It's not about the bike - at least not today

Our day has been one of contradiction and I guess confrontation. It has also been about new friends and some unique experiences.

In saying this, I am not referring to the train transfer by 6 of us from Nimes to Lourdes while Damian co-piloted the bikes, bags and "Pants Off" Phil by road.

I am also not talking about what is simply the worlds best double shot espresso at a non descript coffee place in Lourdes. The coffee shop in question does coffee, tea (which one of us had) and small bite size chocolate bars. It does absolutely nothing else. No food, no anything else, just coffee and our caffeine experts agreed with the claim that this is the worlds number one venue for coffee.

In addition, I am not talking about the dinner and wine we enjoyed at a highly recommended restaurant. Three of us had pizza while the rest carbo loaded with pasta - tomorrow is a big day with two major Cols to overcome including the famed Col de Tourmelet on our way to an overnight stay in Ageles-Gazost.

And finally, I am also not referring to the birthday of one of our collective favourite people in Julie L'Estange. Happy birthday Julie; hope you have a great day and the Thursday friendship ride proved a great start to your day.

What I am referring to when saying in the title that "it's not about the bike" is that today was highlighted by much, much more than cycling.

Lourdes is a place of deep religious significance to the Catholic faith. The reasons for this are referred to in the Route Map page of this site so I wont repeat them.

We arrived at Lourdes, checked in to our hotel, unpacked and went to explore.

In general, what we initially witnessed at best, disappointed us all. This appeared to be one tacky, cheap almost dirty little place with streets lined by what appeared to be down market souvenir vendors pedalling religious statues and holy water along with t shirts and other cheap memorabilia.

We ventured on down through the town until we heard the most magnificent Italian singing.

Opening up before us was an open space in front of a magnificent church and the beginning of a parade with flag bearers carrying what we now know to be flags of their Order of the Church and primarily from Italy. Our subsequent investigations revealed that it was Italian day in Lourdes.

This was quite a show.

The parade wound around the town and as the flag bearers ceased, a cross bearer appeared and then following the cross bearer was a parade of the sick. The first in the parade were those being wheeled in beds and were obviously the most seriously ill. Then followed hundreds and hundreds and hundreds of wheel chair bound people and their attendants. This went on and on and on and on . It was truly confronting and moving.

The purpose was that the sick and disabled would be blessed.

The public mass went on for hours as the sick and disabled assembled at the end of the parade in the huge square area in front of the church.

We are all quite certain that one of the bed ridden participants was Chopper Reid - who we know to be terminally ill. I kid you not - we believe it was Chopper Reid.

"Pants Off Phil" identified a group of 3 men who appeared to have an official role in proceedings and approached them asking if they spoke English. We were all keen to understand more about what was going on and Phil thought he had better find out for us. The 3 gentlemen he approached were not only involved, but were Irish and spoke perfect English.

Not only did they fill us is on what was happening, they asked if we wanted to visit the Grotto and see where the miracle of Bernadette Soubirous occurred and to do so without having to endure the crowds and line ups.

Yes was the answer and off we went on a 5 minute walk to the Grotto. From there, Peter, Damian, Ern and Phil (Pants Off) went onto the Lourdes Baths and had the experience of bathing in the Holy Water. A unique and wonderful thing to do indeed.

It was then a short line up to touch the flowing water of the Grotto. All but Craig and Colin (both non Catholics) participated in this ritual.

Lourdes is a contrast of the extremes. It is a contrast of the tacky commercialism of what would be Religious Tourism and the Deep Spiritual ceremony of the Catholic Church. It is extreme and we were extremely lucky to experience the latter on what was a formal day in the local calender.
We were also fortunate to link up with our new Irish friends and have the introduction to the Grotto and the Baths.

Our Irish friends also introduced us to the World's Best Coffee where they bought us not one but two rounds. Which at 6 pm may well mean some sleepless nights for some in the team.

Over coffee we learned some interesting things about our Irish hosts:

• two of the three are cousins and work in the family business. The business is gaming - poker machines and horse racing and the business operates in the "un regulated" sector of the gaming industry.
• the third runs Northern Ireland's best fish and chip shop.
• all are very successful business people and give a week of their time each year to help with a trip of people from Ireland to Lourdes. This always takes place in the last week of September and they have been doing this for the last 6 years.
• this year, they are part of a team of 45 volunteers from Ireland escorting a group of sick and elderly that numbers 980 - yes 980.
• the biggest group they have helped with was for the 150 year celebration in 2005 - that group from Ireland was over 2000 people.

It was a remarkable couple of hours topped off by a coffee with three very interesting people. I think also when we left them to follow their dinner recommendation, we all had a little feeling of guilt in that we all wondered just what it was they were after. They were after nothing at all other than to help and assist a group of Australian tourists who were showing genuine interest in what was happening on a special day in Lourdes. They even bought the coffee, despite our protests.

Tomorrow it is back to the business and cycling and a fascinating and challenging day.

There is also a new page on the website dedicated to the food and drinks we have been enjoying in France and Switzerland. Please check the photos.

The gallery has also been updated with an additional Ventoux picture or two and the bikes and equipment page has also been updated to include all bike, including Colin's new frame. (how does it look Robbo?)

Phil H's quote of the day - "Everyday of this tour we turn over a rock and find something new and amazing. What other rocks can we possibly turn over next".

Last and by no means least, there is another birthday on the 30th to celebrate - that of Tracy Sheehan. Happy birthday Tracy.