It's not about the bike - at least not today

Our day has been one of contradiction and I guess confrontation. It has also been about new friends and some unique experiences.

In saying this, I am not referring to the train transfer by 6 of us from Nimes to Lourdes while Damian co-piloted the bikes, bags and "Pants Off" Phil by road.

I am also not talking about what is simply the worlds best double shot espresso at a non descript coffee place in Lourdes. The coffee shop in question does coffee, tea (which one of us had) and small bite size chocolate bars. It does absolutely nothing else. No food, no anything else, just coffee and our caffeine experts agreed with the claim that this is the worlds number one venue for coffee.

In addition, I am not talking about the dinner and wine we enjoyed at a highly recommended restaurant. Three of us had pizza while the rest carbo loaded with pasta - tomorrow is a big day with two major Cols to overcome including the famed Col de Tourmelet on our way to an overnight stay in Ageles-Gazost.

And finally, I am also not referring to the birthday of one of our collective favourite people in Julie L'Estange. Happy birthday Julie; hope you have a great day and the Thursday friendship ride proved a great start to your day.

What I am referring to when saying in the title that "it's not about the bike" is that today was highlighted by much, much more than cycling.

Lourdes is a place of deep religious significance to the Catholic faith. The reasons for this are referred to in the Route Map page of this site so I wont repeat them.

We arrived at Lourdes, checked in to our hotel, unpacked and went to explore.

In general, what we initially witnessed at best, disappointed us all. This appeared to be one tacky, cheap almost dirty little place with streets lined by what appeared to be down market souvenir vendors pedalling religious statues and holy water along with t shirts and other cheap memorabilia.

We ventured on down through the town until we heard the most magnificent Italian singing.

Opening up before us was an open space in front of a magnificent church and the beginning of a parade with flag bearers carrying what we now know to be flags of their Order of the Church and primarily from Italy. Our subsequent investigations revealed that it was Italian day in Lourdes.

This was quite a show.

The parade wound around the town and as the flag bearers ceased, a cross bearer appeared and then following the cross bearer was a parade of the sick. The first in the parade were those being wheeled in beds and were obviously the most seriously ill. Then followed hundreds and hundreds and hundreds of wheel chair bound people and their attendants. This went on and on and on and on . It was truly confronting and moving.

The purpose was that the sick and disabled would be blessed.

The public mass went on for hours as the sick and disabled assembled at the end of the parade in the huge square area in front of the church.

We are all quite certain that one of the bed ridden participants was Chopper Reid - who we know to be terminally ill. I kid you not - we believe it was Chopper Reid.

"Pants Off Phil" identified a group of 3 men who appeared to have an official role in proceedings and approached them asking if they spoke English. We were all keen to understand more about what was going on and Phil thought he had better find out for us. The 3 gentlemen he approached were not only involved, but were Irish and spoke perfect English.

Not only did they fill us is on what was happening, they asked if we wanted to visit the Grotto and see where the miracle of Bernadette Soubirous occurred and to do so without having to endure the crowds and line ups.

Yes was the answer and off we went on a 5 minute walk to the Grotto. From there, Peter, Damian, Ern and Phil (Pants Off) went onto the Lourdes Baths and had the experience of bathing in the Holy Water. A unique and wonderful thing to do indeed.

It was then a short line up to touch the flowing water of the Grotto. All but Craig and Colin (both non Catholics) participated in this ritual.

Lourdes is a contrast of the extremes. It is a contrast of the tacky commercialism of what would be Religious Tourism and the Deep Spiritual ceremony of the Catholic Church. It is extreme and we were extremely lucky to experience the latter on what was a formal day in the local calender.
We were also fortunate to link up with our new Irish friends and have the introduction to the Grotto and the Baths.

Our Irish friends also introduced us to the World's Best Coffee where they bought us not one but two rounds. Which at 6 pm may well mean some sleepless nights for some in the team.

Over coffee we learned some interesting things about our Irish hosts:

• two of the three are cousins and work in the family business. The business is gaming - poker machines and horse racing and the business operates in the "un regulated" sector of the gaming industry.
• the third runs Northern Ireland's best fish and chip shop.
• all are very successful business people and give a week of their time each year to help with a trip of people from Ireland to Lourdes. This always takes place in the last week of September and they have been doing this for the last 6 years.
• this year, they are part of a team of 45 volunteers from Ireland escorting a group of sick and elderly that numbers 980 - yes 980.
• the biggest group they have helped with was for the 150 year celebration in 2005 - that group from Ireland was over 2000 people.

It was a remarkable couple of hours topped off by a coffee with three very interesting people. I think also when we left them to follow their dinner recommendation, we all had a little feeling of guilt in that we all wondered just what it was they were after. They were after nothing at all other than to help and assist a group of Australian tourists who were showing genuine interest in what was happening on a special day in Lourdes. They even bought the coffee, despite our protests.

Tomorrow it is back to the business and cycling and a fascinating and challenging day.

There is also a new page on the website dedicated to the food and drinks we have been enjoying in France and Switzerland. Please check the photos.

The gallery has also been updated with an additional Ventoux picture or two and the bikes and equipment page has also been updated to include all bike, including Colin's new frame. (how does it look Robbo?)

Phil H's quote of the day - "Everyday of this tour we turn over a rock and find something new and amazing. What other rocks can we possibly turn over next".

Last and by no means least, there is another birthday on the 30th to celebrate - that of Tracy Sheehan. Happy birthday Tracy.

Rolling Country and Ventoux Reflections

An apology to begin with.

Our hotel for the evening turns it Wi Fi off overnight. Apparently guests do not require internet access out of hours. As a result, this update is some hours late.

Secondly, yesterdays account of Ventoux was a little light on. Our group was on a high following the accent of the giant and the subsequent research into the merits of red wine and rose as sports re hydration drinks went late into the night.

Back to Ventoux. We were very lucky to actually have a weather window where we could make the climb.

