs section of this site for details of the Col.
We celebrate a team members birthday at the summit and descend to Luz St Saveur
Luz St Saveur boasted a nineteenth-century spa, patronized by Napoléon III and Eugénie, and the left-bank St-Saveur quarter owes its elegant Neoclassical facades to this period.Finally, we hook up with the D12 and cruze into our destination for the evening, Argeles-Gazost
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| Argeles-Gazost |
Argeles-Gazost, France might be a bit small, but it has a lot to offer. It has a cute and compact downtown lined with shops and cafés, a thermal spa and a casino. It is close to ski slopes, a medieval abbey, several lakes and numerous mountain peaks.
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| Argeles-Gazost |
Nestled in the Pyrenees Mountains just a short drive south of Lourdes and close to skiing, this makes an excellent getaway spot for nature-lovers who also prefer to be based in a civilized and charming town.
The name of Argeles-Gazost's department, Hautes-Pyrénées, says it all. It translates to High Pyrenees. The area’s cities, Tarbes, Lourdes and Argeles-Gazost, are nestled into plains and valleys. At almost any spot in this department, you are either on a mountain or have a splendid view of snow-capped peaks.
1 October 2010
Argeles Gazost to Pau - 87 Kilometres
After yesterdays epic challenge, we face a solid 87 kilometres today to the town of Pau.
A key challenge on our way to Pau is that of Col d'Aubisque. (See Hors Category Climbs for details)
Tour de France followers will recognise Pau as being a regular finish town of the famous race.From humble beginnings as a crossing on the Gave de Pau ("Gave" roughly translates as valley) for flocks en route to and from the mountains, PAU became the capital of the ancient viscountcy of Béarn in 1464, and of the French part of the kingdom of Navarre in 1512. In 1567 its sovereign, Henri d'Albret, married the sister of the king of France, Marguerite d'Angoulême, friend and protector of artists and intellectuals and herself the author of a celebrated Boccaccio-like tale (the Heptameron), who transformed the town into a centre of the arts and nonconformist thinking.
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| Pau Golf Club |
The least-expected thing about Pau is its English connection, which dates from the arrival of Wellington and his troops after the defeat of Marshal Soult at Orthez in 1814. Seduced by its climate and persuaded of its curative powers by the Scottish doctor Alexander Taylor, the English flocked to Pau throughout the nineteenth century, bringing along their peculiar cultural obsessions – fox-hunting, horse-racing, polo, croquet, cricket, golf (the first eighteen-hole course in continental Europe in 1860 and the first in the world to admit women), tearooms and parks.
When the rail line arrived here in 1866, the French came, too: writers and artists like Victor Hugo, Stendhal and Lamartine, as well as the socialites. The first French rugby club opened here in 1902, after which the sport spread throughout the southwest. During the 1950s, natural gas was discovered at nearby Lacq, bringing new jobs and subsidiary industries, as well as massive production of sulphur-dioxide-based pollution, now reduced by filtration but still substantial. In addition, there's a well-respected university, founded in 1972, whose eight thousand or so students give the town a youthful buzz.
2 October 2010
Pau to Saint Cyprien - 52 Kilometres
We leave Pau and head for the Mediterranean Sea Side town of Saint Cyprien Plage in the region of Roussillon
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| Saint Cyprien Plage |
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| Saint Cyprien Plage 3 |
By the Mediterranean Sea, Saint Cyprien Plage has a summer population of 30,000, but less than half that during winter. In the past 15 years the town has grown, new houses have been built mainly for French people to use for vacationing. Saint Cyprien Plage has the second largest small-boat port in the Mediterranean, and a beach stretching six kilometres.
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| Village |
The town responsible for creating the colony Saint Cyprien Plage is Saint Cyprien Village, an old town situated two kilometres further inland. The first record of the village is by the Romans, 118 BC. It is quite picturesque, with old houses and small streets. Saint Cyprien Plage however is new being founded in the 1950s and lacks the same old town feel, but it is picturesque nonetheless. It was founded as a project to lure tourists, although the main expansion didn't happen until the beginning of the 1990s. Before there was St Cyprien Plage there was just a marshland with a lot of mosquitoes. And Malaria. The only way to get to the sea was with rafts. But they ditched it and drained away water to make it inhabitable. In recent years a few mosquitoes have begun to return.
