Basil Fawlty is alive and well, and living and operating the Relais des Templiers Hotel in the lovely town of Beaugency some 150 kilometres south west of Paris.
Having called and booked accommodation in advance, we arrived to find the place wide open but no one to be found. Calling, banging and yelling for an hour elicited little response and we were on the verge of leaving when a very tired looking gentlemen wondered into reception.
We said who we were and yes we had a booking and our rooms were ready. However, instead of dealing with our booking and getting us keys etc, he went outside to have a cigarette. He explained that his lateness was due to him having a nap and over sleeping. We have reason to suspect he may have had a beverage or two over lunch.
Today marked our final ride day and we wanted a quick beer. Our host was unable to help (he could do beers but not quickly) so we found a bar around the corner and Ern ordered the worst tasting beer ever brewed. It was from Belgium and was disgusting. Peter and Colin then took over the beer order and managed Heineken.
The bar was also a little interesting and comment was made that it was perhaps the last watering hole in the region for those travelling to Lourdes!
The preceding paragraphs have dealt with the immediate end to the ride today but there is much more.
Our day started with an amazing breakfast hosted by the delightful Evelyn at the Maison Carre in Montrichard.
As mentioned last night, the 2006 tour group had been well remembered and we were privileged to be allowed to stay in the wonderful accommodation and to enjoy the sensational breakfast of Orange Bread, Pain, Yogurt, Croissants, Fruit nut loaf, coffee, tea, juice, 12 varieties of home made jams and spreads and the local speciality of Cherry Pie. We took our time over breakfast and engaged in conversation with a Canadian couple who we met again later in the day and who rushed to have a photo taken with us (well at the least the wife did).
Craig and Phil later ensured our tour group would also be remembered for an indiscretion when they turned up an Indian music CD in the van and proceeded to sing and dance while other guests were sleeping. Who is still sleeping at 9.30 am on a Thursday morning - I guess Evelyn's guests are.
In fairness to those of 06, Evelyn did record a video clip specifically to you all. It will be in our tour DVD (perhaps)
We departed Montrichard as a most satisfied and well fed group with the destination of Chateau Royal in mind. Good roads, a slight downhill gradient and a neutral wind (a true cyclist will never admit a tail wind - neutral being as good as it gets) we travelled the 35 or so kilometres in less than an hour. As Peter said, give us a largely downhill gradient, great road surfaces and a neutral wind, and you are playing to our specialist strengths.
Chateau Royal has a fascinating contrast to what we witnessed yesterday and we toured the grounds and structures at our leisure. The photos will follow - Craig is still working on them.
From Chateau Royal we encountered a return of the head wind as we set course for Chateau Chambard. We again made good time but it was much harder work. Chateau Chambard is an incredible structure and on first sight looks like it comes from a scene from the Jetsons TV show. This is one bizarre and magnificent castle and it is amazing to think that it was built by King Louis (one of them) however he only ever stayed there twice. Again, photos will follow.
We had the mandatory coffee (and tea) and headed for our overnight destination of Beaugency. Damian felt that rolling into the town to complete our ride at the standard 30 or so KPH was not a suitable way to finish our epic journey. He thought a final 4 or 5 k's at 45 to 50 kph to be more appropriate. The 2010 tour sprint finish was therefore on. Damian managed to build an early lead over Colin. The author would like to be able to say that the end result was close however Damian ended up winning the 5 k dash by some 500 metres and that included waiting for Colin at one point to check the correct road to take. Colin is blaming the difference is his 50 tooth chain ring versus Damien’s 53 tooth ring but this excuse has little credibility.
We dined at a local restaurant tonight and it was just about the only one open.
Tomorrow we head for Paris and a few days of exploration before gradually heading home. We are all looking forward to seeing family and friends but perhaps wish they could all come to Europe so we can see them.
Showing posts with label On the Road. Show all posts
Showing posts with label On the Road. Show all posts
Friday, October 8, 2010
Thursday, October 7, 2010
Chateau Glory
The morning in Tours again greeted us with a wet sky and after cleaning and lubing bikes we farewelled Mick and Craig.
Peter, Colin, Ern and Damian took to the road wearing the wet weather gear and wishing for clear skies. And while the skies never really cleared, we were not actually rained upon.
Our exit from Tours was quite easy and we had a lovely ride largely along the river into the pretty town of Ambiose where we re-connected with Phil S and had a quality coffee (tea) and pastries in a delightful little street.
On leaving Ambiose, we continued another 20 or kilometres to Chateau Chenonceaux, a well known castle dating back to the 15th century. We took the tour of the Chateau which lasted an hour or more and it was enthralling, fascinating and educational. We were blown away by the history and the explanation of the back ground of all the different rooms.
From there we rode the 12 or so k's Montrichard where we are staying at the same Chambers as the 2006 tour - and Evelyn recalls the in-discretion's of the 2006 tour so we consider ourselves lucky to be allowed back - lets call it a chance for redemption.
It was a day of only a little over 50 k's but again, it was a wonderful day of discovery.
As previously reported, Craig lost his passport and was bailing to Paris today to go to the Embassy. We heard from him this afternoon and he has caught the train back to re-join our tour. He has spent much time in the train today.
Tomorrow is 'fluid' at the moment. We are thinking of riding to within 20 or so kilometres of Paris and then completing the tour on Friday morning. Alternatively we will stay longer in this area and complete the trip in to Paris by a combination of bike, train and van.
The Tour just keeps on giving.
We only have a 20 minutes on-line window today so photos will follow tomorrow - hopefully.
Peter, Colin, Ern and Damian took to the road wearing the wet weather gear and wishing for clear skies. And while the skies never really cleared, we were not actually rained upon.
Our exit from Tours was quite easy and we had a lovely ride largely along the river into the pretty town of Ambiose where we re-connected with Phil S and had a quality coffee (tea) and pastries in a delightful little street.
On leaving Ambiose, we continued another 20 or kilometres to Chateau Chenonceaux, a well known castle dating back to the 15th century. We took the tour of the Chateau which lasted an hour or more and it was enthralling, fascinating and educational. We were blown away by the history and the explanation of the back ground of all the different rooms.
From there we rode the 12 or so k's Montrichard where we are staying at the same Chambers as the 2006 tour - and Evelyn recalls the in-discretion's of the 2006 tour so we consider ourselves lucky to be allowed back - lets call it a chance for redemption.
It was a day of only a little over 50 k's but again, it was a wonderful day of discovery.
As previously reported, Craig lost his passport and was bailing to Paris today to go to the Embassy. We heard from him this afternoon and he has caught the train back to re-join our tour. He has spent much time in the train today.
Tomorrow is 'fluid' at the moment. We are thinking of riding to within 20 or so kilometres of Paris and then completing the tour on Friday morning. Alternatively we will stay longer in this area and complete the trip in to Paris by a combination of bike, train and van.
The Tour just keeps on giving.
We only have a 20 minutes on-line window today so photos will follow tomorrow - hopefully.
Tuesday, October 5, 2010
Wind, Rain, Cold and Caves
Our departure from Frigeac comprised of a 100 meter ride to a wonderful bakery to purchase breakfast to consume in the bar across the road where coffee (and tea) was enjoyed by all. All the time, storm clouds were gathering and when lightning and thunder struck to accompanying torrential rain, we simply ordered more coffee (and tea) and waited for conditions to improve.
And improve they did to allow us to roll out of Frigeac in a light shower and some 18 degrees, all wearing our very best wet weather jackets.
We exited the city and linked up with some very quiet meandering (and sometimes undulating) roads and largely tracked the river on our way to our lunch destination of Cirq la Popie as the weather was closing in.
We had a look around the village and had coffee (and tea) at a delightful little place. We again attracted much attention including from an American group who were desperate to know the results from the Men's World Road Racing Championships.
Unfortunately, the member of our group who they first approached not only did not know who won, but did not even know the Championships had just been conducted in Australia - guess who it was. They finally asked Peter who was able to provide all the details.
From there, we commandeered a vacant area of a restaurant and enjoyed a lunch provided by Phil S catering services. It was a sight to behold.
Craig also ran into a guy he regularly plays golf with in Brisbane - small world indeed.
From there, we made our way to Grotte du Pech-Merle where we enjoyed an educational tour of the ancient caves dating back 30,000 years. Incredible, even if the tour was narrated in French.
Our target then was our overnight destination of Cahors. As the rain and wind increased and the chill factor climbed, Peter was keen to ensure we had accommodation near the train station.
Taking Colin for assistance, they took to the van and headed for Cahors to ensure the rooms were booked and bags were in rooms when the drenched and cold cyclist arrived. Colin was quick to volunteer for the job. He thinks his body fat percentage has dropped so low that any rain and wind chills him to the bone and he was not looking forward to the final 20 k's. But his discomfort was nothing compared to Craig, Mick, Ern and Damian who fought
extraordinarily wet, windy and cold conditions over the final 25 kilometres into Cahors. A brave and courageous effort indeed and one that could hardly be described as pleasant.
Yet again, the roads and sights of France have thrown us another completely different experience today.
On arrival in Cahors, a laundromat was found and our lunch left overs were consumed along with a dozen or so beers. Some locals using the laundromat were a little amused at the party taking place by these strange Aussies. The beer we were enjoying was the local brew called Ratz and Mick added musical accompaniment of Frank Zappa'a Hot Ratz album to complete the laundering occasion - surreal.
From there we moved to the local pub (and just about the only place open on a Monday evening) for the most standard meal we have had so far - except for Ern who decided tonight was the night to try Cheval (horse). Others had burgers while one of us had salmon. Fine wine was also enjoyed in what was yet another Rose and anchovy free evening (Peter is coming good - unlike in 2006 when he apparently converted many to the "joys" of Rose).
A question was asked following last nights post about the number of people Craig has said hello too. Craig has been at his sociable and communicative best and as also mentioned previously, his means of supplementing verbal communication with non verbal communication techniques is a sight to see and cannot be described here. But it basically works. Unfortunately, perhaps the number of responses he receives is far less than the approaches he makes.
We have a train transfer tomorrow and a hope for less challenging weather.
There is an update to the Food 0n Tour and Gallery pages.
Thanks again for reading and your feedback and comments are much valued.
We will be in Paris on Friday however have much to experience in the meantime.
And improve they did to allow us to roll out of Frigeac in a light shower and some 18 degrees, all wearing our very best wet weather jackets.
We exited the city and linked up with some very quiet meandering (and sometimes undulating) roads and largely tracked the river on our way to our lunch destination of Cirq la Popie as the weather was closing in.
We had a look around the village and had coffee (and tea) at a delightful little place. We again attracted much attention including from an American group who were desperate to know the results from the Men's World Road Racing Championships.
Unfortunately, the member of our group who they first approached not only did not know who won, but did not even know the Championships had just been conducted in Australia - guess who it was. They finally asked Peter who was able to provide all the details.
From there, we commandeered a vacant area of a restaurant and enjoyed a lunch provided by Phil S catering services. It was a sight to behold.
Craig also ran into a guy he regularly plays golf with in Brisbane - small world indeed.
From there, we made our way to Grotte du Pech-Merle where we enjoyed an educational tour of the ancient caves dating back 30,000 years. Incredible, even if the tour was narrated in French.
Our target then was our overnight destination of Cahors. As the rain and wind increased and the chill factor climbed, Peter was keen to ensure we had accommodation near the train station.
Taking Colin for assistance, they took to the van and headed for Cahors to ensure the rooms were booked and bags were in rooms when the drenched and cold cyclist arrived. Colin was quick to volunteer for the job. He thinks his body fat percentage has dropped so low that any rain and wind chills him to the bone and he was not looking forward to the final 20 k's. But his discomfort was nothing compared to Craig, Mick, Ern and Damian who fought
extraordinarily wet, windy and cold conditions over the final 25 kilometres into Cahors. A brave and courageous effort indeed and one that could hardly be described as pleasant.
Yet again, the roads and sights of France have thrown us another completely different experience today.
On arrival in Cahors, a laundromat was found and our lunch left overs were consumed along with a dozen or so beers. Some locals using the laundromat were a little amused at the party taking place by these strange Aussies. The beer we were enjoying was the local brew called Ratz and Mick added musical accompaniment of Frank Zappa'a Hot Ratz album to complete the laundering occasion - surreal.
From there we moved to the local pub (and just about the only place open on a Monday evening) for the most standard meal we have had so far - except for Ern who decided tonight was the night to try Cheval (horse). Others had burgers while one of us had salmon. Fine wine was also enjoyed in what was yet another Rose and anchovy free evening (Peter is coming good - unlike in 2006 when he apparently converted many to the "joys" of Rose).
A question was asked following last nights post about the number of people Craig has said hello too. Craig has been at his sociable and communicative best and as also mentioned previously, his means of supplementing verbal communication with non verbal communication techniques is a sight to see and cannot be described here. But it basically works. Unfortunately, perhaps the number of responses he receives is far less than the approaches he makes.