When describing other climbs we have completed, the word relentless have been used frequently. Ventoux introduces a new meaning to the word relentless. There is no opportunity to recover - at all. Kilometre after kilometre of 9%, 9%, 10%, 9% up and up and up.

The radio tower at the summit is the objective and the mountain plays with your mind. You first sight the tower as you commence kilometre 11 (11 to go) and it looks close - very close.

You then spend the next 5 kilometres or so seemingly getting no closer to the objective.

Then, just when you are contemplating the free fall properties of a carbon fibre bike being hauled off a cliff, you are confronted by the additional challenge of a head breeze. This starts with 8 kilometres to go and then builds until the end. But the forecast was for only a 57 km wind at the summit on our day of accent.

Chateau Reynard sits 6 kilometres from the summit and also represents the last remains of vegetation. The cyclist is now at one with his bike, the strengthening wind, the moonscape terrain and that bastard of a radio mast you are aiming for.

Our group of 7 cyclists had all rounded bend that is Chateau Reynard and were battling the last 6 kilometres to the end. There was a roaring noise from behind and one wondered just what the Ventoux was giving us next. The noise was a fighter jet from the French air force doing a pass of the mountain. We decided it was in celebration of our pending collective achievement.

A little more about the wind on the final 6 kilometres. On the mountain, you are completely exposed. There is no vegetation to protect you from its force. It just 'slams' you and has you at its mercy. You turn a corner and and bang - it whips you from the side of from the front and there is nothing you can do but grit your teeth, hold the bars and keep pedaling. The 9% gradient becomes tougher and tougher. And it is a cold wind too - and the perspiration from the climb has wet you through magnifying the impact of the cold in the wind.

But arriving at the summit is exhilarating and satisfying to the extreme.

We did the photos at the summit, put every piece of warm clothing we had on and descended the 6 kilometres to the Chateau for lunch and shopping.

Back at the hotel, post ride beers were enjoyed in wonderful spirits. Dinner involved many pizzas (plus one salad) and multiple bottles of Ventoux Rouge and Rose.

Moving to our latest day, it was a quite tired group who set out from Orange bound for Nimes. Phil took the day off to try and get over his cold symptoms while the rest of us were keen to turn our legs over and enjoy some wonderful riding conditions.

We pushed through some sensational French country side and crossed a wonderful bridge at Caderousse where we saw a power station.

It was then onto Laudun-L'Ardoise where we had morning tea.

A few bumps and more magnificent riding later at it was lunch in the beautiful town of Pont St Nicolas.

A long down hill run, an 8 k uphill and then a long downhill found us in the centre of Nimes and almost at our hotel.

It was a wonderful days cycling through some beautiful country side in perfect French weather.

The Giant of Provence

The "Giant of Provence" is something else.

Col de la Madelaine was quite something but you could not really see it in its supreme magnitude because it was part of other mountain passes.

Mt Ventoux is the Giant of Provence and it is made even more daunting because you can see from far away just what lays before you,

But let not me be the one to describe the Ventoux.

I will instead quote notable British cycling writer on his first view of the Giant when he wrote:

"And suddenly, there, in what seems like another world, miles away, rises a preposterously large mountain into a torn blue sky. Incalculably vast and aloof, a naked summit, white as monumental alabaster, the bloodless white of death, topped by a radio mast, like a steeple. so remote that I imagine any roads going up there must belong to different scales of tick tock and map measurements , with time locks between them and the road I am riding. A real ogre with winter in its hair, a gale screaming out of its throat and an extremely uncomfortable way of staring at a body. I didn't want to believe this was Ventoux, I couldn't believe this wasn't Ventoux. It was Ventoux alright"

The above pretty much sums up Mt Ventoux, the Giant of Provence.

Unlike the mountains of the Alps, this bastard stands aloof. We could not really see the summit of Madelaine because it was a part of many other Cols. There is nothing about Ventoux to disguise its height and gradient. It stands alone in all its frightening awesomeness.

This is not only an iconic mountain of Le Tour, but an iconic mountain of the world of cycling.

It is said that until you conquer the fear of Ventoux, you cannot call yourself a real cyclist.

Our band of 7 cyclists are now 'real'.

Phil H said " this is the ultimate cycling challenge - nothing comes close

Mick W said on completion of the climb - " Ventoux is relentless but at the same time rewarding"
Damian's comments were " the achievement of the group as a whole is a testament to the group but I was not prepared for the incredible vista as we emerged from the forest with 6 k's to go

Peter has been here before however on the 2006 tour the accent was via the far easier route. He was pleased to have ascended by way of the much harder route out of Bedoin and said he "took much satisfaction from seeing the pleasure of the group passing the much harder roads from Bedoin".

After the extreme challenge of Madelaine a few days ago, it was inevitable that comparisons would be drawn between the two climbs.

Craig considered Ventoux to be easier while Phil thought it far, far tougher. Colin wants to do Madelaine again in fine weather before deciding whereas Damian believes they are both bastards.

Mt Ventoux is a famous climb for cyclists. We want to test ourselves on her slopes. Today, the winds had dropped to an horrific level of only 58 kph. Yesterday it was 100 kph. Since when has 58kph been easy? But Ventoux is different

We were fortunate that there was a fine weather opportunity to allow us reasonable access. In planning the 2010 route, Peter and Greg M were keen to ascend the mountain from the more exposed and difficult starting point of Bedoin and pleasingly, this proved to be possible.

Peter and Damian crossed the summit literally a spoke distance apart followed by Colin, Ern, Craig, Phil and Mick. There were two heroes today with Mick and Phil dragging their 100 kg bodies up and over what is one of the most demanding climbs in the world of cycling.

A Mirage fighter from the French air force performed a fly by the mountain to celebrate our achievement. Spectacular.

There are photos in the gallery however be sure to catch the video of the day when it it released as we had two bike mounted cameras and one car camera catching all the action.

Tomorrow we head for Nimes however we are fully aware that it will take another significant mountain challenge to match the ecstasy that we all feel today. We cannot wait until the Pyrenees.