The south of the town, where the port is situated, is more tourist-infested than the rest of the town. The houses are large complexes and it has a small amusement park in the port. It looks as if it once was the kind of park that travelled around, but for some reason got stuck in Saint Cyprien Plage.The Northwest has expanded over the last two decades, and now mostly consists of terraced house areas. These areas usually have names, such as Les Cyclades and Les Citronelles. They also often have a swimming pool that the inhabitants can use. The houses are owned mostly by French people who spend their holidays there. Some are owned by foreigners. When the owners aren't using them, others can rent the houses, usually through an agency or from the owners themselves. This is a nice way of experiencing Saint Cyprien Plage.
3 October 2010
St Cyprian to Rocamadour - 136 Kilometres
We have a fascinating 135 kilometres today.
We say are farewells to Saint Cyprian and travel through the intriguing region of Dordogne (also known as the Perigord) and explore what is considered one of the most interesting and diverse regions in the world.
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| Sarlat le Caneda |
The Vezere Valley in the “Perigord Noir” with more than 250 UNESCO sites of interest is the undisputed “Prehistoric Capital of the World”. Prehistoric dwellings, caves, rock shelters and lots more, most of which are only accessible on foot. (we may be walking a fair bit today)
We visit Sarlat, the most famous town in the region and one of the most renowned and visited in France. It is also one of the most attractive. The town is actually twinned with its less famous neighbour and is more correctly called Sarlat le Caneda.
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| Sarlat le Caneda |
Sarlat is a beautiful, well restored town a few kilometres north of the River Dordogne. The old town, dating from both medieval and renaissance times is a pleasure to visit, especially during the spring and autumn and at its best in the early morning. Hopefully we can catch the early morning sunshine on the yellow sandstone buildings.
The streets to the north of the old town are a maze of narrow lanes, with something new to see around every corner.
Market day in Sarlat is a Saturday so we miss it by a day.
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| Les Eyzies |
On to Les Eyzies, often referred to as the worlds prehistoric capital and the numerous painted caves and, particularly, the proliferation of rock shelters only confirm this notion. The most varied prehistoric, and historic, styles and periods are represented, making Les Eyzies the archetypal town for travelling through the past. This vast, motionless promenade will enable us to appreciate more thoroughly the passing of prehistoric time. From La Micoque to Laugerie-Basse. from 300,000 to 5000 years B.C., prehistory at Les Eyzies lasted sixty times longer than history and one hundred and fifty times longer than the Christian era.
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| Les Eyzies |
The chalk uplands which surround Les Eyzies are rich in flint, crisss-crossed with dozens of secret clefts and valleys, dominated by cliffs with hidden caves made fine hunting country for prehistoric man. Solid natural materials abound for making weapons and tools, and the shelter of the rock formations made the Périgord a perfect place to live. 100,000 years ago Neanderthal man walked the valley of the Dordogne and left sufficient remains to make it a focal point of prehistory.
The oldest human skeletal remains found in the Dordogne are of Neanderthal Man.
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| Beynac Village |
The castle was built from the 12th century by the barons of Beynac (one of the four baronies of Périgord) to close the valley. The sheer cliff face being sufficient to discourage any assault from that side, the defences were built up on the plateau: double crenellated walls, double moats, one of which was a deepened natural ravine, double barbican.
The oldest part of the castle is a large, square-shaped, Romanesque keep with vertical sides and few openings, held together with attached watch towers and equipped with a narrow spiral staircase terminating on a crenellated terrace. To one side, a residence of the same period is attached; it was remodelled and enlarged in the 16th and 17th centuries. On the other side is a partly 14th century residence side-by-side with a courtyard and a square plan staircase serving the 17th century apartments. The apartments have kept their woodwork and a painted ceiling from the 17th century.
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| Beynac Castle |
At the time of the Hundred Years' War, the fortress at Beynac was in French hands. The Dordogne was the border between France and England. Not far away, on the opposite bank of the river, the Château de Castelnaud was held by the English. The Dordogne region was the theatre of numerous struggles for influence, rivalries and occasionally battles between the English and French supporters. However, the castles fell more often through ruse and intrigue rather than by direct assault, because the armies needed to take these castles were extremely costly: only the richest nobles and kings could procure them.