We have a train transfer tomorrow and a hope for less challenging weather.
There is an update to the Food 0n Tour and Gallery pages.
Thanks again for reading and your feedback and comments are much valued.
We will be in Paris on Friday however have much to experience in the meantime.
Monday, October 4, 2010
Medieval Villages and hell by wind - so tough today
If it is not hurting, it is riding, not cycling.
We were cycling today.
We left Beynac at 9 am with a revised target of Figeac some 112 kilometres away.
We rolled through Domme in 22 degrees and light winds and proceeded to make our way through gently undulating roads through amazing Medieval villages before hooking up with the same bike path used by the 2006 tour to continue a roll along a beautiful river for some 10 kilometres before again joining up with some quiet roads for the run into Soulillac for a quick coffee break.
From there we picked up the roads leading to Rocamadour and completing a 10 k climb into a stiffening head wind into the "new" or hospitality section of Rocamadour where we stopped for lunch and were joined by Phil and Julie Hatcher to catch up on their dealings with the French authorities in tracking down Phil's lost property. The positive side of the 'lost property' situation is to give Julie ample opportunity to test her French speaking skills - which is going very well.
From there we descended through the amazing 'Old Cite' of Rocamadour. (although Colin bailed on the decent due to the extraordinarily strong winds and linked with the group at the bottom of the hill.
It was then uphill for a few more kilometres and we were lost.
A group of 5 in a late model BMW 7 series pulled to a stop in the middle of a very quiet road asking if we were training for the Tour de France. (Craig said we were).
After some communication challenges, they directed us down a road that does not exist on any of our 9 maps or two GPS systems to Gramat (which we were aiming for).
This non existent road was fabulous - boarded by ancient rock walls and travelling through grazing lands. Again, it was a very different experience and one we were fortunate to have.
At Gramat, we re-checked maps and set sail for Figeac, some 34 k's away on great roads.
What was not great is that in every 4 kilometres we ascended and descended terrain that was greater than Mt Coot-tha and we did so into a head wind that meant we had to pedal hard on the down hill just to keep moving forward. The up hills were hell. We did this for 30 kilometres before a long decent into our overnight destination.
We were hurting today - we were cycling. This was seriously hard however our group worked well together and shared the load to see us arriving a little after 5.30 pm.
Dinner was something else again. Steak, chicken, turkey, omelet, salad, desert plus rose and red, beers and coffee for 7 - all for 88 Euros.
The weather forecast tomorrow is for rain. Seriously, it can be as wet as it likes - as long as it is not with wind. We have done wind - we don't need any more.
The gallery has been updated. You will notice there are no post lunch photos which is a testimony to it being too hard to shoot on the bike.
Also scroll down to the d'Aubisque section to see the 2 new photos of the hang glider.
Finally, the first shot you will see is of Ern at Brisbane airport prior to his departure - thanks to Andrea.
We were cycling today.
We left Beynac at 9 am with a revised target of Figeac some 112 kilometres away.
We rolled through Domme in 22 degrees and light winds and proceeded to make our way through gently undulating roads through amazing Medieval villages before hooking up with the same bike path used by the 2006 tour to continue a roll along a beautiful river for some 10 kilometres before again joining up with some quiet roads for the run into Soulillac for a quick coffee break.
From there we picked up the roads leading to Rocamadour and completing a 10 k climb into a stiffening head wind into the "new" or hospitality section of Rocamadour where we stopped for lunch and were joined by Phil and Julie Hatcher to catch up on their dealings with the French authorities in tracking down Phil's lost property. The positive side of the 'lost property' situation is to give Julie ample opportunity to test her French speaking skills - which is going very well.
From there we descended through the amazing 'Old Cite' of Rocamadour. (although Colin bailed on the decent due to the extraordinarily strong winds and linked with the group at the bottom of the hill.
It was then uphill for a few more kilometres and we were lost.
A group of 5 in a late model BMW 7 series pulled to a stop in the middle of a very quiet road asking if we were training for the Tour de France. (Craig said we were).
After some communication challenges, they directed us down a road that does not exist on any of our 9 maps or two GPS systems to Gramat (which we were aiming for).
This non existent road was fabulous - boarded by ancient rock walls and travelling through grazing lands. Again, it was a very different experience and one we were fortunate to have.
At Gramat, we re-checked maps and set sail for Figeac, some 34 k's away on great roads.
What was not great is that in every 4 kilometres we ascended and descended terrain that was greater than Mt Coot-tha and we did so into a head wind that meant we had to pedal hard on the down hill just to keep moving forward. The up hills were hell. We did this for 30 kilometres before a long decent into our overnight destination.
We were hurting today - we were cycling. This was seriously hard however our group worked well together and shared the load to see us arriving a little after 5.30 pm.
Dinner was something else again. Steak, chicken, turkey, omelet, salad, desert plus rose and red, beers and coffee for 7 - all for 88 Euros.
The weather forecast tomorrow is for rain. Seriously, it can be as wet as it likes - as long as it is not with wind. We have done wind - we don't need any more.
The gallery has been updated. You will notice there are no post lunch photos which is a testimony to it being too hard to shoot on the bike.
Also scroll down to the d'Aubisque section to see the 2 new photos of the hang glider.
Finally, the first shot you will see is of Ern at Brisbane airport prior to his departure - thanks to Andrea.
Sunday, October 3, 2010
Pau and other wonders
1 October 2010 marks our last day challenging ourselves in the high mountains of France. And what a day to finish on!
Throughout our updates over the previous 12 days, words including "incredible, amazing, spectacular, wonderful, sensational and breathtaking" have been used repeatedly to attempt to describe the experiences we are having and the scenes we are seeing.
All these words again apply to our day.
After an amazing dinner the night before, we were in exceptionally good spirits as we cleaned and lubed the bikes.
Our host Pierre bid us farewell and we have all vowed to return to his wonderful hotel in the beautiful little town of Luz St Saveur.
We had an initial downhill run along good roads in clear and sunny weather.
We stopped at Argeles-Gazost to prepare for the 30 kilometre haul up 2 Cols to the summit of Col d'Aubisque.
Our first obstacle was a gradual ascending road through to the start of the climb proper of the Col du Soulor.
This was a good warm up for what lay ahead and we were all feeling the effort of the previous day in our legs.
Col du Soulor was a climb of some 8 kilometres up to 1474 metres. It was tough with repeated gradients of 8% and within that, some short very sharp pinches just to keep the lactic levels high.
It was a beautiful climb in perfect conditions with virtually no traffic.
On reaching the summit, it was a quick refill of water bottles, a replenishment of gels and limited warmer clothing was
required.
This first downhill section was tackled with mixed emotions as we all had the coming accent of Col d"Aubisque in the back
of our minds.
The accent of d'Aubisque was yet again a unique experience with many of us suggesting this to be the most spectacular climb of all those we have tackled. The scenery was simply out of this world. All the words previously used apply.
What makes our experiences in France all the more fulfilling is that every day is different and freshly exciting. Be it rolling through the French country side or climbing a Col, it is simply beautiful but at the same time different. And d'Aubisque typified yet another difference for us.
The photos are coming and hopefully they do it justice. There were birds of prey 'playing' in the thermals and hang gliders taking advantage of the conditions.
Peter mentioned that the 2006 tour tackled our day in the opposite direction (and harder direction) in terrible weather which would have tested the nerves of the cyclists. We were granted the exact opposite conditions.
Damian finished first to wrap up the King of the Mountains prize, followed by Peter. Colin was a long way back followed by Phil H, Ern and Craig and then Mick. Ern stayed with Craig to provide assistance and encouragement - was a gutsy effort by Craig in what was his first time riding back to back high mountains.
Phil H was the cyclist of the day and is riding into top climbing form just as the Cols come to an end.
The Col d'Aubisque rises to 1709 spectacular metres. There are several tunnels to pass through including one that is pitch black.
At the summit, you literally feel as if you are on top of the world.
Many photos were taken as we celebrated our final Col. We stayed for lunch and chatted to a couple from England, a cyclist from USA and a tri-athlete from Rotterdam who we had met earlier at our hotel. All had ridden the Col's we had with the American doing so on a steel bike with pannier bags and down tube shifters - and he was damn near as old as Ern.
Peter has commented just how many more cyclists there are in France compared to the 2006 tour and suggests it reflects a sport that is seriously growing throughout the world.
Our jerseys are the catalyst for the start of many conversations and we are continually approached by people of all nationalities interested in what we are doing. Craig has mastered the art of communicating in mime when his French and anothers English runs out. It is indeed a sight to see - but it works.
After lunch on 'Top of the World" we had a fabulously long sweeping decent virtually all the way through to our overnight destination of Pau.
About 10 k from the centre of Pau, we were looking for a directional sign when a lone local cyclist stopped to see if he could help. He then proceeded to lead us all the way in to Pau including for part of the trip, along a largely wonderful
bike path.
There was one section that was very loose stones such as those you find on rail way tracks. This was hairy and made even more so when we had to dis-mount, carry our bikes up an embankment, cross a single rail track and then do the reverse on
the other side to pick up a road. Not an easy thing to do in cleats.
It was 105 hard tough and wonderful kilometres in the most amazing weather you could hope for to finish in the delightful City of Pau.
Colin did a beer run and it took him ages. He was still wearing his jersey and was stopped in the street on 4 occasions within 500 or so metres by people wanting to talk about Australia. There was an Italian couple, an English lady, a local Gentleman and a local lady who spoke perfect English. He was surprised when she said she was from Pau and it turned out she used to be an English teacher and takes every chance to keep her hand in by talking English. Her daughter is working in Sydney (Manly) for a year and has been to Cairns and she wanted to know what these places were like. She also thought our tour slogan "Le Velo, Le Vin La Vie" to be just wonderful The Italian couple have friends living in Melbourne and wanted to know if Colin knew them. (He didn't)
For dinner, Ern selected a wonderful restaurant to continue the Food, Rouge and Rose tour and given Phil is leaving us, he shouted some excellent Rouge and top shelf Rose to accompany some superb cuisine which we enjoyed while the jazz duo
performed for our pleasure.
The cleansing ale on the way home was perhaps not needed but was never the less enjoyed. It could be said we had had enough.
Today has been an early start. Damian played co -pilot with Phil S and the van while the rest of us ventured to the station to catch the train to Salat. We had a change of train and a wait of a couple of hours in Bordeaux.
Sadly, we lose Phil today in Bordeaux where he is meeting Julie to continue his holiday in France. Even more sadly, we left him in the Station Office chasing some property lost on the train.
Our final destination for the evening was changed to the most delightful little town of Beynac on Dordogne River. We are staying in a very old hotel situated immediately below a magnificent castle.
After checking into the hotel, Ern, Peter and Colin rode the 9 kilometres to Domm and enjoyed the incredible outlook from the town, Ern and Peter enjoyed a beer while Colin had tea. They were served by a lady in a private hotel who only agreed to serve them because they had ridden up the hill.
The rest of the tour group walked up and explored the old castle and also enjoyed some amazing views and history.
Dinner was superb with several having the Salad with Local Duck Specialities - and the nature of the specialities is best left for you to conclude.Foie Gras was also highly featured along with Duck dishes of all kinds. (and one fish). Photos to be added to the Food on Tour Page. Be sure to also check the cheese board presented for Peter and Mick to share (They didn't quite get through it all). Amazingly, it was also a Rose free evening and maybe, just maybe, Peter is converted.
Tomorrow we are back on the bike with 130 kilometres of what Greg describes as "Daydreaming through the Dordogne" as we make our way to Rocamadour. It is the same as a ride day of the 2006 tour described as follows.
"A very full day but the beauty will cancel out any tiredness or pain" (A. Condon, 9/2006)
Sadly, the tour that keeps getting better and better has less than a week to go.
PS - Gallery and food on tour photos now updated too
Throughout our updates over the previous 12 days, words including "incredible, amazing, spectacular, wonderful, sensational and breathtaking" have been used repeatedly to attempt to describe the experiences we are having and the scenes we are seeing.
All these words again apply to our day.
After an amazing dinner the night before, we were in exceptionally good spirits as we cleaned and lubed the bikes.
Our host Pierre bid us farewell and we have all vowed to return to his wonderful hotel in the beautiful little town of Luz St Saveur.
We had an initial downhill run along good roads in clear and sunny weather.
We stopped at Argeles-Gazost to prepare for the 30 kilometre haul up 2 Cols to the summit of Col d'Aubisque.
Our first obstacle was a gradual ascending road through to the start of the climb proper of the Col du Soulor.
This was a good warm up for what lay ahead and we were all feeling the effort of the previous day in our legs.
Col du Soulor was a climb of some 8 kilometres up to 1474 metres. It was tough with repeated gradients of 8% and within that, some short very sharp pinches just to keep the lactic levels high.