In summary, Mt Ventoux was the greatest day any of us have had on the bike and we have celebrated tonight as only Australian's can . (Rose and all)

If you have not yet done Ventoux, start planning now - because you must - from Bedoin

We swap cycling for food

The Provence region is known for it winds and its food.

Consequently, we avoided its winds and sought out its food, and some of its history in a very interesting day.

But first some background.

Very, very strong winds greeted our tour group this morning and Craig, Peter, Ern and Colin set out on an exploratory ride around the city of Orange to determine if the art of cycling was a safe art to pursue today. After some 7 kilometres and many severe 'wind bullets' a coffee stop was had and the general decision was that it certainly was not safe.

We are talking winds that make the bike impossible to control and launch it sideways either into the gutter or into traffic. Following a two coffee (and tea) stop it was decided that continuing with our ride plans was not wise.

However, there was much to see and do in the region.

We arranged alternative transport and targeted Chateauneuf-du-Pape and the Pont du Gard.

Chateauneuf-du-Pape is a small village boasting a fascinating history of being the home of the Pope when Pope Clement V relocated his residency in 1308. This resulted in the development of the wine industry which continues today.

After a walking tour of the town, we settled down to a glorious lunch with most of us selecting whole Calamari to go with our local wine ( see gallery),

After lunch, we proceeded to the Pont du Gard and simply marvelled at the structure of some 2000 years before. One cannot help but wonder if the foresight and leadership that allowed the Roman's to develop significant infrastructure could be applied in Western Society today. If only.

Again - see gallery for photos.

Dinner was a special treat in that we were joined by Peter, John and Guy who are Business Associates of Phil H and have travelled from London to ride the famous Mt Ventoux with us.

It was a day of disappointment in that we were unable to ride to Chateaubeuf-du-Pont and Pont du Gard. However our alternative arrangements were great in that we managed to visit these icons and the food we enjoyed (and wine) was sensational.

Tomorrow we have determined we will take on the might of Ventoux, irrespective of what the weather throws at us. The subsequent update should be epic as this is one heck of a mountain with terrain quite unlike any other.

Ventoux day is looming.

Sense won out in day of disappointment

Today completes week one of the cycling content of the 2010 tour.

Our evening dinner included each of us outlining how we became involved in cycling which is after all, the commencement of the path which we came along to be here. Each participants' story was interesting and there was largely a common thread involved. Certainly, no one ever had any perception of doing what we are doing in France and Switzerland.

Dinner included local produce and local cooking styles including rabbit, beef, fish, ice creams and sorbets, goats cheese and local salads. A local red wine was also sampled and many readers will know about Peter's obsession with Rose. His rate of converting his colleagues to Rose is not nearly as high at it was during the 2006 edition of the tour. (but it is early days).

We awoke this morning feeling ok but certainly not as fresh as previous mornings due almost certainly to the extreme efforts of yesterday.

We were greeted by a cold, wet morning and after some investigation it was revealed that the forecast for Alp d'Huez was for freezing rain and snow.

We discussed the merits of attempting such a climb in these conditions. It was thought that climbing the famous Alp was certainly a possibility however descending in such conditions was insane - or at least an un-necessary risk.

With much collective disappointment, we cancelled our day on the saddle. With the weather closing in and forecast to stay the way it is for another 3 days, we decided to head straight for Orange where the forecast was much more encouraging and where the Monster of Provence awaited us - Mt Ventoux. (scheduled for Monday).

Six of us made the train connections to Orange while Craig travelled in the van with "Pants off Phil". We all arrived at the same time.

An exploration of the town of Orange followed including a late lunch and several coffees.

There is a big concert tonight in the old Roman Amphitheatre by 'French Pink Floyd'. Different.

We checked out the old Chapel and the local version of the Arc de Triomphe constructed over a period of 50 years and now stands proud after some 2000 years.

Alp d'Huez is perhaps the number one iconic ride for cyclists the world over so it was extremely disappointing to have to make the decision to by pass it. Howevcr, this simply means we are each determined to return to the Alps another time and to tame the beast.

It is however great to know that we have multiple nights in the same hotel and a chance to catch up on some washing etc and plan the details of the next week or so.

One week in, we are a happy, contented satisfied tour group looking forward with excitement to the next week. We are getting fitter, stronger, gaining in confidence and experience and even improving our collective abilities to communicate in the local language.

We really appreciate your feedback about our blog be it by way of comments on the site, e-mails or text messages. Thank you. We are also thrilled to learn we are sometimes a point of discussion at Brisbane post ride coffee.

Today is disappointing in many ways but such is life. It also continues the trend so far where each and every day is totally different from the ones before it.

Wind and Rain and Fire (and yes - snow)

Phil H - "The toughest day ever, anywhere, anytime"

Mick W - Toughest day on a bike since Around the Bay in a Day 2004 when paramedics were called to deal with cyclist hypothermia at Queenscliffe

Peter S - I've got nothing to say

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But lets start at the beginning.

A latish breakfast by our standards was followed by a reasonably easy negotiation of some Annecy traffic to the bike path along the Western side of the Lake.

It was raining but not heavily and this gave us a different perspective of the beautiful lake to that we witnessed the previous afternoon.

We rolled along the path at a leisurely 20 kph and eventually leaving lake behind and following a series of bike paths almost all the way through to Albertville.

During this time, we each recorded our thoughts about what lay ahead - that is the 26 km accent of the Hors Category Col De La Madelaine. The comments recorded pre climb are:

Phil - Nervous to the extreme about what lays ahead. What am I doing here?

Ern - Confident I will do a good climb, just need to set my own pace and keep within my limits and all will be fine

Peter - I am sh--ing myself

Colin - This is the climb I have been fearing the most. It is very long and my first big climb

Mick - I see it as a scientific experiment. (Mick added some physics formulas that referred to gravity, mass and velocity)

Craig - I gained a lot of confidence from yesterday and am confident I will make it.

Damian - It is pretty scary but I am excited by the challenge and really looking forward to it.