We next visit La Roque -Gageac
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| La Roque -Gageac |
Perched above the Dordogne River, it has been designated one of Les Plus Beaux Villages de France ("The most beautiful villages of France").
The village of La Roque-Gageac is almost too perfect, its ochre-coloured houses sheltering under dramatically overhanging cliffs.La Roque has a most dramatic setting, situated right beside the river, with many of its houses built directly into the face of the huge cliff that overhangs the village. Above this there are steep steps to incredible troglodyte caves with great views as well as a small botanical garden.
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| Domme |
On to Domme, the town being an example of a medieval fortified town known as a bastide, founded by Philip the Bold in 1281. Graffiti by Knights Templar imprisoned here following the dissolution of the order in 1307 may be observed on the tower gates.
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| Domme Residence |
Entered directly from the town centre, the caves at Domme are the largest in 'Perigord Noir' and include a succession of 'rooms' containing fabulous rock formations
Rocamadour is on the eastern edge of the area, across the border from the Dordogne into the Lot department. Each year the small village of Rocamadour (population around 600), in the Parc Naturel Régional des Causses du Quercy, receives more than a million visitors. Why so popular?Firstly because Rocamadour is an important pilgrimage destination, and has been for 1000 years. Built on the site of a shrine to a Madonna, the shrine became famous for its healing powers, and soon became a stop on the pilgrimage path to Santiago de Campostela
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| Rocamadour |
Second reason is because of the beautiful and dramatic setting of the village, climbing up a cliff side.
And so ends one of our most educational and interesting days in one of the world’s most unique areas.
4 October 2010
Rocamadour to Cahors - 116 Kilometres
We leave Rocamadour with the knowledge we have another amazingly beautiful day ahead of us. Any underlying aches and pains will soon be forgotten as we head out the D36 and onto the N14o to Figeac.
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| Figeac |
Figeac lies on the River Célé, is a beautiful town with an unspoilt medieval centre, not too encumbered by tourism. Like many other provincial towns hereabouts, it owes its beginnings to the foundation of an abbey in the early days of Christianity in France, one which quickly became wealthy because of its position on the pilgrim routes to both Rocamadour and Compostela.
In the Middle Ages it became a centre of tanning, which partly accounts for the many houses whose top floors have solelhos, or open-sided wooden galleries used for drying skins and other produce. Again, as so often, it was the Wars of Religion that pushed it into eclipse, for Figeac threw in its Lot with the nearby Protestant stronghold of Montauban and suffered the same punishing reprisals by the victorious royalists in 1662.
We move through Figeac and take the D822 and D662 down the along the Lot river to Cajarc.
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| Figeac |
The medieval town of Cajarc, (1 161 inhabitants) a “station verte de vacances”, altitude 152m, has a water sports area on the river Lot.
Situated in the Lot valley, 25 km from Figeac and Villefranche de Rouergue, 50 km from Cahors, Cajarc is the main town of its district. The name of the town originates from the gallo-roman “Cairnacum”. The medieval fortifications have been replaced by boulevards which enclose the historic town and its old houses amongst which the maison Hébrardie retains elements of the old castle.
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| Cajarc |
From the view point “la Plogne” above the town there is a panorama of the town in its meander, the feudal castle of Salvanac-Cajarc, and the Conté cliff where there was a protestant stronghold during the 16th century known as the “château des Anglais”.
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| Cajarc |
In 1989 the “Centre d’art Contemporain Georges Pompidou” was opened in a typical Quercy style building. Each year there are several exhibitions of works of contemporary artists.
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| Carjarc |
Françoise Sagan who wrote “Bonjour Trietesse” was from Cajarc and the town is also well know because of the comedian Coluche, he has a street named after him, whose characters are immortalised through the river excursions on the boat named the “Schmilblic”.
The Lot river surrounds the rocky spur in one of its characteristic “cingle” or meanders and finds its echo in the circular boulevard which replaced the ramparts, taken down in 1622 by order of King Louis 13th. On the banks of the river pleasure boats have replaced the former barges “gabares” that plied the river Lot and gave rise to the 13th / 14th century port with its small arcaded main square.
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| Cahors - Surrounded by water |
From there we comlete our day with an easy run into our destination of Cahors.
Tucked into a rounded nook of the Lot River is the lovely medieval city of Cahors. Almost entirely surrounded by water and at the heart of wine country, the city’s most memorable landmark is the Valentré bridge and the nearby ramparts.