It was a beautiful climb in perfect conditions with virtually no traffic.
On reaching the summit, it was a quick refill of water bottles, a replenishment of gels and limited warmer clothing was
required.
This first downhill section was tackled with mixed emotions as we all had the coming accent of Col d"Aubisque in the back
of our minds.
The accent of d'Aubisque was yet again a unique experience with many of us suggesting this to be the most spectacular climb of all those we have tackled. The scenery was simply out of this world. All the words previously used apply.
What makes our experiences in France all the more fulfilling is that every day is different and freshly exciting. Be it rolling through the French country side or climbing a Col, it is simply beautiful but at the same time different. And d'Aubisque typified yet another difference for us.
The photos are coming and hopefully they do it justice. There were birds of prey 'playing' in the thermals and hang gliders taking advantage of the conditions.
Peter mentioned that the 2006 tour tackled our day in the opposite direction (and harder direction) in terrible weather which would have tested the nerves of the cyclists. We were granted the exact opposite conditions.
Damian finished first to wrap up the King of the Mountains prize, followed by Peter. Colin was a long way back followed by Phil H, Ern and Craig and then Mick. Ern stayed with Craig to provide assistance and encouragement - was a gutsy effort by Craig in what was his first time riding back to back high mountains.
Phil H was the cyclist of the day and is riding into top climbing form just as the Cols come to an end.
The Col d'Aubisque rises to 1709 spectacular metres. There are several tunnels to pass through including one that is pitch black.
At the summit, you literally feel as if you are on top of the world.
Many photos were taken as we celebrated our final Col. We stayed for lunch and chatted to a couple from England, a cyclist from USA and a tri-athlete from Rotterdam who we had met earlier at our hotel. All had ridden the Col's we had with the American doing so on a steel bike with pannier bags and down tube shifters - and he was damn near as old as Ern.
Peter has commented just how many more cyclists there are in France compared to the 2006 tour and suggests it reflects a sport that is seriously growing throughout the world.
Our jerseys are the catalyst for the start of many conversations and we are continually approached by people of all nationalities interested in what we are doing. Craig has mastered the art of communicating in mime when his French and anothers English runs out. It is indeed a sight to see - but it works.
After lunch on 'Top of the World" we had a fabulously long sweeping decent virtually all the way through to our overnight destination of Pau.
About 10 k from the centre of Pau, we were looking for a directional sign when a lone local cyclist stopped to see if he could help. He then proceeded to lead us all the way in to Pau including for part of the trip, along a largely wonderful
bike path.
There was one section that was very loose stones such as those you find on rail way tracks. This was hairy and made even more so when we had to dis-mount, carry our bikes up an embankment, cross a single rail track and then do the reverse on
the other side to pick up a road. Not an easy thing to do in cleats.
It was 105 hard tough and wonderful kilometres in the most amazing weather you could hope for to finish in the delightful City of Pau.
Colin did a beer run and it took him ages. He was still wearing his jersey and was stopped in the street on 4 occasions within 500 or so metres by people wanting to talk about Australia. There was an Italian couple, an English lady, a local Gentleman and a local lady who spoke perfect English. He was surprised when she said she was from Pau and it turned out she used to be an English teacher and takes every chance to keep her hand in by talking English. Her daughter is working in Sydney (Manly) for a year and has been to Cairns and she wanted to know what these places were like. She also thought our tour slogan "Le Velo, Le Vin La Vie" to be just wonderful The Italian couple have friends living in Melbourne and wanted to know if Colin knew them. (He didn't)
For dinner, Ern selected a wonderful restaurant to continue the Food, Rouge and Rose tour and given Phil is leaving us, he shouted some excellent Rouge and top shelf Rose to accompany some superb cuisine which we enjoyed while the jazz duo
performed for our pleasure.
The cleansing ale on the way home was perhaps not needed but was never the less enjoyed. It could be said we had had enough.
Today has been an early start. Damian played co -pilot with Phil S and the van while the rest of us ventured to the station to catch the train to Salat. We had a change of train and a wait of a couple of hours in Bordeaux.
Sadly, we lose Phil today in Bordeaux where he is meeting Julie to continue his holiday in France. Even more sadly, we left him in the Station Office chasing some property lost on the train.
Our final destination for the evening was changed to the most delightful little town of Beynac on Dordogne River. We are staying in a very old hotel situated immediately below a magnificent castle.
After checking into the hotel, Ern, Peter and Colin rode the 9 kilometres to Domm and enjoyed the incredible outlook from the town, Ern and Peter enjoyed a beer while Colin had tea. They were served by a lady in a private hotel who only agreed to serve them because they had ridden up the hill.
The rest of the tour group walked up and explored the old castle and also enjoyed some amazing views and history.
Dinner was superb with several having the Salad with Local Duck Specialities - and the nature of the specialities is best left for you to conclude.Foie Gras was also highly featured along with Duck dishes of all kinds. (and one fish). Photos to be added to the Food on Tour Page. Be sure to also check the cheese board presented for Peter and Mick to share (They didn't quite get through it all). Amazingly, it was also a Rose free evening and maybe, just maybe, Peter is converted.
Tomorrow we are back on the bike with 130 kilometres of what Greg describes as "Daydreaming through the Dordogne" as we make our way to Rocamadour. It is the same as a ride day of the 2006 tour described as follows.
"A very full day but the beauty will cancel out any tiredness or pain" (A. Condon, 9/2006)
Sadly, the tour that keeps getting better and better has less than a week to go.
PS - Gallery and food on tour photos now updated too
Saturday, October 2, 2010
Farewell to the Alps
Good morning all in Australia.
We have had yet another amazing day on the road including the accent of the famous Col d'Abisque.
Our day on the road was perhaps one of our most demanding but also one of our most spectacular.
There will be a far more comprehensive account of our day tomorrow, except to say that the departure of Phil H from our tour has been acknowledged over dinner with the consumption of much Rose and Rouge - as it most correctly should be.
Your correspondent also apologises for the greater than normal spelling and grammatical errors from yesterdays update. Yesterday was also finalised by a significant and long celebration involving much of the local foods and wine.
We will catch up in the next 24 hours to re-count what has been perhaps the most spectacular day of our tour.
Good night from Pau in France
We have had yet another amazing day on the road including the accent of the famous Col d'Abisque.
Our day on the road was perhaps one of our most demanding but also one of our most spectacular.
There will be a far more comprehensive account of our day tomorrow, except to say that the departure of Phil H from our tour has been acknowledged over dinner with the consumption of much Rose and Rouge - as it most correctly should be.
Your correspondent also apologises for the greater than normal spelling and grammatical errors from yesterdays update. Yesterday was also finalised by a significant and long celebration involving much of the local foods and wine.
We will catch up in the next 24 hours to re-count what has been perhaps the most spectacular day of our tour.
Good night from Pau in France
Friday, October 1, 2010
Iconic Tourmalet and getting it right
We have had a lesson in correct pronunciation this evening.
Our overnight stay tonight is at the Hotel de Londres in the beautiful Pyrenees town of Luz St Saveur.
This is the same hotel visited by the pioneering 2006 tour and the popular and generous host, Pierre, has made this year's experience just as special as it was in 2006.
Dinner of vegetable soup, trout (caught this afternoon), pork and pastas was something special. There was also a fabulous birthday cake complete with candles and other illumination decoration fro one of our tour party. Add some local Rouge and Rose and a memorable evening was had to top off an equally memorable day. We would all like to stay longer.
We shared some of our video with Pierre including our bike cam footage of descending Ventoux and Tourmalet.
In discussion with Pierre, we also discovered that his pronunciation of Tourmalet was quite different to ours in that he used the "t" in the word. We asked him about this and he explained the correct way to say the name of the Col was with a hard "t" and that this was the right and proper way in the South of France. A little bit like the use of the "t" in the Moet from Moet and Chandon. From now on, we are committed to getting it right.
Our day began in Lourdes in wet and overcast conditions as we donned rain jackets and headed for Bagmeres de Bigorre.
The wet conditions resulted in us deciding not to first ascend the Col de Aspin as we did not want to risk missing the Col du Tormalet.
We stopped for morning tea at Campon before proceeding on to St Marie de Campon where we stripped our bikes and ourselves to the bear essentials for the assault on Tourmalet.
It was an interesting and varied choice of clothing for the start of the climb. Peter, Colin and Damian opted for jersey, bear arms and legs and caps, Ern and Craig went with full arm and leg warmers and gillets with Ern also wearing water proof booties while Craig discarded his helmet after a few k's. Phil and Mick opted for a mix of all the others. The diversity in attire clearly reflected the un-certainty of the weather conditions. It could be snow, and it could be hot and fine.
As it was, no one made the correct or the wrong choice.
Different sections of the 16 k accent were bathed in warm sun and covered in thick and cold cloud. See new photos in the gallery.
Damian broke away early leaving Peter and Ern to fight it out for second place. Peter defied his own advice of "always ride big mountains within yourself" when he found Ern on his wheel with a few k's to go and promptly ignored his heart rate monitor and went into the red zone to take second place - be it narrowly.
Colin was fourth followed by a rejuvenated and inspired Phil H ahead of Craig and Mick.
Damian and Peter both agree this was the toughest of our climbs to date. Peter even says this way up the Col is harder than the direction taken by the 2006 tourists. From the downhill run, the rest of us found this surprising and are glad we ascended the way we did.
Hopefully the photos in the gallery illustrate the beauty and wonder of this Col. It seems we say this every day, but the outlook was breath taking.
There were two stand out cycling performances for the day.
Phil has been suffering from flu and a poorly adjusted rear derailleur. Both were fixed for this climb and he came home in approximately 90 minutes.
Ern had a sensational climb too and revealed later that Tourmalet has been an objective of his since taking up cycling 2 or so years ago - his first bike being a LeMond Tourmalet.
Colin also had long harboured ambitions to visit Tourmalet having been motivated by Trent D's 2005 account of his visit to the Col.
Mick was also sensational today (as always) and Craig has learned to enjoy long climbs and the experience and beauty they offer. He did it very comfortably indeed.
On arrival, we toured the town including the 13th century fortressed church (although the fortress was only built in the 15th century.
Another great day and another great evening.
I must again mention the great work by Craig and "Pants off Phil" for their sensational photography. Craig is also now running a bike mounted camera as is Mick and the downhill footage is particularly striking.
Photos of Tourmalet are now in the gallery and the new page of Food on Tour is also now up to date including today's crepes at the Col.
Ern is adding great anologue input to route planning and has also become the jersey junkie on tour.
Thanks also to everyone for the blog comments. e-mails and sms messages. They are all much appreciated by us all.
Col d'Aubisque then Pau tomorrow - fingers crossed for some fine weather.
Our overnight stay tonight is at the Hotel de Londres in the beautiful Pyrenees town of Luz St Saveur.
This is the same hotel visited by the pioneering 2006 tour and the popular and generous host, Pierre, has made this year's experience just as special as it was in 2006.
Dinner of vegetable soup, trout (caught this afternoon), pork and pastas was something special. There was also a fabulous birthday cake complete with candles and other illumination decoration fro one of our tour party. Add some local Rouge and Rose and a memorable evening was had to top off an equally memorable day. We would all like to stay longer.
We shared some of our video with Pierre including our bike cam footage of descending Ventoux and Tourmalet.
In discussion with Pierre, we also discovered that his pronunciation of Tourmalet was quite different to ours in that he used the "t" in the word. We asked him about this and he explained the correct way to say the name of the Col was with a hard "t" and that this was the right and proper way in the South of France. A little bit like the use of the "t" in the Moet from Moet and Chandon. From now on, we are committed to getting it right.
Our day began in Lourdes in wet and overcast conditions as we donned rain jackets and headed for Bagmeres de Bigorre.
The wet conditions resulted in us deciding not to first ascend the Col de Aspin as we did not want to risk missing the Col du Tormalet.
We stopped for morning tea at Campon before proceeding on to St Marie de Campon where we stripped our bikes and ourselves to the bear essentials for the assault on Tourmalet.
It was an interesting and varied choice of clothing for the start of the climb. Peter, Colin and Damian opted for jersey, bear arms and legs and caps, Ern and Craig went with full arm and leg warmers and gillets with Ern also wearing water proof booties while Craig discarded his helmet after a few k's. Phil and Mick opted for a mix of all the others. The diversity in attire clearly reflected the un-certainty of the weather conditions. It could be snow, and it could be hot and fine.
As it was, no one made the correct or the wrong choice.
Different sections of the 16 k accent were bathed in warm sun and covered in thick and cold cloud. See new photos in the gallery.
Damian broke away early leaving Peter and Ern to fight it out for second place. Peter defied his own advice of "always ride big mountains within yourself" when he found Ern on his wheel with a few k's to go and promptly ignored his heart rate monitor and went into the red zone to take second place - be it narrowly.
Colin was fourth followed by a rejuvenated and inspired Phil H ahead of Craig and Mick.