At Albertville, we consumed the obligatory baguette lunch and rolled out of town just as the rain again started to fall.

From there, we had another 30 or so minutes to the start of the climb. At one stage, Peter dropped back to the writer to comment that virtually all conversational banter had ceased suggesting there was a degree of nervous expectation within our group.

It was also notable that we stopped for a greater than usual number of natural breaks during the day.

With little notice, we came to the foot of the climb and stopped to unload any weight we could from our bikes - pumps, saddle bags, lights etc. We also filled water bottles, most discarded helmets and in now clearing weather and 17 degrees, did away with rain jackets, arm and leg warmers and all but Ern and Mick discarded gillets. A number of us also took to the bushes with the appropriate tissue.

A photo stop at the climbs commencement followed and we were off.

The first 15 k's were generally accepted as being quite comfortable. The gradients for each kilometre are sign posted and with the exception of a 9% and an 8%, were between 2% and 6%. Most were even using the big chain ring from time to time.

At around kilometre 13 we became engulfed in quite thick fog but it was still comfortable and the temperature had not really fallen.

Between kilometres 15 and 16, we broke through the fog and were hit by a strong and cold head wind and increasingly heavy rain which subsequently almost became sleet.

In addition, from the 15 k to 24 k mark, the minimum gradient was 8% (and only one at 8%). However this does not tell the full story. When you reach a marker that says the next kilometre has an average gradient of 10% and you then travel the first 500 metres at around 2%, you are aware that the balance of the k is going to be a lot more than 10% and it repeatedly was like this.
The temperature dropped, the wind increased and the rain became heavier.

Damian was first up the Col shivering into the the bar at the summit desperate to warm up. He was followed by Peter who reported the difficulty of holding his handle bar due to the cold.

Ern followed soon after, then Colin and Craig.

Phil and Mick completed the climb in developing sleet and not long after, it began to snow - yes snow.

The temperature had dropped by 14 degrees before the Col was climbed.

It became impossible to squeeze water from a bottle or even take a gel out of a pocket such was the coldness of our hands.

We were shaking and distressed as we completed the climb and the bar did a roaring trade in coffee and tea.

Peter had 6 coffees in 35 minutes, Colin 8 teas as the surroundings turned to snow white.

With the weather worsening, we discussed what we would do. Our destination for the day was St Jean du Maurienne.

Damian was concerned that he was suffering the start of a virus so along with Phil H and Mick W, decided to take their bikes and join "Pants Off" in the van and seek accommodation in the nearer town of Le Chambre. Those remaining would wait out the weather and then proceed down the Col and join them (the weather seemed to be clearing). Between the making of this decision and the packing of the van, the snow fall increased and it was decided that descending the Col by bike any time soon was not going to be sensible. The 'Van Team' took all but two bikes and set off in search of accommodation while Ern, Colin, Peter and Craig ordered more coffee and tea to await the return of the van.

Peter used some unique negotiating methods to get us into the unused restaurant area and the warmth of a fire place and we rewarded the owner with the purchase of a local bottle of red.

Settled beside a warm fire, sipping a fine local red while the outside was turning to a classic scene of white was not a bad way of recalling an incredible day when 6 of us ascended our first ever French Alp and all of us succeeded on Madelaine for the first time (PB's as Damian had put it).

Another bottle of red passed and those left at the Col were almost disappointed when "Pants Off" returned to collect us.

As Peter said "This puts a whole new perspective on the notion of Friday afternoon drinks"

We all reunited at the Etap in Le Chambre and managed to find the only restaurant open for the night.

Today was monumental. The climb, the weather, the snow - everything about it is memorable.

We are almost a week into our cycling adventure and every day has been so totally different.

Just what tomorrow and the iconic Alp d'Huez will present us is any ones guess.

We just want it to come quickly.

Check the new photos in the gallery. Also the normal apology applies along with the news that Mick may have come up with an idea so this site will think it is being accessed from Australia. This means it can be written and corrected in English and not via French.

Annecy Tonight

Thrills and Spills (but more thrills) Continued

We will start by expanding on what was a sensational day yesterday and again, apologies for the lack of a reasonable update yesterday. We even had a complaint that the blog was not updated by 8.00 am Brisbane time.

Yesterday was an incredible day.

We left St Grindolph headed for Gruyers however we actually stayed a little beyond Gruyers in the outskirts of Evian.

The first section of our journey was fabulous at the time as we had little knowledge of what was was to come. We rode through sensational undulating roads dropping in and out of small villages. It was as if we were at one with the road and the surrounds.

We maintained a steady but sensible pace and were hardly aware that we were actually gaining altitude with every kilometre.

And then it happened.

We came around a corner and over our left shoulder was Lake Geneva and the township of Vevey.

We then proceeded down largely traffic free roads for kilometre after kilometre with the most amazing scenes opening up in front of us. On one side we had the mountains in our sight while on the other was the expanding panama of the Lake.

It was switchback after switchback for 30 or more minutes as we progressed down the hill in a ride that none of us wanted to end. On and on we went as expanses of vineyard, grazing and pasture opened up below us. It was truly amazing and again, beyond the word smith abilities of the writer to describe in the confines of this article.

Phil H withdrew his Sunday comment and described the day as including his best ever decent. (one shot of the decent is in the gallery - taken while on the bike, on the move by Craig.

Craig has taken some amazing video footage and we look forward to sharing it all with you. His still shots are also amazing and it will only be through these that an understanding of the decent will be had.

We all were experiencing a combination of awe and excitement and then disappointment as we became aware the town was near.

Colin was in the lead position going into the decent and had the honour of leading us on this incredible ride. Less than 500 metres from the bottom, a call was made to slow it up and bunch up before the round about and unable to hear, Colin called back to seek clarification. In doing so, he caught a ridge then the curb and hit the ground - bad shoulder first. Shaken but not stirred, it was determined the only thing broken was his pride and rear derailleur plus some grazes and a torn jersey. (the torn precious tour jersey being the most painful of all - so far anyway).