Portions of the city, especially on the western edge, are a tad grungy and graffiti-covered. The city’s main thoroughfare, Boulevard Leon Gambetta, is pleasant for a stroll, as is the medieval neighbourhood just to the east of the road.  |
| Valentré Bridge in Cahors |
At the end of the work, the builder tried to go back on the pact by refusing to place the last stone onto the bridge. In the 1800s, during a restoration of the bridge, a carving of a devil was added to the top of one of the three towers.
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| Cathédral St-Étienne, Cahors |
Cahors experienced its heyday in the 13th century, when Lombard bankers and international tradesman descended on the town. It was a centre of Europe’s financial activity. Pope John XXII was born here, and he founded the now-defunct University of Cahors in the 1500s.
The city’s ramparts were beefed up in the mid-1300s, and the city’s most famous landmark—the Valentré Bridge—was built.
During the 19th century, many of the city’s key structures were built, including the town hall, theatre, courts and library. The main thoroughfare, boulevard Gambetta, evolved into a bustling street with the city’s twice-weekly market.
Our only issue may well be finding accomodation
5 October 2010
Cahours to Tours - 64 Kilometres
An easy and relaxing run into Tours is on today's agenda where we stay for the next 3 nights.
Tours is in central France, the capital of the Indre-et-Loire department.
It is located on the lower reaches of the river Loire, between Orléans and the Atlantic coast. Touraine, the region around Tours, is known for its wines, the alleged perfection (as perceived by some speakers) of its local spoken French, and for the famous Battle of Tours in 732. It is also the site of the cycling race Paris–Tours. Tours is the largest city in the Centre region of France, although it is not the regional capital. In Gallic times the city was important as a crossing point of the Loire. Becoming part of the Roman Empire during the first century AD, the city was named "Caesarodunum" ("hill of Caesar"). The name evolved in the 4th century when the original Gallic name, Turones, became first "Civitas Turonum" then "Tours". It was at this time that the amphitheatre of Tours, one of the five largest in the Empire, was built.
In the 6th century Gregory of Tours, author of the Ten Books of History, made his mark on the town by restoring the cathedral destroyed by a fire in 561. Saint Martin's monastery benefited from its inception, at the very start of the 6th century from patronage and support from the Frankish king, Clovis.
In 732 AD, Abdel Rahman al-Ghafiqi and a large army of Muslim horsemen from Africa advanced deep into France, and were stopped at Tours by Charles Martel and his infantry in the Battle of Tours. The outcome was defeat for the Muslims, saving France from Islamic conquest. In 845, Tours repulsed the first attack of the Viking chief Hasting (Haesten). In 850, the Vikings settled at the mouths of the Seine and the Loire. Still led by Hasting, they went up the Loire again in 852 and sacked Angers, Tours and the abbey of Marmoutier.
Charles IX passed through the city at the time of his royal tour of France between 1564 and 1566, accompanied by the Court and various noblemen: his brother the Duke of Anjou, Henri de Navarre, the cardinals of Bourbon and Lorraine. At this time, the Catholics returned to power in Angers: the intendant assumed the right to nominate the aldermen. The Massacre of Saint-Barthelemy was not repeated at Tours. The Protestants were imprisoned by the aldermen - a measure which prevented their extermination. The permanent return of the Court to Paris and then Versailles marked the beginning of a slow but permanent decline. Guillaume the Metayer (1763–1798), known as Rochambeau, the well known counter-revolutionary chief of Mayenne, was shot there on Thermidor 8, year VI.
In 1920, the city was host to the Congress of Tours, which saw the creation of the French Communist Party.
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| Tours - 22 June 1944 |
Tours was also marked by the Second World War. In 1940, the city suffered massive destruction and for four years it was a city of military camps and fortifications. From 10–13 June 1940, Tours was the temporary seat of the French government before its move to Bordeaux. German incendiary bombs caused a huge fire which blazed out of control from 20–22 June and destroyed part of the city centre. Some architectural masterpieces of the 16th and 17th centuries were lost, as was the monumental entry to the city.
The recent history of Tours is marked by the personality of Jean Royer, who was Mayor for 36 years and helped to save the old town from demolition by establishing one of the first Conservation Areas.
8 October 2010
Tours to Paris - 152 Kilometres