Damian and Peter both agree this was the toughest of our climbs to date. Peter even says this way up the Col is harder than the direction taken by the 2006 tourists. From the downhill run, the rest of us found this surprising and are glad we ascended the way we did.
Hopefully the photos in the gallery illustrate the beauty and wonder of this Col. It seems we say this every day, but the outlook was breath taking.
There were two stand out cycling performances for the day.
Phil has been suffering from flu and a poorly adjusted rear derailleur. Both were fixed for this climb and he came home in approximately 90 minutes.
Ern had a sensational climb too and revealed later that Tourmalet has been an objective of his since taking up cycling 2 or so years ago - his first bike being a LeMond Tourmalet.
Colin also had long harboured ambitions to visit Tourmalet having been motivated by Trent D's 2005 account of his visit to the Col.
Mick was also sensational today (as always) and Craig has learned to enjoy long climbs and the experience and beauty they offer. He did it very comfortably indeed.
On arrival, we toured the town including the 13th century fortressed church (although the fortress was only built in the 15th century.
Another great day and another great evening.
I must again mention the great work by Craig and "Pants off Phil" for their sensational photography. Craig is also now running a bike mounted camera as is Mick and the downhill footage is particularly striking.
Photos of Tourmalet are now in the gallery and the new page of Food on Tour is also now up to date including today's crepes at the Col.
Ern is adding great anologue input to route planning and has also become the jersey junkie on tour.
Thanks also to everyone for the blog comments. e-mails and sms messages. They are all much appreciated by us all.
Col d'Aubisque then Pau tomorrow - fingers crossed for some fine weather.
Tuesday, September 28, 2010
The Giant of Provence
The "Giant of Provence" is something else.
Col de la Madelaine was quite something but you could not really see it in its supreme magnitude because it was part of other mountain passes.
Mt Ventoux is the Giant of Provence and it is made even more daunting because you can see from far away just what lays before you,
But let not me be the one to describe the Ventoux.
I will instead quote notable British cycling writer on his first view of the Giant when he wrote:
"And suddenly, there, in what seems like another world, miles away, rises a preposterously large mountain into a torn blue sky. Incalculably vast and aloof, a naked summit, white as monumental alabaster, the bloodless white of death, topped by a radio mast, like a steeple. so remote that I imagine any roads going up there must belong to different scales of tick tock and map measurements , with time locks between them and the road I am riding. A real ogre with winter in its hair, a gale screaming out of its throat and an extremely uncomfortable way of staring at a body. I didn't want to believe this was Ventoux, I couldn't believe this wasn't Ventoux. It was Ventoux alright"
The above pretty much sums up Mt Ventoux, the Giant of Provence.
Unlike the mountains of the Alps, this bastard stands aloof. We could not really see the summit of Madelaine because it was a part of many other Cols. There is nothing about Ventoux to disguise its height and gradient. It stands alone in all its frightening awesomeness.
This is not only an iconic mountain of Le Tour, but an iconic mountain of the world of cycling.
It is said that until you conquer the fear of Ventoux, you cannot call yourself a real cyclist.
Our band of 7 cyclists are now 'real'.
Phil H said " this is the ultimate cycling challenge - nothing comes close
Mick W said on completion of the climb - " Ventoux is relentless but at the same time rewarding"
Damian's comments were " the achievement of the group as a whole is a testament to the group but I was not prepared for the incredible vista as we emerged from the forest with 6 k's to go
Peter has been here before however on the 2006 tour the accent was via the far easier route. He was pleased to have ascended by way of the much harder route out of Bedoin and said he "took much satisfaction from seeing the pleasure of the group passing the much harder roads from Bedoin".
After the extreme challenge of Madelaine a few days ago, it was inevitable that comparisons would be drawn between the two climbs.
Craig considered Ventoux to be easier while Phil thought it far, far tougher. Colin wants to do Madelaine again in fine weather before deciding whereas Damian believes they are both bastards.
Mt Ventoux is a famous climb for cyclists. We want to test ourselves on her slopes. Today, the winds had dropped to an horrific level of only 58 kph. Yesterday it was 100 kph. Since when has 58kph been easy? But Ventoux is different
We were fortunate that there was a fine weather opportunity to allow us reasonable access. In planning the 2010 route, Peter and Greg M were keen to ascend the mountain from the more exposed and difficult starting point of Bedoin and pleasingly, this proved to be possible.
Peter and Damian crossed the summit literally a spoke distance apart followed by Colin, Ern, Craig, Phil and Mick. There were two heroes today with Mick and Phil dragging their 100 kg bodies up and over what is one of the most demanding climbs in the world of cycling.
A Mirage fighter from the French air force performed a fly by the mountain to celebrate our achievement. Spectacular.
There are photos in the gallery however be sure to catch the video of the day when it it released as we had two bike mounted cameras and one car camera catching all the action.
Tomorrow we head for Nimes however we are fully aware that it will take another significant mountain challenge to match the ecstasy that we all feel today. We cannot wait until the Pyrenees.
In summary, Mt Ventoux was the greatest day any of us have had on the bike and we have celebrated tonight as only Australian's can . (Rose and all)
If you have not yet done Ventoux, start planning now - because you must - from Bedoin
Col de la Madelaine was quite something but you could not really see it in its supreme magnitude because it was part of other mountain passes.
Mt Ventoux is the Giant of Provence and it is made even more daunting because you can see from far away just what lays before you,
But let not me be the one to describe the Ventoux.
I will instead quote notable British cycling writer on his first view of the Giant when he wrote:
"And suddenly, there, in what seems like another world, miles away, rises a preposterously large mountain into a torn blue sky. Incalculably vast and aloof, a naked summit, white as monumental alabaster, the bloodless white of death, topped by a radio mast, like a steeple. so remote that I imagine any roads going up there must belong to different scales of tick tock and map measurements , with time locks between them and the road I am riding. A real ogre with winter in its hair, a gale screaming out of its throat and an extremely uncomfortable way of staring at a body. I didn't want to believe this was Ventoux, I couldn't believe this wasn't Ventoux. It was Ventoux alright"
The above pretty much sums up Mt Ventoux, the Giant of Provence.
Unlike the mountains of the Alps, this bastard stands aloof. We could not really see the summit of Madelaine because it was a part of many other Cols. There is nothing about Ventoux to disguise its height and gradient. It stands alone in all its frightening awesomeness.
This is not only an iconic mountain of Le Tour, but an iconic mountain of the world of cycling.
It is said that until you conquer the fear of Ventoux, you cannot call yourself a real cyclist.
Our band of 7 cyclists are now 'real'.
Phil H said " this is the ultimate cycling challenge - nothing comes close
Mick W said on completion of the climb - " Ventoux is relentless but at the same time rewarding"
Damian's comments were " the achievement of the group as a whole is a testament to the group but I was not prepared for the incredible vista as we emerged from the forest with 6 k's to go
Peter has been here before however on the 2006 tour the accent was via the far easier route. He was pleased to have ascended by way of the much harder route out of Bedoin and said he "took much satisfaction from seeing the pleasure of the group passing the much harder roads from Bedoin".
After the extreme challenge of Madelaine a few days ago, it was inevitable that comparisons would be drawn between the two climbs.
Craig considered Ventoux to be easier while Phil thought it far, far tougher. Colin wants to do Madelaine again in fine weather before deciding whereas Damian believes they are both bastards.
Mt Ventoux is a famous climb for cyclists. We want to test ourselves on her slopes. Today, the winds had dropped to an horrific level of only 58 kph. Yesterday it was 100 kph. Since when has 58kph been easy? But Ventoux is different
We were fortunate that there was a fine weather opportunity to allow us reasonable access. In planning the 2010 route, Peter and Greg M were keen to ascend the mountain from the more exposed and difficult starting point of Bedoin and pleasingly, this proved to be possible.
Peter and Damian crossed the summit literally a spoke distance apart followed by Colin, Ern, Craig, Phil and Mick. There were two heroes today with Mick and Phil dragging their 100 kg bodies up and over what is one of the most demanding climbs in the world of cycling.
A Mirage fighter from the French air force performed a fly by the mountain to celebrate our achievement. Spectacular.
There are photos in the gallery however be sure to catch the video of the day when it it released as we had two bike mounted cameras and one car camera catching all the action.
Tomorrow we head for Nimes however we are fully aware that it will take another significant mountain challenge to match the ecstasy that we all feel today. We cannot wait until the Pyrenees.
In summary, Mt Ventoux was the greatest day any of us have had on the bike and we have celebrated tonight as only Australian's can . (Rose and all)
If you have not yet done Ventoux, start planning now - because you must - from Bedoin
Sunday, September 26, 2010
Sense won out in day of disappointment
Today completes week one of the cycling content of the 2010 tour.
Our evening dinner included each of us outlining how we became involved in cycling which is after all, the commencement of the path which we came along to be here. Each participants' story was interesting and there was largely a common thread involved. Certainly, no one ever had any perception of doing what we are doing in France and Switzerland.
Dinner included local produce and local cooking styles including rabbit, beef, fish, ice creams and sorbets, goats cheese and local salads. A local red wine was also sampled and many readers will know about Peter's obsession with Rose. His rate of converting his colleagues to Rose is not nearly as high at it was during the 2006 edition of the tour. (but it is early days).
We awoke this morning feeling ok but certainly not as fresh as previous mornings due almost certainly to the extreme efforts of yesterday.
We were greeted by a cold, wet morning and after some investigation it was revealed that the forecast for Alp d'Huez was for freezing rain and snow.
We discussed the merits of attempting such a climb in these conditions. It was thought that climbing the famous Alp was certainly a possibility however descending in such conditions was insane - or at least an un-necessary risk.
With much collective disappointment, we cancelled our day on the saddle. With the weather closing in and forecast to stay the way it is for another 3 days, we decided to head straight for Orange where the forecast was much more encouraging and where the Monster of Provence awaited us - Mt Ventoux. (scheduled for Monday).
Six of us made the train connections to Orange while Craig travelled in the van with "Pants off Phil". We all arrived at the same time.
An exploration of the town of Orange followed including a late lunch and several coffees.
There is a big concert tonight in the old Roman Amphitheatre by 'French Pink Floyd'. Different.
We checked out the old Chapel and the local version of the Arc de Triomphe constructed over a period of 50 years and now stands proud after some 2000 years.
Alp d'Huez is perhaps the number one iconic ride for cyclists the world over so it was extremely disappointing to have to make the decision to by pass it. Howevcr, this simply means we are each determined to return to the Alps another time and to tame the beast.
It is however great to know that we have multiple nights in the same hotel and a chance to catch up on some washing etc and plan the details of the next week or so.
One week in, we are a happy, contented satisfied tour group looking forward with excitement to the next week. We are getting fitter, stronger, gaining in confidence and experience and even improving our collective abilities to communicate in the local language.
We really appreciate your feedback about our blog be it by way of comments on the site, e-mails or text messages. Thank you. We are also thrilled to learn we are sometimes a point of discussion at Brisbane post ride coffee.
Today is disappointing in many ways but such is life. It also continues the trend so far where each and every day is totally different from the ones before it.
Our evening dinner included each of us outlining how we became involved in cycling which is after all, the commencement of the path which we came along to be here. Each participants' story was interesting and there was largely a common thread involved. Certainly, no one ever had any perception of doing what we are doing in France and Switzerland.
Dinner included local produce and local cooking styles including rabbit, beef, fish, ice creams and sorbets, goats cheese and local salads. A local red wine was also sampled and many readers will know about Peter's obsession with Rose. His rate of converting his colleagues to Rose is not nearly as high at it was during the 2006 edition of the tour. (but it is early days).
We awoke this morning feeling ok but certainly not as fresh as previous mornings due almost certainly to the extreme efforts of yesterday.
We were greeted by a cold, wet morning and after some investigation it was revealed that the forecast for Alp d'Huez was for freezing rain and snow.
We discussed the merits of attempting such a climb in these conditions. It was thought that climbing the famous Alp was certainly a possibility however descending in such conditions was insane - or at least an un-necessary risk.
With much collective disappointment, we cancelled our day on the saddle. With the weather closing in and forecast to stay the way it is for another 3 days, we decided to head straight for Orange where the forecast was much more encouraging and where the Monster of Provence awaited us - Mt Ventoux. (scheduled for Monday).
Six of us made the train connections to Orange while Craig travelled in the van with "Pants off Phil". We all arrived at the same time.
An exploration of the town of Orange followed including a late lunch and several coffees.
There is a big concert tonight in the old Roman Amphitheatre by 'French Pink Floyd'. Different.
We checked out the old Chapel and the local version of the Arc de Triomphe constructed over a period of 50 years and now stands proud after some 2000 years.
Alp d'Huez is perhaps the number one iconic ride for cyclists the world over so it was extremely disappointing to have to make the decision to by pass it. Howevcr, this simply means we are each determined to return to the Alps another time and to tame the beast.