Mick located a bike shop, "Pants off" collected the rider and bike and to the bike shop we all went.

The shop owner said it can be fixed but would take an hour or 3 so off we went to lunch.

Lunch was pizza (for 7) and a few beers in a little place on the shore of the lake. It was an amazing venue in an amazing place and the beers were justified by us only having 15 k's to go.

(see photo of pizza in the gallery)

Leaving Colin behind, the plan was for the rest to ride to our accommodation and then Ern was returning at 3pm in the van to ride back with Colin.

The main group rolled out of Vevey along a scenic bike path on the lake heading for Montreaux where they stopped at the venue of the famous jazz festival for photos with the statues of the musicians, checked out the re-built gambling house (refer Deep Purple's Smoke on the Water) and generally soaked up the atmosphere of the place.

Meanwhile, the part needed for Colin's bike was proving to be made out of 'unobtainiam' and a problem was emerging - the part could be here in 3 weeks, maybe. The full story is an entire separate article of its own and may well be recorded at another time. The bottom line is, taking old American bikes (his is circa 2003) with 9 speed Japanese gears is not a good idea if you have any expectation that a bike shop within 300 kilometers will have spare parts.

To cut a long story short, Colin is now riding a Jordan frame (http://www.jordan.ch/).

There is a lot more to this story and perhaps expanding on it at a post river ride coffee is in order.

Dinner was preceded by many beers (while waiting for Colin, Ern and "Pants Off" and a fabulous meal was enjoyed hosted by the husband and wife hotel owners.

This was a brilliant day. Switzerland must be included in Euro cycling trips. Perhaps the next trip should start on the Italy/Swiss border, cross Switzerland and end in France.

The only downside to the day is the uncertainty surrounding train transport. We are due for a short Thursday ride, a train trip and a loop of Lake Annecy however there is a strike planned for France and we may have to ride.

Thursday 23 September

The most glorious day greeted us in Evian this morning and a local breakfast of breads and home made jams was provided by our hosts.

Bags packed, van loaded and we set off with the first target being Thonon les-Bains where it was intended we would stop at the train station to determine of trains were in fact running.

If there were to be no trains, 2 of us would go in the van to Annecy with "Pants Off" and locate accommodation while the rest of us would keep riding. When accommodation was located and the bags un-packed, the van would come back and pick up another 2 cyclists and this would continue until we were all in Annecy for the loop around the lake (TdF time trial course in 2008 and 2006 tour group's last ride).

We travelled good, scenic, but at times busy roads often along the lake as we made our way through to Thonon les-Bains. We passed through Evian proper and Phil H vowed and declared he will be back in Evian. Now this might sound impressive to you however Phil H makes this comment several times every day and we can only assume he is re-locating to Switzerland and France.

We found the train station and discovered that limited services were running in the afternoon.

Without time to blink, Phil H and Mick W were 'cleats off, bikes in the van, and ready to go' hunt accommodation in Annecy. We were held up by a protest march in Thonon les-Bains in support of the strike and to get properly into the local spirit, "Pants Off' Joined the procession for 100 or so metres.

The van left with Phil H and Mick W while the rest mounted and set out.

Immediately, the road turned skywards. And immediately - not after a kilometers, or 200 metres but immediately.

And up we went for 'ever'. We did not actually realise it at the time but we were climbing the 1027 metre Col Jambaz. We left Thonon les Bains at about 10 am and stopped about half way up for lunch at around midday. This thing just went forever. We were probably doing 15 - 18 kph deliberately not trying to blow up so it was not super steep but it was truly relentless.

The decent that followed was seriously fun. Those who follow Le Tour may recall the chase by Cancellara in 2008 to catch the peleton after a flat when the cameras could not keep up with him. We don't know if this was the road but it was certainly very similar.

The only problem (in hindsight) was that we damn near dropped to sea level again.

It was then a case of setting up our working groups, putting our heads down and riding the flat roads for the next 25 k's largely into a stiffening head wind; we were fighting to push 20 kph.

And then.................. some 40 k's from Annecy, the road turned skywards again and were set about the accent of Col d'Eviers and its 810 metres. Our computers at this time were showing 31 degrees, water was running short and we were all very much aware of the huge day ahead tomorrow.

In the meantime, "Pants off" and his accommodation location team of Phil and Mick were desperately seeking out places to stay. There is a convention on in Annecy and virtually 2 rooms only left which they managed to secure at the Hotel De Alps. It is a cosy night indeed.

Back to the road. We crossed the Col in increasingly heavy traffic and all but completed the decent when the van arrived to pick us up. It was 5 bikes, Craig, Ern and Damian in the back and we were off.

We were hot, tired and relieved. It had been an incredibly hard but satisfying day and as we rolled to stop at the van, Peter announced his computer had just clicked over to 100 kph. (it was another 24 to the hotel)

The notable effort on the bike today was Craig. He suffered greatly on the first climb and then turned himself inside out to hold a wheel on the second climb. A fabulous effort on a day unlike any other he has had on the bike.

As we approached our accommodation, we were again delayed by another protest march.

We showered, changed and headed out to see the amazing old section of Annecy and to have a look at the lake. We then managed a quick beer or two followed by a much needed dinner at "le Beau Soleil" which is also the restaurant visited by the 2006 Tour Group after their final ride.

Tomorrow we take on our first Col of the Swiss Alps - the very long Col de la Madelaine. We are looking forward to this with varying degrees of trepidation - but we all have some trepidation.

Again, please forgive the spelling etc. When using the blogger site in France, you deal with French, so it is not straight forward. There are also some new photos in the gallery.

Thanks to everyone for the feedback and we are pleased to know we are a topic of Brisbane post ride conversation.

Apologies

We are struggling with Internet connections tonight and cannot post a significant update. A proper update will be done tomorrow.

This again was the best day of all.

Switzerland is incredible and thanks to Greg and Peter for including it on this years itinerary.

Today is now the "new" best decent Phil H has ever done.

The downside (apart from Internet) is that Colin came off at approximately 45 kph. The bike is damaged more than he is but some time at the local bike shop followed by a new frame and he is right to go.

We have a local train strike here tomorrow so a longer day than originally planned is now on the agenda.

Apologies for cutting this short but the internet here is a problem and thanks for everyone for the feed back about this blog (apart from Sheryl complaining about the spelling - you try dealing with a blog that only gives you German and French to deal with).

More - much more tomorrow.

In case you have not yet understood the message, Switzerland is a must for European cycling tours.

Bike Path, a pass of the Alps and a wonderful destination

21 September 2010

Quote - Phil H at 2.25 pm today on the summit of Juan Pass (1508 metres)

"This is the greatest day I have ever had on the bike"

Quote - Mick W at 6.25 pm today at Gruyeres

"Today was the toughest and most picturesque day I have ever had on the bike"

And a great day it was too with all tour participants making their first ever accent of a Pass in the Swiss Alps.

But there was a great deal more to the day than the Juan Pass.

A perfect clear bright and sunny day greeted us this in Bern this morning and for the first time we had an 'all inclusive' breakfast deal. Craig was pleased as he claims to already be 'over' bakeries and bread while the coffee lovers managed a coffee before the departe (and Colin put away 5 cups of tea to make up for the absence of same the previous 4 days).

And it was a different departe too as it commenced with us carrying our bikes up some 30 stairs to prepare for the glorious roll down the kilometre of two to the centre of Bern. However there was somewhat of a delay. There is a bile shop at the top of the stairs and it happened to have a logo on the far right, top of the window of a certain bike brand from Germany (I think it is Germany). It was decided that a team photo taking in the shop. the tour team and the bike brand was essential and this should immediately be sent to a cycling colleague in Brisbane.

The attempt was abandoned after many attempts as it was only possible to include 2 of the required subjects on the photo opportunity without risking life an limb from passing traffic. (apologies Canyon Man - Robbo, but we certainly tried)

A quick check of on board computers told us it was 10 degrees as we rolled down the slope to Berne with the most glorious combination of the city buildings, bridge over the river and the Alps in the background greeted us. It was however a little embarrassing being overtaken by a local commuter in a single speed with a basket on the front. We figured she was younger than Ern but older than the rest of us.

Through the city we went and on to the bile path along the Aaire River with the first objective being Tohn. This was no ordinary bike path. From the path we were able to locate Antelopes on the opposite bank in the wild Bear path together with Boar and other animals (no Bears though). The path was often bitumen and often gravel but the scenery almost in-describable. This path tool us all the way through to Tohn, some 50 kilometres from our starting point. We went from beside the river, to fields, an airport and grazing cattle all with bells around their necks and the combined noise of the bells was as if they were cheering us on.

We had a delay in Tohn caused as Peter suffered a mechanical. His bike was perfect in every way however the prunes of the night before resulted in an altogether different mechanical.

Ern and Damian took advantage of the delay and visited the tourist office. Between the two of them, Mick and his GPS and advice from the Van driver "pants off Phil" (S not H) it was decided we could cut some 30 or so kilometres off our planed route.

We then proceeded to follow bike path 8 and this too was a combination of paved paths, gravel, glorious bridges over running streams and a secret defence establishment run by SAAB. We missed a turn off and found ourselves at the entrance of a defence facility of the Swiss Government operated by SAAB. It was obvious we should not be there and we high tailed it out of there while at the some time thinking there was perhaps some sensational footage of us captured on security cameras. Fortunately, we only had to retrace a kilometre or two and it was all down hill.

We lunched in a small township, refilled water bottles and set off to locate our short cut.

"Pants off Phil' (Phil S), our van driver, had gone straight to Gruyers to arrange accommodation and arranged to meet us back along the road at the base of a short climb. By this time it was 28 degrees and we were all keen to shed arm warmers and Gillet's. Phil had also driven back along our route and provided what we thought would be valuable (and accurate) information.

Phil's information went something like this:

• We faced an easy 3 k up hill
• There were a number of switchbacks on the hill
• 20 minutes should do it
• The temperature dropped considerably making it easier

It was with a great deal of optimism that we set off on what Mick described as "an easy version of 2 Coot-tha's."

Over the next hour we were to learn some very important facts:

1. Phil S's ability to judge distance is no existent
2. His definition of easy is unique to him and him only
3. A few switchbacks rarely means there are 13
4. His time horizons are his and his alone
5. He has a problem with temperature

The 'hill' in question was the Juan Pass. It is 8 k's plus and climbs to 1508 metres. The easy sections (and there are few) appear to be equivalent to the hardest sections of the back of Mt Coot-tha and the temperature di d drop at the top - by 3 degrees to 25 degrees.

This was a bastard of a climb so early in our adventure.

Having said that, we all made it up with Peter and Damian fighting it out for the KoM points followed by Ern, Colin and Phil H.

There was mass exhilaration as each of us reached the peak and we celebrated with a photo when we all arrived.

We then kitted up for the decent and had a glorious high speed run on great roads with the dare devils in the group (Ern) reaching just on 80 kph (he said he was holding back too and could have gone quicker). We completed the 50 or so kilometre undulating run through townships and scenery that was out of this world to Gruyeres.

More importantly, the outlook on the accent was amazing. We all agreed (well all accept Craig) that Switzerland is the most amazingly beautiful country populated by very warm and friendly people. (Craig has a different view about the people) Unfortunately, it is beyond the ability of this author to describe the sheer beauty and variety of the sights we have witnessed today.

Phil H and Mick's word above reflect what we all feel and I think we are all of the opinion that exploring this country by bike means you see, feel, hear and smell things that are missed by all other means of transport. It truly challenges all of the senses. To a person we have said we will be coming back here and are staying longer than the 3 days allocated on this tour (anyone keen to come with us).

Our evening destination of the ancient township and castle of Gruyeres is stunning too and I urge the reader to go to the Route Map section of this blog, scroll down to today and read about the town for yourself.