It is however great to know that we have multiple nights in the same hotel and a chance to catch up on some washing etc and plan the details of the next week or so.
One week in, we are a happy, contented satisfied tour group looking forward with excitement to the next week. We are getting fitter, stronger, gaining in confidence and experience and even improving our collective abilities to communicate in the local language.
We really appreciate your feedback about our blog be it by way of comments on the site, e-mails or text messages. Thank you. We are also thrilled to learn we are sometimes a point of discussion at Brisbane post ride coffee.
Today is disappointing in many ways but such is life. It also continues the trend so far where each and every day is totally different from the ones before it.
Saturday, September 25, 2010
Wind and Rain and Fire (and yes - snow)
Phil H - "The toughest day ever, anywhere, anytime"
Mick W - Toughest day on a bike since Around the Bay in a Day 2004 when paramedics were called to deal with cyclist hypothermia at Queenscliffe
Peter S - I've got nothing to say
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
But lets start at the beginning.
A latish breakfast by our standards was followed by a reasonably easy negotiation of some Annecy traffic to the bike path along the Western side of the Lake.
It was raining but not heavily and this gave us a different perspective of the beautiful lake to that we witnessed the previous afternoon.
We rolled along the path at a leisurely 20 kph and eventually leaving lake behind and following a series of bike paths almost all the way through to Albertville.
During this time, we each recorded our thoughts about what lay ahead - that is the 26 km accent of the Hors Category Col De La Madelaine. The comments recorded pre climb are:
Phil - Nervous to the extreme about what lays ahead. What am I doing here?
Ern - Confident I will do a good climb, just need to set my own pace and keep within my limits and all will be fine
Peter - I am sh--ing myself
Colin - This is the climb I have been fearing the most. It is very long and my first big climb
Mick - I see it as a scientific experiment. (Mick added some physics formulas that referred to gravity, mass and velocity)
Craig - I gained a lot of confidence from yesterday and am confident I will make it.
Damian - It is pretty scary but I am excited by the challenge and really looking forward to it.
At Albertville, we consumed the obligatory baguette lunch and rolled out of town just as the rain again started to fall.
From there, we had another 30 or so minutes to the start of the climb. At one stage, Peter dropped back to the writer to comment that virtually all conversational banter had ceased suggesting there was a degree of nervous expectation within our group.
It was also notable that we stopped for a greater than usual number of natural breaks during the day.
With little notice, we came to the foot of the climb and stopped to unload any weight we could from our bikes - pumps, saddle bags, lights etc. We also filled water bottles, most discarded helmets and in now clearing weather and 17 degrees, did away with rain jackets, arm and leg warmers and all but Ern and Mick discarded gillets. A number of us also took to the bushes with the appropriate tissue.
A photo stop at the climbs commencement followed and we were off.
The first 15 k's were generally accepted as being quite comfortable. The gradients for each kilometre are sign posted and with the exception of a 9% and an 8%, were between 2% and 6%. Most were even using the big chain ring from time to time.
At around kilometre 13 we became engulfed in quite thick fog but it was still comfortable and the temperature had not really fallen.
Between kilometres 15 and 16, we broke through the fog and were hit by a strong and cold head wind and increasingly heavy rain which subsequently almost became sleet.
In addition, from the 15 k to 24 k mark, the minimum gradient was 8% (and only one at 8%). However this does not tell the full story. When you reach a marker that says the next kilometre has an average gradient of 10% and you then travel the first 500 metres at around 2%, you are aware that the balance of the k is going to be a lot more than 10% and it repeatedly was like this.
The temperature dropped, the wind increased and the rain became heavier.
Damian was first up the Col shivering into the the bar at the summit desperate to warm up. He was followed by Peter who reported the difficulty of holding his handle bar due to the cold.
Ern followed soon after, then Colin and Craig.
Phil and Mick completed the climb in developing sleet and not long after, it began to snow - yes snow.
The temperature had dropped by 14 degrees before the Col was climbed.
It became impossible to squeeze water from a bottle or even take a gel out of a pocket such was the coldness of our hands.
We were shaking and distressed as we completed the climb and the bar did a roaring trade in coffee and tea.
Peter had 6 coffees in 35 minutes, Colin 8 teas as the surroundings turned to snow white.
With the weather worsening, we discussed what we would do. Our destination for the day was St Jean du Maurienne.
Damian was concerned that he was suffering the start of a virus so along with Phil H and Mick W, decided to take their bikes and join "Pants Off" in the van and seek accommodation in the nearer town of Le Chambre. Those remaining would wait out the weather and then proceed down the Col and join them (the weather seemed to be clearing). Between the making of this decision and the packing of the van, the snow fall increased and it was decided that descending the Col by bike any time soon was not going to be sensible. The 'Van Team' took all but two bikes and set off in search of accommodation while Ern, Colin, Peter and Craig ordered more coffee and tea to await the return of the van.
Peter used some unique negotiating methods to get us into the unused restaurant area and the warmth of a fire place and we rewarded the owner with the purchase of a local bottle of red.
Settled beside a warm fire, sipping a fine local red while the outside was turning to a classic scene of white was not a bad way of recalling an incredible day when 6 of us ascended our first ever French Alp and all of us succeeded on Madelaine for the first time (PB's as Damian had put it).
Another bottle of red passed and those left at the Col were almost disappointed when "Pants Off" returned to collect us.
As Peter said "This puts a whole new perspective on the notion of Friday afternoon drinks"
We all reunited at the Etap in Le Chambre and managed to find the only restaurant open for the night.
Today was monumental. The climb, the weather, the snow - everything about it is memorable.
We are almost a week into our cycling adventure and every day has been so totally different.
Just what tomorrow and the iconic Alp d'Huez will present us is any ones guess.
We just want it to come quickly.
Check the new photos in the gallery. Also the normal apology applies along with the news that Mick may have come up with an idea so this site will think it is being accessed from Australia. This means it can be written and corrected in English and not via French.
Mick W - Toughest day on a bike since Around the Bay in a Day 2004 when paramedics were called to deal with cyclist hypothermia at Queenscliffe
Peter S - I've got nothing to say
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
But lets start at the beginning.
A latish breakfast by our standards was followed by a reasonably easy negotiation of some Annecy traffic to the bike path along the Western side of the Lake.
It was raining but not heavily and this gave us a different perspective of the beautiful lake to that we witnessed the previous afternoon.
We rolled along the path at a leisurely 20 kph and eventually leaving lake behind and following a series of bike paths almost all the way through to Albertville.
During this time, we each recorded our thoughts about what lay ahead - that is the 26 km accent of the Hors Category Col De La Madelaine. The comments recorded pre climb are:
Phil - Nervous to the extreme about what lays ahead. What am I doing here?
Ern - Confident I will do a good climb, just need to set my own pace and keep within my limits and all will be fine
Peter - I am sh--ing myself
Colin - This is the climb I have been fearing the most. It is very long and my first big climb
Mick - I see it as a scientific experiment. (Mick added some physics formulas that referred to gravity, mass and velocity)
Craig - I gained a lot of confidence from yesterday and am confident I will make it.
Damian - It is pretty scary but I am excited by the challenge and really looking forward to it.
At Albertville, we consumed the obligatory baguette lunch and rolled out of town just as the rain again started to fall.
From there, we had another 30 or so minutes to the start of the climb. At one stage, Peter dropped back to the writer to comment that virtually all conversational banter had ceased suggesting there was a degree of nervous expectation within our group.
It was also notable that we stopped for a greater than usual number of natural breaks during the day.
With little notice, we came to the foot of the climb and stopped to unload any weight we could from our bikes - pumps, saddle bags, lights etc. We also filled water bottles, most discarded helmets and in now clearing weather and 17 degrees, did away with rain jackets, arm and leg warmers and all but Ern and Mick discarded gillets. A number of us also took to the bushes with the appropriate tissue.
A photo stop at the climbs commencement followed and we were off.
The first 15 k's were generally accepted as being quite comfortable. The gradients for each kilometre are sign posted and with the exception of a 9% and an 8%, were between 2% and 6%. Most were even using the big chain ring from time to time.
At around kilometre 13 we became engulfed in quite thick fog but it was still comfortable and the temperature had not really fallen.
Between kilometres 15 and 16, we broke through the fog and were hit by a strong and cold head wind and increasingly heavy rain which subsequently almost became sleet.
In addition, from the 15 k to 24 k mark, the minimum gradient was 8% (and only one at 8%). However this does not tell the full story. When you reach a marker that says the next kilometre has an average gradient of 10% and you then travel the first 500 metres at around 2%, you are aware that the balance of the k is going to be a lot more than 10% and it repeatedly was like this.
The temperature dropped, the wind increased and the rain became heavier.
Damian was first up the Col shivering into the the bar at the summit desperate to warm up. He was followed by Peter who reported the difficulty of holding his handle bar due to the cold.
Ern followed soon after, then Colin and Craig.
Phil and Mick completed the climb in developing sleet and not long after, it began to snow - yes snow.
The temperature had dropped by 14 degrees before the Col was climbed.
It became impossible to squeeze water from a bottle or even take a gel out of a pocket such was the coldness of our hands.
We were shaking and distressed as we completed the climb and the bar did a roaring trade in coffee and tea.
Peter had 6 coffees in 35 minutes, Colin 8 teas as the surroundings turned to snow white.
With the weather worsening, we discussed what we would do. Our destination for the day was St Jean du Maurienne.
Damian was concerned that he was suffering the start of a virus so along with Phil H and Mick W, decided to take their bikes and join "Pants Off" in the van and seek accommodation in the nearer town of Le Chambre. Those remaining would wait out the weather and then proceed down the Col and join them (the weather seemed to be clearing). Between the making of this decision and the packing of the van, the snow fall increased and it was decided that descending the Col by bike any time soon was not going to be sensible. The 'Van Team' took all but two bikes and set off in search of accommodation while Ern, Colin, Peter and Craig ordered more coffee and tea to await the return of the van.
Peter used some unique negotiating methods to get us into the unused restaurant area and the warmth of a fire place and we rewarded the owner with the purchase of a local bottle of red.
Settled beside a warm fire, sipping a fine local red while the outside was turning to a classic scene of white was not a bad way of recalling an incredible day when 6 of us ascended our first ever French Alp and all of us succeeded on Madelaine for the first time (PB's as Damian had put it).
Another bottle of red passed and those left at the Col were almost disappointed when "Pants Off" returned to collect us.
As Peter said "This puts a whole new perspective on the notion of Friday afternoon drinks"
We all reunited at the Etap in Le Chambre and managed to find the only restaurant open for the night.
Today was monumental. The climb, the weather, the snow - everything about it is memorable.
We are almost a week into our cycling adventure and every day has been so totally different.
Just what tomorrow and the iconic Alp d'Huez will present us is any ones guess.
We just want it to come quickly.
Check the new photos in the gallery. Also the normal apology applies along with the news that Mick may have come up with an idea so this site will think it is being accessed from Australia. This means it can be written and corrected in English and not via French.
Friday, September 24, 2010
Annecy Tonight
Thrills and Spills (but more thrills) Continued
We will start by expanding on what was a sensational day yesterday and again, apologies for the lack of a reasonable update yesterday. We even had a complaint that the blog was not updated by 8.00 am Brisbane time.
Yesterday was an incredible day.
We left St Grindolph headed for Gruyers however we actually stayed a little beyond Gruyers in the outskirts of Evian.
The first section of our journey was fabulous at the time as we had little knowledge of what was was to come. We rode through sensational undulating roads dropping in and out of small villages. It was as if we were at one with the road and the surrounds.
We maintained a steady but sensible pace and were hardly aware that we were actually gaining altitude with every kilometre.
And then it happened.
We came around a corner and over our left shoulder was Lake Geneva and the township of Vevey.
We then proceeded down largely traffic free roads for kilometre after kilometre with the most amazing scenes opening up in front of us. On one side we had the mountains in our sight while on the other was the expanding panama of the Lake.
It was switchback after switchback for 30 or more minutes as we progressed down the hill in a ride that none of us wanted to end. On and on we went as expanses of vineyard, grazing and pasture opened up below us. It was truly amazing and again, beyond the word smith abilities of the writer to describe in the confines of this article.
Phil H withdrew his Sunday comment and described the day as including his best ever decent. (one shot of the decent is in the gallery - taken while on the bike, on the move by Craig.
Craig has taken some amazing video footage and we look forward to sharing it all with you. His still shots are also amazing and it will only be through these that an understanding of the decent will be had.
We all were experiencing a combination of awe and excitement and then disappointment as we became aware the town was near.
Colin was in the lead position going into the decent and had the honour of leading us on this incredible ride. Less than 500 metres from the bottom, a call was made to slow it up and bunch up before the round about and unable to hear, Colin called back to seek clarification. In doing so, he caught a ridge then the curb and hit the ground - bad shoulder first. Shaken but not stirred, it was determined the only thing broken was his pride and rear derailleur plus some grazes and a torn jersey. (the torn precious tour jersey being the most painful of all - so far anyway).