We are staying at the Hostellerie Des Chevaliers which is about 50 or so metres down from the main town.

Before finishing, I must make mention of an inspirational happening today. Be assured, the climb up the Juan Pass was tough. One of our team members came away with virtually zero preparation due to the business pressures of the last 4 years. Peter and Damian cleared out and Ern, Colin Phil and Craig were quite close to each other completing the accent. The inspirational effort was by Mick W who was only a minute or so behind Craig and completed on zero preparation what was a hell of a hard climb. While he was last up the climb, he made it and was only a minute or so behind. An inspiration to us all.

We are a tired, happy and contented and well feed unit tonight (one of us had a local rabbit dish, 6 had deer and one perch).

Tomorrow is an easier day and we get to "all ride down from Montreuz on the Lake Geneva shoreline" (apologies to those who don't know the iconic Deep Purple number).

Finally, another quote this time from our van driver, Phil S

"You fellows worked so hard getting up that hill you will be slicing tap washers from your

butts tonight".

No one is quite sure just what this means but we are sure it is appropriate (or not).

For the third time, I seek your understanding of the late hour and the struggle of a spell checker on the site that only operates in German. There are a few photos from today in the gallery page.

Champagne and Switzerland

21 September 2010

Lets begin with the end of the day as the author sits in the 'computer room' of a rather old and quaint hotel about 10 minutes walk from the centre of Bern, Switzerland.

Naturally, all but one of us had various versions of veal this evening in an outdoor restaurant near the centre of the City. The service was superb and the food excellent with friendly service.

From a language viewpoint, it has actually been difficult transitioning from French to German and somewhat of a surprise that in this area of Switzerland German is preferred over French.

But back now to the day that was.

This turned out to be a spectacular day indeed.

We departed Epernay at about 7.15 am in a clear but cold environment.

We ventured to the house of Moet Chandon for photos and spent 10 minutes chatting to a couple from Newcastle, NSW.

From there we wound our way out of Epernay proper to spend the next couple of hours on very quiet, undulating road through beautiful valleys, forests and villages.

Is there any better aroma than the small of fermenting, high quality champagne.

Breakfast was at a small bakery in a tiny town followed by a long upward pass through an amazing forest.

The scenery on both sides of the road down the valleys and up to the hills with the ever present champagne vines was breathtaking and we don't think we will ever get sick of riding through the quaint and quiet towns along the way.

Our ultimate destination today was Bern in Switzerland and this involved us making a TGV connection by a certain time.

It was getting a little tight for time meaning that for about 40 minutes we transitioned from wide eyed tourists to hard core cycling machines and hammered the road for the station. With some downward gradients, tail winds and speeds of 60 kph plus we made the station with minutes to spare. A quick rush to locate passports followed only to discover we had a station attendant who had less knowledge of out language than we had of his. Fortunately, he located an English speaking colleague and the deal was done.

It was then a rapid change of clothes, bikes and bags in the van and back to catch the train, which was now listed as being delayed by 30 minutes.

While most of us waited, Mick acted as navigator for Phil on an 8 hour drive to Bern.

Our first leg was to Strasbourg where we caught a connection to Basle for a further connection to Bern.

All went well at Strasbourg. Not so for Basle.

We were travelling along chatting, editing photos and generally solving the problems of the world. The train stopped at various stations so we didn't pay much attention on this particular stop until two rail staff started walking through the train collecting rubbish. We dutifully handed over our rubbish when Peter asked Phil H what station we were at - answer Basle.

Computer were packed and we were off rapidly along platform 2 trying to locate the platform for the Bern connection. When we did find the board for train schedules, it said 'Platform 9 at 4.27 pm'. It was now 4.24 pm

It was a run through a very busy station, up and down escalators only to hear the whistle sounding on Platform 7 for the departure and doors were closing.

Craig was leading the run and managed to put his arm in the door some 6 inches before it closed. Peter was next to arrive and between them the door was forced open and the rest of us piled in.

A very close call indeed.

One of the fascinating things as we moved towards Switzerland was the changing architecture. It is quite stark.

Bern is quite something. It has the longest trams and impressively, a huge bike commuter population.

The main commercial area is quite spectacular and very beautiful with its cobbled street and period buildings. It could be a movie set.

Be sure to join us tomorrow for a 136 km ride through the valleys of this region of Switzerland as we track the border South towards the Alps.

(again - spelling apologies - it is late and the spell check function is German)

Let the Ride Begin - 19 September 2010

Officially, the first bike session of this years tour took place on Saturday afternoon with a slow and steady wind through the afternoon traffic of Paris to the Eiffel Tower for some photo opportunities.

Upon arrival at the Tower, we were immediately approach by a group of women asking us questions about where we're from etc. It transpired that they were at the Tower awaiting the arrival of a cycling group riding from London to Paris to raise funds for Alzheimer's Disease. They were meeting their husbands who were part of a 70 cyclist group and they assumed we were the leading group (naturally).

They were very interested in what we were doing.

We also were approached by several other individuals asking about our jerseys and two ladies from Atlanta Georgia engaged two of us in a longer conversation which included discussion about the time one of them spent in Brisbane in 2000.

Photos taken, we moved off and wound our way back to the hotel .

The impact our appearance was having was remarkable and it seems out tour jerseys are really quite striking.

We experienced applause from bystanders, high fives from pedestrians and questions at the majority of red lights we stopped at. And Paris must be the worlds capital of traffic lights.


We then changed, "did beers" and dined at the Pyrenees Restaurant where we were joined by a local who is a business associate of Mick's. It was wonderful having a local join us and he spent most of the night fielding our many questions.

It was back to our rooms then to prepare for the big day today.

The 2006 tour by Brisbane's finest commenced with a parade down the Champs-Elysees and two laps of the Arc de Triomphe. We considered this worth replicating and as such, to give birth to a tradition.

We assembled at 7 am ready to roll and Ern decided that a flat rear tyre was immediately in order. This was repaired and we were away.