Mick located a bike shop, "Pants off" collected the rider and bike and to the bike shop we all went.
The shop owner said it can be fixed but would take an hour or 3 so off we went to lunch.
Lunch was pizza (for 7) and a few beers in a little place on the shore of the lake. It was an amazing venue in an amazing place and the beers were justified by us only having 15 k's to go.
(see photo of pizza in the gallery)
Leaving Colin behind, the plan was for the rest to ride to our accommodation and then Ern was returning at 3pm in the van to ride back with Colin.
The main group rolled out of Vevey along a scenic bike path on the lake heading for Montreaux where they stopped at the venue of the famous jazz festival for photos with the statues of the musicians, checked out the re-built gambling house (refer Deep Purple's Smoke on the Water) and generally soaked up the atmosphere of the place.
Meanwhile, the part needed for Colin's bike was proving to be made out of 'unobtainiam' and a problem was emerging - the part could be here in 3 weeks, maybe. The full story is an entire separate article of its own and may well be recorded at another time. The bottom line is, taking old American bikes (his is circa 2003) with 9 speed Japanese gears is not a good idea if you have any expectation that a bike shop within 300 kilometers will have spare parts.
To cut a long story short, Colin is now riding a Jordan frame (http://www.jordan.ch/).
There is a lot more to this story and perhaps expanding on it at a post river ride coffee is in order.
Dinner was preceded by many beers (while waiting for Colin, Ern and "Pants Off" and a fabulous meal was enjoyed hosted by the husband and wife hotel owners.
This was a brilliant day. Switzerland must be included in Euro cycling trips. Perhaps the next trip should start on the Italy/Swiss border, cross Switzerland and end in France.
The only downside to the day is the uncertainty surrounding train transport. We are due for a short Thursday ride, a train trip and a loop of Lake Annecy however there is a strike planned for France and we may have to ride.
Thursday 23 September
The most glorious day greeted us in Evian this morning and a local breakfast of breads and home made jams was provided by our hosts.
Bags packed, van loaded and we set off with the first target being Thonon les-Bains where it was intended we would stop at the train station to determine of trains were in fact running.
If there were to be no trains, 2 of us would go in the van to Annecy with "Pants Off" and locate accommodation while the rest of us would keep riding. When accommodation was located and the bags un-packed, the van would come back and pick up another 2 cyclists and this would continue until we were all in Annecy for the loop around the lake (TdF time trial course in 2008 and 2006 tour group's last ride).
We travelled good, scenic, but at times busy roads often along the lake as we made our way through to Thonon les-Bains. We passed through Evian proper and Phil H vowed and declared he will be back in Evian. Now this might sound impressive to you however Phil H makes this comment several times every day and we can only assume he is re-locating to Switzerland and France.
We found the train station and discovered that limited services were running in the afternoon.
Without time to blink, Phil H and Mick W were 'cleats off, bikes in the van, and ready to go' hunt accommodation in Annecy. We were held up by a protest march in Thonon les-Bains in support of the strike and to get properly into the local spirit, "Pants Off' Joined the procession for 100 or so metres.
The van left with Phil H and Mick W while the rest mounted and set out.
Immediately, the road turned skywards. And immediately - not after a kilometers, or 200 metres but immediately.
And up we went for 'ever'. We did not actually realise it at the time but we were climbing the 1027 metre Col Jambaz. We left Thonon les Bains at about 10 am and stopped about half way up for lunch at around midday. This thing just went forever. We were probably doing 15 - 18 kph deliberately not trying to blow up so it was not super steep but it was truly relentless.
The decent that followed was seriously fun. Those who follow Le Tour may recall the chase by Cancellara in 2008 to catch the peleton after a flat when the cameras could not keep up with him. We don't know if this was the road but it was certainly very similar.
The only problem (in hindsight) was that we damn near dropped to sea level again.
It was then a case of setting up our working groups, putting our heads down and riding the flat roads for the next 25 k's largely into a stiffening head wind; we were fighting to push 20 kph.
And then.................. some 40 k's from Annecy, the road turned skywards again and were set about the accent of Col d'Eviers and its 810 metres. Our computers at this time were showing 31 degrees, water was running short and we were all very much aware of the huge day ahead tomorrow.
In the meantime, "Pants off" and his accommodation location team of Phil and Mick were desperately seeking out places to stay. There is a convention on in Annecy and virtually 2 rooms only left which they managed to secure at the Hotel De Alps. It is a cosy night indeed.
Back to the road. We crossed the Col in increasingly heavy traffic and all but completed the decent when the van arrived to pick us up. It was 5 bikes, Craig, Ern and Damian in the back and we were off.
We were hot, tired and relieved. It had been an incredibly hard but satisfying day and as we rolled to stop at the van, Peter announced his computer had just clicked over to 100 kph. (it was another 24 to the hotel)
The notable effort on the bike today was Craig. He suffered greatly on the first climb and then turned himself inside out to hold a wheel on the second climb. A fabulous effort on a day unlike any other he has had on the bike.
As we approached our accommodation, we were again delayed by another protest march.
We showered, changed and headed out to see the amazing old section of Annecy and to have a look at the lake. We then managed a quick beer or two followed by a much needed dinner at "le Beau Soleil" which is also the restaurant visited by the 2006 Tour Group after their final ride.
Tomorrow we take on our first Col of the Swiss Alps - the very long Col de la Madelaine. We are looking forward to this with varying degrees of trepidation - but we all have some trepidation.
Again, please forgive the spelling etc. When using the blogger site in France, you deal with French, so it is not straight forward. There are also some new photos in the gallery.
Thanks to everyone for the feedback and we are pleased to know we are a topic of Brisbane post ride conversation.
We will start by expanding on what was a sensational day yesterday and again, apologies for the lack of a reasonable update yesterday. We even had a complaint that the blog was not updated by 8.00 am Brisbane time.
Yesterday was an incredible day.
We left St Grindolph headed for Gruyers however we actually stayed a little beyond Gruyers in the outskirts of Evian.
The first section of our journey was fabulous at the time as we had little knowledge of what was was to come. We rode through sensational undulating roads dropping in and out of small villages. It was as if we were at one with the road and the surrounds.
We maintained a steady but sensible pace and were hardly aware that we were actually gaining altitude with every kilometre.
And then it happened.
We came around a corner and over our left shoulder was Lake Geneva and the township of Vevey.
We then proceeded down largely traffic free roads for kilometre after kilometre with the most amazing scenes opening up in front of us. On one side we had the mountains in our sight while on the other was the expanding panama of the Lake.
It was switchback after switchback for 30 or more minutes as we progressed down the hill in a ride that none of us wanted to end. On and on we went as expanses of vineyard, grazing and pasture opened up below us. It was truly amazing and again, beyond the word smith abilities of the writer to describe in the confines of this article.
Phil H withdrew his Sunday comment and described the day as including his best ever decent. (one shot of the decent is in the gallery - taken while on the bike, on the move by Craig.
Craig has taken some amazing video footage and we look forward to sharing it all with you. His still shots are also amazing and it will only be through these that an understanding of the decent will be had.
We all were experiencing a combination of awe and excitement and then disappointment as we became aware the town was near.
Colin was in the lead position going into the decent and had the honour of leading us on this incredible ride. Less than 500 metres from the bottom, a call was made to slow it up and bunch up before the round about and unable to hear, Colin called back to seek clarification. In doing so, he caught a ridge then the curb and hit the ground - bad shoulder first. Shaken but not stirred, it was determined the only thing broken was his pride and rear derailleur plus some grazes and a torn jersey. (the torn precious tour jersey being the most painful of all - so far anyway).
Mick located a bike shop, "Pants off" collected the rider and bike and to the bike shop we all went.
The shop owner said it can be fixed but would take an hour or 3 so off we went to lunch.
Lunch was pizza (for 7) and a few beers in a little place on the shore of the lake. It was an amazing venue in an amazing place and the beers were justified by us only having 15 k's to go.
(see photo of pizza in the gallery)
Leaving Colin behind, the plan was for the rest to ride to our accommodation and then Ern was returning at 3pm in the van to ride back with Colin.
The main group rolled out of Vevey along a scenic bike path on the lake heading for Montreaux where they stopped at the venue of the famous jazz festival for photos with the statues of the musicians, checked out the re-built gambling house (refer Deep Purple's Smoke on the Water) and generally soaked up the atmosphere of the place.
Meanwhile, the part needed for Colin's bike was proving to be made out of 'unobtainiam' and a problem was emerging - the part could be here in 3 weeks, maybe. The full story is an entire separate article of its own and may well be recorded at another time. The bottom line is, taking old American bikes (his is circa 2003) with 9 speed Japanese gears is not a good idea if you have any expectation that a bike shop within 300 kilometers will have spare parts.
To cut a long story short, Colin is now riding a Jordan frame (http://www.jordan.ch/).
There is a lot more to this story and perhaps expanding on it at a post river ride coffee is in order.
Dinner was preceded by many beers (while waiting for Colin, Ern and "Pants Off" and a fabulous meal was enjoyed hosted by the husband and wife hotel owners.
This was a brilliant day. Switzerland must be included in Euro cycling trips. Perhaps the next trip should start on the Italy/Swiss border, cross Switzerland and end in France.
The only downside to the day is the uncertainty surrounding train transport. We are due for a short Thursday ride, a train trip and a loop of Lake Annecy however there is a strike planned for France and we may have to ride.
Thursday 23 September
The most glorious day greeted us in Evian this morning and a local breakfast of breads and home made jams was provided by our hosts.
Bags packed, van loaded and we set off with the first target being Thonon les-Bains where it was intended we would stop at the train station to determine of trains were in fact running.
If there were to be no trains, 2 of us would go in the van to Annecy with "Pants Off" and locate accommodation while the rest of us would keep riding. When accommodation was located and the bags un-packed, the van would come back and pick up another 2 cyclists and this would continue until we were all in Annecy for the loop around the lake (TdF time trial course in 2008 and 2006 tour group's last ride).
We travelled good, scenic, but at times busy roads often along the lake as we made our way through to Thonon les-Bains. We passed through Evian proper and Phil H vowed and declared he will be back in Evian. Now this might sound impressive to you however Phil H makes this comment several times every day and we can only assume he is re-locating to Switzerland and France.
We found the train station and discovered that limited services were running in the afternoon.
Without time to blink, Phil H and Mick W were 'cleats off, bikes in the van, and ready to go' hunt accommodation in Annecy. We were held up by a protest march in Thonon les-Bains in support of the strike and to get properly into the local spirit, "Pants Off' Joined the procession for 100 or so metres.
The van left with Phil H and Mick W while the rest mounted and set out.
Immediately, the road turned skywards. And immediately - not after a kilometers, or 200 metres but immediately.
And up we went for 'ever'. We did not actually realise it at the time but we were climbing the 1027 metre Col Jambaz. We left Thonon les Bains at about 10 am and stopped about half way up for lunch at around midday. This thing just went forever. We were probably doing 15 - 18 kph deliberately not trying to blow up so it was not super steep but it was truly relentless.
The decent that followed was seriously fun. Those who follow Le Tour may recall the chase by Cancellara in 2008 to catch the peleton after a flat when the cameras could not keep up with him. We don't know if this was the road but it was certainly very similar.
The only problem (in hindsight) was that we damn near dropped to sea level again.
It was then a case of setting up our working groups, putting our heads down and riding the flat roads for the next 25 k's largely into a stiffening head wind; we were fighting to push 20 kph.
And then.................. some 40 k's from Annecy, the road turned skywards again and were set about the accent of Col d'Eviers and its 810 metres. Our computers at this time were showing 31 degrees, water was running short and we were all very much aware of the huge day ahead tomorrow.
In the meantime, "Pants off" and his accommodation location team of Phil and Mick were desperately seeking out places to stay. There is a convention on in Annecy and virtually 2 rooms only left which they managed to secure at the Hotel De Alps. It is a cosy night indeed.
Back to the road. We crossed the Col in increasingly heavy traffic and all but completed the decent when the van arrived to pick us up. It was 5 bikes, Craig, Ern and Damian in the back and we were off.
We were hot, tired and relieved. It had been an incredibly hard but satisfying day and as we rolled to stop at the van, Peter announced his computer had just clicked over to 100 kph. (it was another 24 to the hotel)
The notable effort on the bike today was Craig. He suffered greatly on the first climb and then turned himself inside out to hold a wheel on the second climb. A fabulous effort on a day unlike any other he has had on the bike.
As we approached our accommodation, we were again delayed by another protest march.
We showered, changed and headed out to see the amazing old section of Annecy and to have a look at the lake. We then managed a quick beer or two followed by a much needed dinner at "le Beau Soleil" which is also the restaurant visited by the 2006 Tour Group after their final ride.
Tomorrow we take on our first Col of the Swiss Alps - the very long Col de la Madelaine. We are looking forward to this with varying degrees of trepidation - but we all have some trepidation.
Again, please forgive the spelling etc. When using the blogger site in France, you deal with French, so it is not straight forward. There are also some new photos in the gallery.
Thanks to everyone for the feedback and we are pleased to know we are a topic of Brisbane post ride conversation.
Thursday, September 23, 2010
Apologies
We are struggling with Internet connections tonight and cannot post a significant update. A proper update will be done tomorrow.
This again was the best day of all.
Switzerland is incredible and thanks to Greg and Peter for including it on this years itinerary.
Today is now the "new" best decent Phil H has ever done.
The downside (apart from Internet) is that Colin came off at approximately 45 kph. The bike is damaged more than he is but some time at the local bike shop followed by a new frame and he is right to go.
We have a local train strike here tomorrow so a longer day than originally planned is now on the agenda.
Apologies for cutting this short but the internet here is a problem and thanks for everyone for the feed back about this blog (apart from Sheryl complaining about the spelling - you try dealing with a blog that only gives you German and French to deal with).
More - much more tomorrow.
In case you have not yet understood the message, Switzerland is a must for European cycling tours.
This again was the best day of all.
Switzerland is incredible and thanks to Greg and Peter for including it on this years itinerary.
Today is now the "new" best decent Phil H has ever done.
The downside (apart from Internet) is that Colin came off at approximately 45 kph. The bike is damaged more than he is but some time at the local bike shop followed by a new frame and he is right to go.
We have a local train strike here tomorrow so a longer day than originally planned is now on the agenda.
Apologies for cutting this short but the internet here is a problem and thanks for everyone for the feed back about this blog (apart from Sheryl complaining about the spelling - you try dealing with a blog that only gives you German and French to deal with).
More - much more tomorrow.
In case you have not yet understood the message, Switzerland is a must for European cycling tours.
Wednesday, September 22, 2010
Bike Path, a pass of the Alps and a wonderful destination
21 September 2010
Quote - Phil H at 2.25 pm today on the summit of Juan Pass (1508 metres)
"This is the greatest day I have ever had on the bike"
Quote - Mick W at 6.25 pm today at Gruyeres
"Today was the toughest and most picturesque day I have ever had on the bike"
And a great day it was too with all tour participants making their first ever accent of a Pass in the Swiss Alps.
But there was a great deal more to the day than the Juan Pass.
A perfect clear bright and sunny day greeted us this in Bern this morning and for the first time we had an 'all inclusive' breakfast deal. Craig was pleased as he claims to already be 'over' bakeries and bread while the coffee lovers managed a coffee before the departe (and Colin put away 5 cups of tea to make up for the absence of same the previous 4 days).
And it was a different departe too as it commenced with us carrying our bikes up some 30 stairs to prepare for the glorious roll down the kilometre of two to the centre of Bern. However there was somewhat of a delay. There is a bile shop at the top of the stairs and it happened to have a logo on the far right, top of the window of a certain bike brand from Germany (I think it is Germany). It was decided that a team photo taking in the shop. the tour team and the bike brand was essential and this should immediately be sent to a cycling colleague in Brisbane.
The attempt was abandoned after many attempts as it was only possible to include 2 of the required subjects on the photo opportunity without risking life an limb from passing traffic. (apologies Canyon Man - Robbo, but we certainly tried)
A quick check of on board computers told us it was 10 degrees as we rolled down the slope to Berne with the most glorious combination of the city buildings, bridge over the river and the Alps in the background greeted us. It was however a little embarrassing being overtaken by a local commuter in a single speed with a basket on the front. We figured she was younger than Ern but older than the rest of us.
Through the city we went and on to the bile path along the Aaire River with the first objective being Tohn. This was no ordinary bike path. From the path we were able to locate Antelopes on the opposite bank in the wild Bear path together with Boar and other animals (no Bears though). The path was often bitumen and often gravel but the scenery almost in-describable. This path tool us all the way through to Tohn, some 50 kilometres from our starting point. We went from beside the river, to fields, an airport and grazing cattle all with bells around their necks and the combined noise of the bells was as if they were cheering us on.
We had a delay in Tohn caused as Peter suffered a mechanical. His bike was perfect in every way however the prunes of the night before resulted in an altogether different mechanical.
Ern and Damian took advantage of the delay and visited the tourist office. Between the two of them, Mick and his GPS and advice from the Van driver "pants off Phil" (S not H) it was decided we could cut some 30 or so kilometres off our planed route.
We then proceeded to follow bike path 8 and this too was a combination of paved paths, gravel, glorious bridges over running streams and a secret defence establishment run by SAAB. We missed a turn off and found ourselves at the entrance of a defence facility of the Swiss Government operated by SAAB. It was obvious we should not be there and we high tailed it out of there while at the some time thinking there was perhaps some sensational footage of us captured on security cameras. Fortunately, we only had to retrace a kilometre or two and it was all down hill.
We lunched in a small township, refilled water bottles and set off to locate our short cut.
"Pants off Phil' (Phil S), our van driver, had gone straight to Gruyers to arrange accommodation and arranged to meet us back along the road at the base of a short climb. By this time it was 28 degrees and we were all keen to shed arm warmers and Gillet's. Phil had also driven back along our route and provided what we thought would be valuable (and accurate) information.
Phil's information went something like this:
Quote - Phil H at 2.25 pm today on the summit of Juan Pass (1508 metres)
"This is the greatest day I have ever had on the bike"
Quote - Mick W at 6.25 pm today at Gruyeres
"Today was the toughest and most picturesque day I have ever had on the bike"
And a great day it was too with all tour participants making their first ever accent of a Pass in the Swiss Alps.
But there was a great deal more to the day than the Juan Pass.
A perfect clear bright and sunny day greeted us this in Bern this morning and for the first time we had an 'all inclusive' breakfast deal. Craig was pleased as he claims to already be 'over' bakeries and bread while the coffee lovers managed a coffee before the departe (and Colin put away 5 cups of tea to make up for the absence of same the previous 4 days).
And it was a different departe too as it commenced with us carrying our bikes up some 30 stairs to prepare for the glorious roll down the kilometre of two to the centre of Bern. However there was somewhat of a delay. There is a bile shop at the top of the stairs and it happened to have a logo on the far right, top of the window of a certain bike brand from Germany (I think it is Germany). It was decided that a team photo taking in the shop. the tour team and the bike brand was essential and this should immediately be sent to a cycling colleague in Brisbane.
The attempt was abandoned after many attempts as it was only possible to include 2 of the required subjects on the photo opportunity without risking life an limb from passing traffic. (apologies Canyon Man - Robbo, but we certainly tried)
A quick check of on board computers told us it was 10 degrees as we rolled down the slope to Berne with the most glorious combination of the city buildings, bridge over the river and the Alps in the background greeted us. It was however a little embarrassing being overtaken by a local commuter in a single speed with a basket on the front. We figured she was younger than Ern but older than the rest of us.
Through the city we went and on to the bile path along the Aaire River with the first objective being Tohn. This was no ordinary bike path. From the path we were able to locate Antelopes on the opposite bank in the wild Bear path together with Boar and other animals (no Bears though). The path was often bitumen and often gravel but the scenery almost in-describable. This path tool us all the way through to Tohn, some 50 kilometres from our starting point. We went from beside the river, to fields, an airport and grazing cattle all with bells around their necks and the combined noise of the bells was as if they were cheering us on.
We had a delay in Tohn caused as Peter suffered a mechanical. His bike was perfect in every way however the prunes of the night before resulted in an altogether different mechanical.
Ern and Damian took advantage of the delay and visited the tourist office. Between the two of them, Mick and his GPS and advice from the Van driver "pants off Phil" (S not H) it was decided we could cut some 30 or so kilometres off our planed route.
We then proceeded to follow bike path 8 and this too was a combination of paved paths, gravel, glorious bridges over running streams and a secret defence establishment run by SAAB. We missed a turn off and found ourselves at the entrance of a defence facility of the Swiss Government operated by SAAB. It was obvious we should not be there and we high tailed it out of there while at the some time thinking there was perhaps some sensational footage of us captured on security cameras. Fortunately, we only had to retrace a kilometre or two and it was all down hill.
We lunched in a small township, refilled water bottles and set off to locate our short cut.
"Pants off Phil' (Phil S), our van driver, had gone straight to Gruyers to arrange accommodation and arranged to meet us back along the road at the base of a short climb. By this time it was 28 degrees and we were all keen to shed arm warmers and Gillet's. Phil had also driven back along our route and provided what we thought would be valuable (and accurate) information.
Phil's information went something like this:
- We faced an easy 3 k up hill
- There were a number of switchbacks on the hill
- 20 minutes should do it
- The temperature dropped considerably making it easier
It was with a great deal of optimism that we set off on what Mick described as "an easy version of 2 Coot-tha's."
Over the next hour we were to learn some very important facts:
Over the next hour we were to learn some very important facts:
- Phil S's ability to judge distance is no existent
- His definition of easy is unique to him and him only
- A few switchbacks rarely means there are 13
- His time horizons are his and his alone
- He has a problem with temperature
The 'hill' in question was the Juan Pass. It is 8 k's plus and climbs to 1508 metres. The easy sections (and there are few) appear to be equivalent to the hardest sections of the back of Mt Coot-tha and the temperature di d drop at the top - by 3 degrees to 25 degrees.
This was a bastard of a climb so early in our adventure.
Having said that, we all made it up with Peter and Damian fighting it out for the KoM points followed by Ern, Colin and Phil H.
There was mass exhilaration as each of us reached the peak and we celebrated with a photo when we all arrived.
We then kitted up for the decent and had a glorious high speed run on great roads with the dare devils in the group (Ern) reaching just on 80 kph (he said he was holding back too and could have gone quicker). We completed the 50 or so kilometre undulating run through townships and scenery that was out of this world to Gruyeres.
More importantly, the outlook on the accent was amazing. We all agreed (well all accept Craig) that Switzerland is the most amazingly beautiful country populated by very warm and friendly people. (Craig has a different view about the people) Unfortunately, it is beyond the ability of this author to describe the sheer beauty and variety of the sights we have witnessed today.
Phil H and Mick's word above reflect what we all feel and I think we are all of the opinion that exploring this country by bike means you see, feel, hear and smell things that are missed by all other means of transport. It truly challenges all of the senses. To a person we have said we will be coming back here and are staying longer than the 3 days allocated on this tour (anyone keen to come with us).
Our evening destination of the ancient township and castle of Gruyeres is stunning too and I urge the reader to go to the Route Map section of this blog, scroll down to today and read about the town for yourself.
We are staying at the Hostellerie Des Chevaliers which is about 50 or so metres down from the main town.
Before finishing, I must make mention of an inspirational happening today. Be assured, the climb up the Juan Pass was tough. One of our team members came away with virtually zero preparation due to the business pressures of the last 4 years. Peter and Damian cleared out and Ern, Colin Phil and Craig were quite close to each other completing the accent. The inspirational effort was by Mick W who was only a minute or so behind Craig and completed on zero preparation what was a hell of a hard climb. While he was last up the climb, he made it and was only a minute or so behind. An inspiration to us all.
We are a tired, happy and contented and well feed unit tonight (one of us had a local rabbit dish, 6 had deer and one perch).
Tomorrow is an easier day and we get to "all ride down from Montreuz on the Lake Geneva shoreline" (apologies to those who don't know the iconic Deep Purple number).
This was a bastard of a climb so early in our adventure.
Having said that, we all made it up with Peter and Damian fighting it out for the KoM points followed by Ern, Colin and Phil H.
There was mass exhilaration as each of us reached the peak and we celebrated with a photo when we all arrived.
We then kitted up for the decent and had a glorious high speed run on great roads with the dare devils in the group (Ern) reaching just on 80 kph (he said he was holding back too and could have gone quicker). We completed the 50 or so kilometre undulating run through townships and scenery that was out of this world to Gruyeres.
More importantly, the outlook on the accent was amazing. We all agreed (well all accept Craig) that Switzerland is the most amazingly beautiful country populated by very warm and friendly people. (Craig has a different view about the people) Unfortunately, it is beyond the ability of this author to describe the sheer beauty and variety of the sights we have witnessed today.
Phil H and Mick's word above reflect what we all feel and I think we are all of the opinion that exploring this country by bike means you see, feel, hear and smell things that are missed by all other means of transport. It truly challenges all of the senses. To a person we have said we will be coming back here and are staying longer than the 3 days allocated on this tour (anyone keen to come with us).
Our evening destination of the ancient township and castle of Gruyeres is stunning too and I urge the reader to go to the Route Map section of this blog, scroll down to today and read about the town for yourself.