Our two laps of the Arc completed, and Ern 'flated' again.

We started to make our way out of Paris via a quick breakfast stop and quickly discovered two things:

1. There are few similarities between road maps and actual roads.
2. There a few reasonable road signs
3. The traffic lights of Paris are frustrating
4 It is unlikely a road that ran East yesterday, was now running west.

It was a struggle and one made all the more so when we found ourselves on a 130 kph "A road" (but not before Ern again punctured)

This was a very scary 30 minutes or more and we only pulled off after nearly losing Craig in an "almost fall". It is a mystery how he kept the Cannondale upright.

We pulled off and ended up being helped by a local group of masters cyclist out for a training ride who helped us get back on to our intended route. ( see Route Map page of this blog).

We clocked 155 kilometers to Epernay in a most wonderful day. It was also a physically demanding day.

The scenery, roads, courtesy of drivers and warmth of weather coupled with the interest many locals showed in us to all provide us with a most special experience.

Mandatory evening beers on arrival were enjoyed by a happy, tired and very excited group and this continued over dinner, where of course we sampled the famed local produce. Epernay is after all, the centre of the universe when it comes to champagne.

A great day was had by all.

Tomorrow is as short day in the saddle followed by a train transfer to Switzerland.

(apologies for spelling etc - it is late)

17 September 2010

Paris, France

And then there were seven, and soon to be eight.

Our tour group grew rapidly today with the morning arrivals of Ern, Craig and Phil H, to join Colin who arrived yesterday evening and Mick who had been in Paris since Tuesday.

Mid afternoon saw the arrival of Damian and Peter to all but complete the group with only Phil S to come in later this evening.

Importantly, all bikes have arrived in what at first look, appeared to be in good condition, That is no frames or folks damaged and all derailleurs look to be in working condition.

While Mick's bike has arrived in good condition, his other bag has somehow gone missing between Brisbane and Paris. All indications are that it is stranded in Hong Kong, which is interesting given Mick's route to Paris was via Tokyo and not Hong Kong.

The early morning arrivals interrupted the leisurely breakfast of Colin and Mick and all were soon out the door bound for the train station for the short journey into the spiritual heart of Paris and the well known attractions.

We experienced a timely security warning on the train when Craig fortunately felt the work of a pick pocket Roma on his coat pocket and proceeded to at first abuse her and then to suggest she seek an alternative occupation as she really was not very good at her current roll of a pick pocket.

The latest news on Mick's bag is that it has landed in Paris however it is now waiting on someone to scan it through the system and it seems this is more complex than simply picking it up and scanning it, The drama continues.

Our hotel is interesting. It is 300 years old although has only served as a hotel for 200 years. It has the world's narrowest stairs and getting a bag, let alone a bike bag up 6 flights (Colin and Mick) is a serious test of endurance. Colin and Mick are certainly wondering if the luxury room is worth the extra walk on the very steep and very narrow stairs,

Every night so far the street noise is significant. It appears the French air force is using the area to practice landings and take offs of their Harrier jump jets. It is loud and aggressive although Mick has convinced himself it is a train and not a jet.

The morning crew (Mick, Colin, Ern, Craig and Phil H did the tourist run visiting the Eiffel Tower, Arc de Triomphe and strolling the Champs Elyees.

A special lunch was also enjoyed by all.

The afternoon and the arrival of Peter and Damian all but completed the tour group.

Some house keeping took place and a long walk to dinner via the Notre Darme followed.

It may come of some surprise but no one does Italian quite like the French. Six of the most superb Pizza's and one salmon pasta proved it is all about the ingredients.

By this time Phil S had arrived and set about entertaining himself in some of the best bars in Paris.

All in all, a great start to Paris.

The Bike, The Wine, The Life

The idea was hatched by Peter and Damian back in September. 2009

The idea was to cycle around France, learning about the culture, enjoying the wine and food, absorbing the scenery and meeting the locals in the small villages of France that exist, survive and prosper off the main roads and highways. The idea is also to explore some of the roads made famous by 100 years of the worlds largest and greatest annual sporting event, The Tour de France (Le Tour).

Runners dream of the challenge of a marathon or ultra marathon. Of testing their resolve in the toughest running event. Cyclist dream of the physical and mental challenge of the iconic mountains of Le Tour,; the Ventoux, Alpe d'Huez and Tourmalet to name a few.

Progressively, Phil, Craig, Mick, Adrian, Colin, Greg and Ern signed up for the adventure. Sadly, for different reasons both Adrian and Greg will not be joining us.

It all started to come together in March when Greg set about a huge research project to design a tour route. A credit to Greg's effort is that over the following months, his original plan has stayed almost entirely intact. A big thank you to Greg.

Adrian withdrew due to business reasons. As luck would have it, he had a fall from the bike last week and broke his wrist.

We will miss not having Greg and Adrian on tour and will surely raise the odd glass of fine French wine in their honour.

The exodus from Brisbane begins tomorrow.

Ern is heading first to Singapore to spend a few days with Anders, a cycling colleague of us all from his time in Brisbane while Mick is on a direct route for Paris to get things settled ready for the big 'departe'.

Colin, Craig, Phil, Phil, Damian and Peter all make their way to Paris via ports including Singapore, London, Dubai and wherever it is the Phil's are first going to and coming from. We will however all be as one in Paris by Friday afternoon.

Packing is the challenge. Qantas allows only 23 kilograms checked baggage while Emirates allow 30. Qantas however is more generous with cabin baggage. When you start with 8 kilograms of bike and a 5 kilogram bike bag and add the essential cycling gear, there is not much left before excess baggage cuts in.

And fitting the partially dismantled bike into the bike bag is a challenge. Seat posts are fixed on many late model bikes and bike bags are not necessarily flexible to accommodate this. Handle bars just make it so it is a tight fit indeed with 'millimetres to spare' reports Damian.

What started in earnest in March, has come around extraordinarily quickly.

Join us for the next of many more 'trips of a lifetime'.