We are staying at the Hostellerie Des Chevaliers which is about 50 or so metres down from the main town.
Before finishing, I must make mention of an inspirational happening today. Be assured, the climb up the Juan Pass was tough. One of our team members came away with virtually zero preparation due to the business pressures of the last 4 years. Peter and Damian cleared out and Ern, Colin Phil and Craig were quite close to each other completing the accent. The inspirational effort was by Mick W who was only a minute or so behind Craig and completed on zero preparation what was a hell of a hard climb. While he was last up the climb, he made it and was only a minute or so behind. An inspiration to us all.
We are a tired, happy and contented and well feed unit tonight (one of us had a local rabbit dish, 6 had deer and one perch).
Tomorrow is an easier day and we get to "all ride down from Montreuz on the Lake Geneva shoreline" (apologies to those who don't know the iconic Deep Purple number).
Finally, another quote this time from our van driver, Phil S
"You fellows worked so hard getting up that hill you will be slicing tap washers from your
butts tonight".
No one is quite sure just what this means but we are sure it is appropriate (or not).
For the third time, I seek your understanding of the late hour and the struggle of a spell checker on the site that only operates in German. There are a few photos from today in the gallery page.
Tuesday, September 21, 2010
Champagne and Switzerland
21 September 2010
Lets begin with the end of the day as the author sits in the 'computer room' of a rather old and quaint hotel about 10 minutes walk from the centre of Bern, Switzerland.
Naturally, all but one of us had various versions of veal this evening in an outdoor restaurant near the centre of the City. The service was superb and the food excellent with friendly service.
From a language viewpoint, it has actually been difficult transitioning from French to German and somewhat of a surprise that in this area of Switzerland German is preferred over French.
But back now to the day that was.
This turned out to be a spectacular day indeed.
We departed Epernay at about 7.15 am in a clear but cold environment.
We ventured to the house of Moet Chandon for photos and spent 10 minutes chatting to a couple from Newcastle, NSW.
From there we wound our way out of Epernay proper to spend the next couple of hours on very quiet, undulating road through beautiful valleys, forests and villages.
Is there any better aroma than the small of fermenting, high quality champagne.
Breakfast was at a small bakery in a tiny town followed by a long upward pass through an amazing forest.
The scenery on both sides of the road down the valleys and up to the hills with the ever present champagne vines was breathtaking and we don't think we will ever get sick of riding through the quaint and quiet towns along the way.
Our ultimate destination today was Bern in Switzerland and this involved us making a TGV connection by a certain time.
It was getting a little tight for time meaning that for about 40 minutes we transitioned from wide eyed tourists to hard core cycling machines and hammered the road for the station. With some downward gradients, tail winds and speeds of 60 kph plus we made the station with minutes to spare. A quick rush to locate passports followed only to discover we had a station attendant who had less knowledge of out language than we had of his. Fortunately, he located an English speaking colleague and the deal was done.
It was then a rapid change of clothes, bikes and bags in the van and back to catch the train, which was now listed as being delayed by 30 minutes.
While most of us waited, Mick acted as navigator for Phil on an 8 hour drive to Bern.
Our first leg was to Strasbourg where we caught a connection to Basle for a further connection to Bern.
All went well at Strasbourg. Not so for Basle.
We were travelling along chatting, editing photos and generally solving the problems of the world. The train stopped at various stations so we didn't pay much attention on this particular stop until two rail staff started walking through the train collecting rubbish. We dutifully handed over our rubbish when Peter asked Phil H what station we were at - answer Basle.
Computer were packed and we were off rapidly along platform 2 trying to locate the platform for the Bern connection. When we did find the board for train schedules, it said 'Platform 9 at 4.27 pm'. It was now 4.24 pm
It was a run through a very busy station, up and down escalators only to hear the whistle sounding on Platform 7 for the departure and doors were closing.
Craig was leading the run and managed to put his arm in the door some 6 inches before it closed. Peter was next to arrive and between them the door was forced open and the rest of us piled in.
A very close call indeed.
One of the fascinating things as we moved towards Switzerland was the changing architecture. It is quite stark.
Bern is quite something. It has the longest trams and impressively, a huge bike commuter population.
The main commercial area is quite spectacular and very beautiful with its cobbled street and period buildings. It could be a movie set.
Be sure to join us tomorrow for a 136 km ride through the valleys of this region of Switzerland as we track the border South towards the Alps.
(again - spelling apologies - it is late and the spell check function is German)
Lets begin with the end of the day as the author sits in the 'computer room' of a rather old and quaint hotel about 10 minutes walk from the centre of Bern, Switzerland.
Naturally, all but one of us had various versions of veal this evening in an outdoor restaurant near the centre of the City. The service was superb and the food excellent with friendly service.
From a language viewpoint, it has actually been difficult transitioning from French to German and somewhat of a surprise that in this area of Switzerland German is preferred over French.
But back now to the day that was.
This turned out to be a spectacular day indeed.
We departed Epernay at about 7.15 am in a clear but cold environment.
We ventured to the house of Moet Chandon for photos and spent 10 minutes chatting to a couple from Newcastle, NSW.
From there we wound our way out of Epernay proper to spend the next couple of hours on very quiet, undulating road through beautiful valleys, forests and villages.
Is there any better aroma than the small of fermenting, high quality champagne.
Breakfast was at a small bakery in a tiny town followed by a long upward pass through an amazing forest.
The scenery on both sides of the road down the valleys and up to the hills with the ever present champagne vines was breathtaking and we don't think we will ever get sick of riding through the quaint and quiet towns along the way.
Our ultimate destination today was Bern in Switzerland and this involved us making a TGV connection by a certain time.
It was getting a little tight for time meaning that for about 40 minutes we transitioned from wide eyed tourists to hard core cycling machines and hammered the road for the station. With some downward gradients, tail winds and speeds of 60 kph plus we made the station with minutes to spare. A quick rush to locate passports followed only to discover we had a station attendant who had less knowledge of out language than we had of his. Fortunately, he located an English speaking colleague and the deal was done.
It was then a rapid change of clothes, bikes and bags in the van and back to catch the train, which was now listed as being delayed by 30 minutes.
While most of us waited, Mick acted as navigator for Phil on an 8 hour drive to Bern.
Our first leg was to Strasbourg where we caught a connection to Basle for a further connection to Bern.
All went well at Strasbourg. Not so for Basle.
We were travelling along chatting, editing photos and generally solving the problems of the world. The train stopped at various stations so we didn't pay much attention on this particular stop until two rail staff started walking through the train collecting rubbish. We dutifully handed over our rubbish when Peter asked Phil H what station we were at - answer Basle.
Computer were packed and we were off rapidly along platform 2 trying to locate the platform for the Bern connection. When we did find the board for train schedules, it said 'Platform 9 at 4.27 pm'. It was now 4.24 pm
It was a run through a very busy station, up and down escalators only to hear the whistle sounding on Platform 7 for the departure and doors were closing.
Craig was leading the run and managed to put his arm in the door some 6 inches before it closed. Peter was next to arrive and between them the door was forced open and the rest of us piled in.
A very close call indeed.
One of the fascinating things as we moved towards Switzerland was the changing architecture. It is quite stark.
Bern is quite something. It has the longest trams and impressively, a huge bike commuter population.
The main commercial area is quite spectacular and very beautiful with its cobbled street and period buildings. It could be a movie set.
Be sure to join us tomorrow for a 136 km ride through the valleys of this region of Switzerland as we track the border South towards the Alps.
(again - spelling apologies - it is late and the spell check function is German)
Monday, September 20, 2010
Let the Ride Begin - 19 September 2010
Officially, the first bike session of this years tour took place on Saturday afternoon with a slow and steady wind through the afternoon traffic of Paris to the Eiffel Tower for some photo opportunities.
Upon arrival at the Tower, we were immediately approach by a group of women asking us questions about where we're from etc. It transpired that they were at the Tower awaiting the arrival of a cycling group riding from London to Paris to raise funds for Alzheimer's Disease. They were meeting their husbands who were part of a 70 cyclist group and they assumed we were the leading group (naturally).
They were very interested in what we were doing.
We also were approached by several other individuals asking about our jerseys and two ladies from Atlanta Georgia engaged two of us in a longer conversation which included discussion about the time one of them spent in Brisbane in 2000.
Photos taken, we moved off and wound our way back to the hotel .
The impact our appearance was having was remarkable and it seems out tour jerseys are really quite striking.
We experienced applause from bystanders, high fives from pedestrians and questions at the majority of red lights we stopped at. And Paris must be the worlds capital of traffic lights.
We then changed, "did beers" and dined at the Pyrenees Restaurant where we were joined by a local who is a business associate of Mick's. It was wonderful having a local join us and he spent most of the night fielding our many questions.
It was back to our rooms then to prepare for the big day today.
The 2006 tour by Brisbane's finest commenced with a parade down the Champs-Elysees and two laps of the Arc de Triomphe. We considered this worth replicating and as such, to give birth to a tradition.
We assembled at 7 am ready to roll and Ern decided that a flat rear tyre was immediately in order. This was repaired and we were away.
Our two laps of the Arc completed, and Ern 'flated' again.
We started to make our way out of Paris via a quick breakfast stop and quickly discovered two things:
1. There are few similarities between road maps and actual roads.
2. There a few reasonable road signs
3. The traffic lights of Paris are frustrating
4 It is unlikely a road that ran East yesterday, was now running west.
It was a struggle and one made all the more so when we found ourselves on a 130 kph "A road" (but not before Ern again punctured)
This was a very scary 30 minutes or more and we only pulled off after nearly losing Craig in an "almost fall". It is a mystery how he kept the Cannondale upright.
We pulled off and ended up being helped by a local group of masters cyclist out for a training ride who helped us get back on to our intended route. ( see Route Map page of this blog).
We clocked 155 kilometers to Epernay in a most wonderful day. It was also a physically demanding day.
The scenery, roads, courtesy of drivers and warmth of weather coupled with the interest many locals showed in us to all provide us with a most special experience.
Mandatory evening beers on arrival were enjoyed by a happy, tired and very excited group and this continued over dinner, where of course we sampled the famed local produce. Epernay is after all, the centre of the universe when it comes to champagne.
A great day was had by all.
Tomorrow is as short day in the saddle followed by a train transfer to Switzerland.
(apologies for spelling etc - it is late)
Upon arrival at the Tower, we were immediately approach by a group of women asking us questions about where we're from etc. It transpired that they were at the Tower awaiting the arrival of a cycling group riding from London to Paris to raise funds for Alzheimer's Disease. They were meeting their husbands who were part of a 70 cyclist group and they assumed we were the leading group (naturally).
They were very interested in what we were doing.
We also were approached by several other individuals asking about our jerseys and two ladies from Atlanta Georgia engaged two of us in a longer conversation which included discussion about the time one of them spent in Brisbane in 2000.
Photos taken, we moved off and wound our way back to the hotel .
The impact our appearance was having was remarkable and it seems out tour jerseys are really quite striking.
We experienced applause from bystanders, high fives from pedestrians and questions at the majority of red lights we stopped at. And Paris must be the worlds capital of traffic lights.
We then changed, "did beers" and dined at the Pyrenees Restaurant where we were joined by a local who is a business associate of Mick's. It was wonderful having a local join us and he spent most of the night fielding our many questions.
It was back to our rooms then to prepare for the big day today.
The 2006 tour by Brisbane's finest commenced with a parade down the Champs-Elysees and two laps of the Arc de Triomphe. We considered this worth replicating and as such, to give birth to a tradition.
We assembled at 7 am ready to roll and Ern decided that a flat rear tyre was immediately in order. This was repaired and we were away.
Our two laps of the Arc completed, and Ern 'flated' again.
We started to make our way out of Paris via a quick breakfast stop and quickly discovered two things:
1. There are few similarities between road maps and actual roads.
2. There a few reasonable road signs
3. The traffic lights of Paris are frustrating
4 It is unlikely a road that ran East yesterday, was now running west.
It was a struggle and one made all the more so when we found ourselves on a 130 kph "A road" (but not before Ern again punctured)
This was a very scary 30 minutes or more and we only pulled off after nearly losing Craig in an "almost fall". It is a mystery how he kept the Cannondale upright.
We pulled off and ended up being helped by a local group of masters cyclist out for a training ride who helped us get back on to our intended route. ( see Route Map page of this blog).
We clocked 155 kilometers to Epernay in a most wonderful day. It was also a physically demanding day.
The scenery, roads, courtesy of drivers and warmth of weather coupled with the interest many locals showed in us to all provide us with a most special experience.
Mandatory evening beers on arrival were enjoyed by a happy, tired and very excited group and this continued over dinner, where of course we sampled the famed local produce. Epernay is after all, the centre of the universe when it comes to champagne.
A great day was had by all.
Tomorrow is as short day in the saddle followed by a train transfer to Switzerland.
(apologies for spelling etc - it is late)
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